Back blade / landscape rake advice

[GrumpyFarmer]

Team,

looking for some advice from first hand product knowledge.

I am beginning a search to add a landscape rake. Main use will be seedbed preparation, rake pasture grass, maybe leaves (not sure that will work), driveway grooming, storm debris clean up

Before we get to that, I have a RBT3596 (landpride back blade) which happens to have two functions of hydraulics (not sure that is relevant) and I am wondering if anyone has swapped out a rake for the blade on the frame of the implement? Of it is possible to do simply? To me it looks like one bolt holding the blade and on, but I really don’t know. When I look for the similar landscape rake on LP site I don’t find much as it appears to be discontinued.

0. so first question has anyone done this? I’d like the function of a rake without buying the whole implement, but not sure it possible or as simple as I think it should be. Please advise.

Then my next topic if option above not possible or reasonable, then I wonder if I buy a new rake implement:

1. Is a rake more useful on a B or an MX, or really no difference just preference of machine? Why? I’ve not used and I wonder would it get more action on a B or MX?

2. In my mind I think I want on the MX and use the hydraulics which the MX has rear remotes. When you use the rake are you routinely changing the offset and / or angle and would the hydraulics be helpful in using the rake? (I am imagining I would be adjusting based on what I see behind me, but I never used one?)

2. Gauge wheels to me seem like a no brainer? Any reason not to get them? (I understand they are not cheap, but seem like functional/helpful.

3. Width. Should a rake be sized like a blade? (I assume minimum is cover the tracks, but I think I would want to that if angled as well, correct?)

Thank you in advance.

 

[Spam Bot]

I have a LandPride landscape rake with a grader blade built into the landscape rake. It drops down when you need the grader blade option. You are correct; you could swap a landscape rake with your grader blade, but where would you find only the rake part? I have the manual rake, and when I find the time to add the rear hydraulics to my tractor, I will convert it to a power angle rake.
If you want to take your field preparation seriously and get them ready for seeding, consider investing in a LandPride Power Rake. I believe they are priced just North of $10,000! If it weren't for the price, I would already have one. Last fall I saw a 60-inch in like-new condition for $7,000 on Facebook Marketplace, and I gave it a thought for a minute or two.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

i believe I can buy most any part of an assembly/implement I need thru my dealer…so I believe I can order the rake or the rake assembly. (The parts manual online has parts diagram…you can even order the frames painted or unpainted or pick your color…I did that with an implement I built)

 

[Old Machinist]

I wouldn't consider a landscape rake for grass or leaves. It will scalp every time you go over a bump, divot, or hole. For leaves it's hard to beat a sweeper. I've had mixed results with gauge wheels and no longer use mine but they have a purpose in certain situations. If your land is perfectly smooth you may be able to control depth better with them but I can't get mine to remain smooth for 2 months after getting it that way.

For seed bed preparation a tiller would be my choice.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I too thought that "gauge wheels" would be a "no brainer", however if memory serves me, it was about a 50/50 split when people responded to the last thread where I remember reading about them.

They are "stupid expensive" as well. I don't normally "bitch" about the price of things, (except for fast food lately) but for what those wheels are, I would be "rolling my own" for that kind of dough.

My opinion, in regard to the width, would be to get one that would cover your tracks when angled.

I can' think of a scenario where it would be more advantageous to have a "skinnier" one that would not cover your track when angled.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

I wouldn't consider a landscape rake for grass or leaves. It will scalp every time you go over a bump, divot, or hole. For leaves it's hard to beat a sweeper. I've had mixed results with gauge wheels and no longer use mine but they have a purpose in certain situations. If your land is perfectly smooth you may be able to control depth better with them but I can't get mine to remain smooth for 2 months after getting it that way.

For seed bed preparation a tiller would be my choice.

Good day.

thank you for input.

I think when I say rake grass, I mean pasture area I cut with a brush hog 6-10” high after I cut it. I think I should be able to set slightly off ground but also if I tear grass out in pasture I am not too worried. It’s more that I want to gather then compost.

for seed bed preparation my thought is after seed spread to drag/scratch and get some dirt over the seed.

thanks for thoughts.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

I too thought that "gauge wheels" would be a "no brainer", however if memory serves me, it was about a 50/50 split when people responded to the last thread where I remember reading about them.

They are "stupid expensive" as well. I don't normally "bitch" about the price of things, (except for fast food lately) but for what those wheels are, I would be "rolling my own" for that kind of dough.

My opinion, in regard to the width, would be to get one that would cover your tracks when angled.

I can' think of a scenario where it would be more advantageous to have a "skinnier" one that would not cover your track when angled.

I asked my dealer for some pricing on different options and also asked if I can just swap out the blade for a rake (still waiting for confirmation on this point)…but as far as the wheels I don’t think you used the right emoji…but I do think I would like the functionality.

 

[D2Cat]

GrumpyFarmer, if you have some fabbing skills you can make a real good rake for grass or driveway gravel. I used the teeth from an old round baler. Made a frame to mount them to, and put 3pt arms on it. Four rows of teeth, and they are all staggered make a nice rake. I built this one over 30 years ago and use it frequently. Pull this down the driveway slow and it looks like you had 10 tons of rock delivered. I've had neighbors stop (when they drive by and I'm working my driveway), watch and ask if I will do theirs.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

GrumpyFarmer, if you have some fabbing skills you can make a real good rake for grass or driveway gravel. I used the teeth from an old round baler. Made a frame to mount them to, and put 3pt arms on it. Four rows of teeth, and they are all staggered make a nice rake. I built this one over 30 years ago and use it frequently. Pull this down the driveway slow and it looks like you had 10 tons of rock delivered. I've had neighbors stop (when they drive by and I'm working my driveway), watch and ask if I will do theirs.
View attachment 159229 View attachment 159230

That looks pretty functional and simple.

Have you ever used that to try to rake storm debris (branches and limbs)? Does that see to close to the tires for limbs/branches?

 

[D2Cat]

I originally built the rake to de-thatch a field that became my yard. It worked real good in the grass/thatch build up. I had windrows like I was baling hay. Second year I couldn't gather much of anything on the grass/field I had planted. That's when I tried it for other chores, and discovered the use as a gravel rake.

I have a rock rake I use for sticks, pine cones etc. and it works fine so I never tried the (baler) rake tooth. The rock rake does work with many different debris, and the top link adjustment is what makes the difference. Extend the top link and you get aggressive angle to pick up just about anything you drive over. Shorten the top link and it will slide over some material and comb what's under it. Adjust it in between to get the job you want done.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

I originally built the rake to de-thatch a field that became my yard. It worked real good in the grass/thatch build up. I had windrows like I was baling hay. Second year I couldn't gather much of anything on the grass/field I had planted. That's when I tried it for other chores, and discovered the use as a gravel rake.

I have a rock rake I use for sticks, pine cones etc. and it works fine so I never tried the (baler) rake tooth. The rock rake does work with many different debris, and the top link adjustment is what makes the difference. Extend the top link and you get aggressive angle to pick up just about anything you drive over. Shorten the top link and it will slide over some material and comb what's under it. Adjust it in between to get the job you want done.

I agree your thoughts.

One consideration I can’t get over is I think I would like the ability to offset the rake and be able to drive down a tree line without scuffing the paint. (But I like the simplicity of your implement.) and then at that point, meaning if using offset/tilt, I think I would want to use the hydraulics, but I don’t that is common use or not….i think I would use it.

 

[dirtydeed]

Team,

looking for some advice from first hand product knowledge.

I am beginning a search to add a landscape rake. Main use will be seedbed preparation, rake pasture grass, maybe leaves (not sure that will work), driveway grooming, storm debris clean up

Before we get to that, I have a RBT3596 (landpride back blade) which happens to have two functions of hydraulics (not sure that is relevant) and I am wondering if anyone has swapped out a rake for the blade on the frame of the implement? Of it is possible to do simply? To me it looks like one bolt holding the blade and on, but I really don’t know. When I look for the similar landscape rake on LP site I don’t find much as it appears to be discontinued.

0. so first question has anyone done this? I’d like the function of a rake without buying the whole implement, but not sure it possible or as simple as I think it should be. Please advise.

Then my next topic if option above not possible or reasonable, then I wonder if I buy a new rake implement:

1. Is a rake more useful on a B or an MX, or really no difference just preference of machine? Why? I’ve not used and I wonder would it get more action on a B or MX?

2. In my mind I think I want on the MX and use the hydraulics which the MX has rear remotes. When you use the rake are you routinely changing the offset and / or angle and would the hydraulics be helpful in using the rake? (I am imagining I would be adjusting based on what I see behind me, but I never used one?)

2. Gauge wheels to me seem like a no brainer? Any reason not to get them? (I understand they are not cheap, but seem like functional/helpful.

3. Width. Should a rake be sized like a blade? (I assume minimum is cover the tracks, but I think I would want to that if angled as well, correct?)

Thank you in advance.

1. Can't answer that one. Obviously, the rake will be more expensive for the MX in size alone.

2. I don't change it up all that much. My rake (EA) does have angle and offset capabilities. Pretty simple to pull the pins and get it into the position that I want.

and the second no. 2 (lol). I got the gauge wheels, yes, they are salty but to me they make the rake easier to use...they also come in handy when running the rake in reverse for smoothing (I don't bother spinning the rake 180 degrees and pull forward...I simply back up with the wheels on the ground.

width, definitely wider than rear wheels when angled.

Rake jobs...

 

[old and tired]

I'll add 2 cents to this, in 2005 before Craig's List went down the crapper... in eastern NC, you could pickup blades cheap. I got 2 at $50 each and nice one for $250 and another one for $100, all 6 footers. I turned one into a rake, made it a 7 footer, with tines at either 1.5" or 2" apart (can check tomorrow).

It does a great job on the gravel driveway keeping it looking nice... no gauge wheels. It's like a box blade since the length of the toplink will determine how aggressively it digs in. I have dragged it across the field after brush hogging. Collects a lot organic matter but I rather have it decompose in place...

I did just bolt on a 4" x 0.25" x 84" angle iron, the angle wasn't perfect but I could make it work with my hydraulic toplink (had to shorten it all the way in to not be really aggressive.)

The problem with the 7' is I had to raise it up as high as I can to spin it around or else it would hit the tire. So with the smaller tractor that might be a problem... it wasn't done but a couple of times.

 

[Shawn T. W]

Have you considered a pine straw rake?

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...e-answer-is-yes-but-i-can-only-get-one.49332/

May be too light weight for storm cleanup, or driveway help, depending on how much is involved ...

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

I have but sort of like you mentioned I sort of question is that the right tool for me to clean up after trees/branches fall.