B7100 Piston Installation

[Schmotown]

Pull the idle aparatis, just pull it using the nut closest the block.

View attachment 161812

On the fuel cam have you removed the bearing keeper?

View attachment 161813

Okay, I'll remove it by the nut.

Yes, the bearing keeper is removed and the cam slides forward until the rear bearing comes in contact with the bore at the front of the housing. Probably just a snug fit?

Thanks, Larry.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes very snug fit.

 

[Schmotown]

Yes very snug fit.

Okay, thanks again.

 

[Schmotown]

I have my B7100 engine completely disassembled and I could use some advice. Attached are the pics.

After removing the crank I found this small seal laying in the block. I assume its the seal for where the output shaft inserts into the rear of the crankshaft. I have a new seal but not sure of its orientation. I think the face shown in the pic faces towards the block?

Best method for removing the bronze bushing in the back of the crank? Blind hole bearing puller?

Lastly, the wear sleeve on the rear of the crank. The wear pattern cannot be felt with a fingernail. Is it normally replaced? If so it seems that it could be flipped over and reused but I don't know. If it should be replaced is it removed with a bearing puller? I looked at the parts manual and I don't see an o-ring for a seal to the crank. Loctite?

Thanks for your help.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have my B7100 engine completely disassembled and I could use some advice. Attached are the pics.

After removing the crank I found this small seal laying in the block. I assume its the seal for where the output shaft inserts into the rear of the crankshaft. I have a new seal but not sure of its orientation. I think the face shown in the pic faces towards the block?

Best method for removing the bronze bushing in the back of the crank? Blind hole bearing puller?

Lastly, the wear sleeve on the rear of the crank. The wear pattern cannot be felt with a fingernail. Is it normally replaced? If so it seems that it could be flipped over and reused but I don't know. If it should be replaced is it removed with a bearing puller? I looked at the parts manual and I don't see an o-ring for a seal to the crank. Loctite?

Thanks for your help.

Sorry for the late reply just caught this.

Spring side out on that seal, it keeps dust out.
Bronze bushing removal, a tight fitting dowel, rod, or bolt.
Fill the space inside the bushing with grease then use the dowel or rod to drive the bushing out.

Yes you can flip the wear sleeve, if you don't feel a lip, I wouldn't bother.
I use a little RTV to seal it to the crank.

 

[Schmotown]

Sorry for the late reply just caught this.

Spring side out on that seal, it keeps dust out.
Bronze bushing removal, a tight fitting dowel, rod, or bolt.
Fill the space inside the bushing with grease then use the dowel or rod to drive the bushing out.

Yes you can flip the wear sleeve, if you don't feel a lip, I wouldn't bother.
I use a little RTV to seal it to the crank.

Thanks for the reply. I've polished the wear sleeve a bit and I'm going to leave it in place and I got the bronze bushing out. I'm sure I would have installed the seal backwards thinking it was keeping oil from leaking out!

I do have a question about removing the oil nipple that protrudes from the top of the block. I tried to remove it with heat and vise-grips before sending the block to the dealer for new liners. The mechanic said they will leave the nipple in place as they won't be taking any material off the top of the block as the new liners will be flush with the top of the block. The nipple has to come out when I get the block home as I chewed it up a bit when trying to remove it.

I'm thinking of filling the cavity where the oil sender screws into the block with grease to catch the chips as the oil sender tapping is just below the oil nipple and then drilling the oil nipple out unless someone has a better method. When I get the old nipple out should I Loctite it in place or is it purely a press fir? Thanks in advance.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It really doesn't matter if it's chewed up a bit, the seal surface is the o-ring on the bottom and the seal surfaces are the block and the head.
But if you really want to remove it, clamp some vice grips on it put a thin plate of aluminum or steel on top of the block (to protect the block surface) then use a pry bar to pop it straight up and out.
No loctite on reassembly just simple press fit is fine.

 

[Schmotown]

It really doesn't matter if it's chewed up a bit, the seal surface is the o-ring on the bottom and the seal surfaces are the block and the head.
But if you really want to remove it, clamp some vice grips on it put a thin plate of aluminum or steel on top of the block (to protect the block surface) then use a pry bar to pop it straight up and out.
No loctite on reassembly just simple press fit is fine.

Okay, one last question (for today): Is the mechanic at the dealership correct saying the the the blocked won't have to be "decked" after the new liner installation unless the block is warped? Thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Okay, one last question (for today): Is the mechanic at the dealership correct saying the the the blocked won't have to be "decked" after the new liner installation unless the block is warped? Thanks.

Yes, I've never decked any of my rebuilds.
The blocks rarely need more than just a good clean up.
The head gasket does not seal to the liners, so as long as they are not high then your good.

 

[Schmotown]

Yes, I've never decked any of my rebuilds.
The blocks rarely need more than just a good clean up.
The head gasket does not seal to the liners, so as long as they are not high then your good.

Thanks, that puts my mind at ease.