B7510

[Buckcop]

I have taken my tractor to 2 different kubota dealer for repair. It started not starting. engine turns over but not getting fuel. solenoid clicks when key is turned on but no start. first dealer checked all fuses, safety switches and ignition switch, all were good. He replaced solenoid but still no start. It will start and run perfectly with no solenoid in tractor but have to kill it with the kill lever on the side of the injector. Never could find the problem. I took it to another dealer and he said it ran with solenoid off so,he replaced it with a new one and again it would not start. solenoid fully retracts when the key is turned on but when bolted back on tractor it will not start. so far I have spent over $400.00 and have a string to kill the tractor. any ideas or know of anyone I can call to trouble shoot the problem. Need help as I don't what to do now. By passing the solenoid also by passes all the safety switches, which is not good.

 

[Billdog350]

If they've replaced two solenoids, sure sounds like the issue is not the solenoid. I would look upstream at electrical. Put a test light on the lead to the solenoid and see when it goes out. You could have a bad relay (high probability), failing ignition switch, or bad ground somewhere. Issue sounds electrical. Many dealers are bad at troubleshooting electrical. The tech's are trained on how to replace parts, but not how to figure out which ones are bad.

Good luck and report back on which item you needed to replace to fix the issue. For $400, you can buy a new ignition switch and all the relays and solenoids.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

First thing to do is get a WSM (Workshop Service Manual) for your tractor.
It will help with wiring and finding out where parts are.
#1 Sounds like it could have a spring broken, missing, or off in the throttle section of the injection pump, fairly easy to inspect and repair with the manual.
#2 if all the springs are in place it could be the relay that controls the solenoid, you can check that by removing the solenoid, use a jumper wire to ground the case of the solenoid and find out if #1 the solenoid retracts or extends with the key on or cranking and then remains that way when the engine is running.

 

[Greenhead]

I concur with the electrical issue. Check grounds on part. Also check key switch. Run a test ground from a good ground source to the part and switch. Also check battery connections. When a ground is lost weird things can happen... They dealers seemed to be focused on the positive side only.

 

[Buckcop]

Relay have been changed and where not found bad. Solenoid allways clicks when key is turned on and the rod retracts all the way in. It also lets the rod extend when the key is turned off. Tractor will start and run wilth solenoid off. when held in position on injector pump tractor will keep running until the key is turned off but it will not restart unless you remove the solenoid. I am leaning toward something in the injector pump fuel rail as the problem. Also a separate ground wire was wired straight to the solenoid and still did not work so I do not think it is going to be electrical. will get it back to the dealer in dec because I need it to much now. I felt inside the injector pump and the fuel rod seems as smooth as butter when I pushed it in. I can kill the engine with my finger by pushing the fuel rail rod in where the solenoid attaches.

 

[mendonsy]

Is it possible that the mounting bracket for the solenoid got bent somehow?? That might prevent the solenoid from pulling the Shutoff all the way open.

 

[Buckcop]

the way the solenoid mounts there is no way it could be bent. Tried 2 different new solenoids and both did the same thing.

 

[mendonsy]

the way the solenoid mounts there is no way it could be bent. Tried 2 different new solenoids and both did the same thing.

OK ..... So what is different between manually opening the fuel shutoff and the way that the solenoid does it. There has to be something different if it always runs when you open it manually and never runs when the solenoid does it.

This type of issue make me really glad that I have a B7500 without all the electronic stuff!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Follow what I said, pull off the solenoid and ground the case and start and run the tractor watching the solenoid, It could be a 2 stage solenoid on the tractor, one coil pulls and second coil holds (all in one case), The click you hear, could be it pulling in but when you go to run it doesn't hold and drops out.

 

[Buckcop]

It is a 2 stage solenoid. I have done what you said and it holds the rod all he way in when off the tractor and grounded with a wire to the frame. I am beginning to thing that it is not getting a complete ground when I mount it back to the injector pump. I think it is getting just enough ground to make it click but not enough to pull the rod all the way back in. I put a jumper wire from on of the injector mount bolts and ran it to a bolt where the injector pump mounts to the engine nut it still would not crank. It would click and you could feel movement inside the solenoid. I think I should have run he wire to the battery to make sure it had a complete ground. when I have time to take it back to the dealer I am going to ask the mechanic to try this. I would do it myself but I cut some of the rod off my solenoid and remounted so that I could be using my tractor. This is the only thing that it could possibly be. If it was the fuel rail it would not start even with the solenoid off. I have used it over a dozen times since cutting the solenoid rod off and remounting it back on tractor. the string works fine to kill it it is just not safe since it by passes all the safety switches.

 

[gcroix]

So what was the outcome? I'm having similar problems with my B7510.