My hour meter on my B7100 is toast and I want to install a Sunpro LCD hour meter. The factory meter just has 2 connections but the Sunpro has 3. Ground, 12V and running 12V. Anyone else install one of these and point me in the right direction of what wire I need to run to the meter to make it function correctly? Thanks
B7100 hour meter
- Thread starter Zogman
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I'm a little confused? 
You answered what you need, Ground, +12V constant and +12V switched, take a test light and find what you have at the meter and then get what you don't have off of the back of the switch.
You answered what you need, Ground, +12V constant and +12V switched, take a test light and find what you have at the meter and then get what you don't have off of the back of the switch.
Sounds like the Sunpro may have a lit dial using the third wire. Could be something else---electric tachometer dial maybe---as I've not used a Sunpro device.
Just went back and reread your post and noticed "LCD". You need the directions for your meter and / or call Sunpro TechRep.
I've run across some LCD applications in other uses that require a constant power input in addition to the 'switched' application. If this turns out to be the case, you need the---I think---12-vdc 'running' to your ignition and the 12-vdc 'constant' to the battery positive.
If this starts getting overly squirrelly, consider going back to a basic mechanical readout hourmeter with two wires.
If--and this is an if--the LCD requires constant power in addition to the switched side, and if the machine sits, you MIGHT notice a slight battery charge degradation over time: even a couple milliamps will gradually pull a battery down over time.
Can't overemphasize finding the directions or getting Sunpro tech help. Some LCD devices are fairly sensitive to misapplication of voltage.
I'd wire it where the 'constant 12-vdc' feeds the meter off a switched ignition circuit----key 'on', meter 'on'.
Then, assuming you have a lit dial, run the 'switched 12-vdc' to the headlight circuit 'on' when you turn the headlights on. Or ignore it as relatively unimportant. Note above concerning possible 'constant' voltage for LCD.
Others may disagree but I'm inclined to fuse every auxiliary circuit. Seal all your wire splices to prevent corrosion and failure.
For certainty, run the ground all the way back to the battery negative.
Please post back and advise your experiences so we may all learn.
Just went back and reread your post and noticed "LCD". You need the directions for your meter and / or call Sunpro TechRep.
I've run across some LCD applications in other uses that require a constant power input in addition to the 'switched' application. If this turns out to be the case, you need the---I think---12-vdc 'running' to your ignition and the 12-vdc 'constant' to the battery positive.
If this starts getting overly squirrelly, consider going back to a basic mechanical readout hourmeter with two wires.
If--and this is an if--the LCD requires constant power in addition to the switched side, and if the machine sits, you MIGHT notice a slight battery charge degradation over time: even a couple milliamps will gradually pull a battery down over time.
Can't overemphasize finding the directions or getting Sunpro tech help. Some LCD devices are fairly sensitive to misapplication of voltage.
I'd wire it where the 'constant 12-vdc' feeds the meter off a switched ignition circuit----key 'on', meter 'on'.
Then, assuming you have a lit dial, run the 'switched 12-vdc' to the headlight circuit 'on' when you turn the headlights on. Or ignore it as relatively unimportant. Note above concerning possible 'constant' voltage for LCD.
Others may disagree but I'm inclined to fuse every auxiliary circuit. Seal all your wire splices to prevent corrosion and failure.
For certainty, run the ground all the way back to the battery negative.
Please post back and advise your experiences so we may all learn.
Sorry for the confusion guys. You're pretty much on point Stubbyie. In researching the hour meter on this site, I noticed that if you leave your key on, even with the tractor not running, the hour meter continues to run. Personally I would like to fix that design flaw because I've only had my tractor for 2 weeks and I've left the key on twice in that time.
So the real question is where can I get 12V while the engine is running? My thought is the alternator / generator but I was hoping someone would know of another point under the dash that I could tap off of.
The instructions for the new meter say 12 when key is on and 12V to a engine running source and a negative. The meter has internal memory so there won't be any drain on the battery.
btw.. It's a Sunpro CP7951
Hope this clears things up. Any help would be appreciated
So the real question is where can I get 12V while the engine is running? My thought is the alternator / generator but I was hoping someone would know of another point under the dash that I could tap off of.
The instructions for the new meter say 12 when key is on and 12V to a engine running source and a negative. The meter has internal memory so there won't be any drain on the battery.
btw.. It's a Sunpro CP7951
Hope this clears things up. Any help would be appreciated
Find your machine fuse box and use a multimeter (voltmeter) to find a circuit(s) meeting your power requirements---'on' or 'off' with key 'on' or 'off'.
You can find piggyback fuse adapters or similar pieces-parts by other names that will let you tap power from a fuse. Local auto parts store may have the little critters, or online. Make sure you compare fitment to your current fuses.
Figure out which side of the fuse you want to connect to so you remain fuse-protected on that circuit.
I'd tend to stay away from hooking directly to alt/gen/dynamo. And make all your splices are tight and sealed.
If I'm reading your post correctly the reason your meter continues to run with he key 'off' is that you've got it hooked [incorrectly] to a continuously energized circuit---perhaps on a spare (but incorrect for this application) terminal on the back of the key switch.
Per your post it sounds like the two 12-vdc wires need to be hooked (1) to a circuit energized only with the key 'on' and (2) the other supplies power to the driven circuit for it--the counting chip--to function. I'd take (2) to the battery. After using your new multimeter (see below) to find and tap a "key 'on'" circuit at the fuse box for (1).
Fuse both sides of the circuit(s) especially the one to the battery. And about that memory: even if the counting memory is retained internally (battery? lifetime?), I'd bet the continuously-energized (in order for the counter to function) side of the circuit will show a very tiny continuous draw from the battery. After you become familiar with your new multimeter (see below) you should be able to measure a millivolt drain.
How do you stop the engine if the key is left in the 'on' position? Do you have a pull-knob decompression engine kill?
Even if you have the wiring diagram, it would be advantageous to use a meter and track a circuit.
I'm proceeding as though you don't have a meter at hand. This is a good time to upgrade your arsenal. Stay cheap to start. Personally, I like seeing a needle fluctuate and swing instead of numbers fluttering too fast to see. Everybody needs a decent meter. I keep the free Harbor Freight type in every piece of rolling stock. Surprised how often they get used over time.
If you don't have a multimeter in custody, now's a good time to invest. Get a cheapest needle-type (not digital--unless dirt cheap; but seeing a needle swing is better) to learn with.
Everybody pops a meter sooner or later (you'll know this by the release of magic smoke, smell, and the meter quits working). When you do, throw away the cheap one (retain the leads) and upgrade after you learn the basics. You can get internally-fused (automotive-type fuses or push-to-reset) models but they're usually somewhat more expensive.
A consideration is that virtually all digital meters (other than the extreme high-end) are so poorly shielded that they react to fluorescent lights and anything else in your work area that emits radio frequency or other high energy interference---like plug wires on a gas engine while searching for voltage problems with the engine running.
Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
You can find piggyback fuse adapters or similar pieces-parts by other names that will let you tap power from a fuse. Local auto parts store may have the little critters, or online. Make sure you compare fitment to your current fuses.
Figure out which side of the fuse you want to connect to so you remain fuse-protected on that circuit.
I'd tend to stay away from hooking directly to alt/gen/dynamo. And make all your splices are tight and sealed.
If I'm reading your post correctly the reason your meter continues to run with he key 'off' is that you've got it hooked [incorrectly] to a continuously energized circuit---perhaps on a spare (but incorrect for this application) terminal on the back of the key switch.
Per your post it sounds like the two 12-vdc wires need to be hooked (1) to a circuit energized only with the key 'on' and (2) the other supplies power to the driven circuit for it--the counting chip--to function. I'd take (2) to the battery. After using your new multimeter (see below) to find and tap a "key 'on'" circuit at the fuse box for (1).
Fuse both sides of the circuit(s) especially the one to the battery. And about that memory: even if the counting memory is retained internally (battery? lifetime?), I'd bet the continuously-energized (in order for the counter to function) side of the circuit will show a very tiny continuous draw from the battery. After you become familiar with your new multimeter (see below) you should be able to measure a millivolt drain.
How do you stop the engine if the key is left in the 'on' position? Do you have a pull-knob decompression engine kill?
Even if you have the wiring diagram, it would be advantageous to use a meter and track a circuit.
I'm proceeding as though you don't have a meter at hand. This is a good time to upgrade your arsenal. Stay cheap to start. Personally, I like seeing a needle fluctuate and swing instead of numbers fluttering too fast to see. Everybody needs a decent meter. I keep the free Harbor Freight type in every piece of rolling stock. Surprised how often they get used over time.
If you don't have a multimeter in custody, now's a good time to invest. Get a cheapest needle-type (not digital--unless dirt cheap; but seeing a needle swing is better) to learn with.
Everybody pops a meter sooner or later (you'll know this by the release of magic smoke, smell, and the meter quits working). When you do, throw away the cheap one (retain the leads) and upgrade after you learn the basics. You can get internally-fused (automotive-type fuses or push-to-reset) models but they're usually somewhat more expensive.
A consideration is that virtually all digital meters (other than the extreme high-end) are so poorly shielded that they react to fluorescent lights and anything else in your work area that emits radio frequency or other high energy interference---like plug wires on a gas engine while searching for voltage problems with the engine running.
Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
kubotasam
Well-known member
Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
Not sure if I totally understand your situation. However if what you need is a source of 12 volt power only when the engine is running, regardless of if the switch is on or off. Then what you would need to do is to splice a diode into the wire that comes from the regulator (rectifier) to terminal 30 on the switch. If wired correctly even if you stop the engine with the shut off lever and leave the key on then your hour meter will not continue to rack up time.
That's exactly what I'm looking for Sam. I just checked the schematic and I see leg 30. I will get my meter and see what she does. Is there a specific diode that I should get? Thanks for your help.
kubotasam
Well-known member
Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
I see you have other charging issues to fix before you proceed with this. If you do get to the diode install, If I remember correctly the dynamo puts out 15 amps max so you would want some sort of a safety factor in the diode capacity. If it were me I would go for a 25 - 30 amp diode. You will also need a heat sink attached to the diode to dissipate the heat that will be generated.