B7100 front pto clutch removal ?

[tmessenger]

I have an early B7100 D this has an electric front pto clutch that drives the mover deck. I want to get the clutch off the drive shaft but am having trouble finding the right tool. The clutch was made for AC compressors by Four Seasons and was mostly used on York compressors on late 60's and early 70's Ford cars. I checked a clutch hub removal kit and several auto repair places but non of them had the right puller to get the hub off. It takes a male threaded sleeve with very course threads that can fit over the threaded shaft.

Any ideas I also searched ebay motors for a puller but no luck.

 

[lsmurphy]

Did you take it to an AC shop?

Can you put it in a press and press the shaft out......vs a puller?

 

[tmessenger]

Did you take it to an AC shop?

Can you put it in a press and press the shaft out......vs a puller?

No AC shops in my little town just mechanic shops that do AC work. No you can't press the front hub off no way to get under it, it takes a specific puller for this hub I just need to find out which one and where to get it.

UP DATE: Well for all of you that have this style clutch this is what I've found out: When these are used on AC compressors they are bolted on all you do is remove the bolt then thread a 5/8" course threaded bolt into the hub and it pushes it off. But this monkeyed up deal has a threaded shaft in the way so I guess I'm going to have to drill out the inside of a 5/8" bolt so it will fit over the shaft and see if I can make it work.

 

[Stumpy]

Yeah drill and tap a short bolt and then use another bolt to push against the shaft would be what I'd do in your shoes. Not really an easier way to go about it I can think of short of the correct tool. Be glad that's a normal thread, some puller threads I've seen like that use nonstandard thread counts so you have to buy the $40 puller.

 

[lsmurphy]

Messenger,

Since you actually know how to take and post images......would you post some of the entire assembly please? Of the splined coupler too?

What do you plan on doing with it?

That coupler is gold btw.......cant' be had anywhere.

 

[tmessenger]

I got it off, now that I see how it's put together you should be able to pull it with an arm puller from the pulley, it comes off as a unit. I tried that initially but didn't have any luck so I drilled and taped 3 1/4" bolts into the front clutch flange and made a small puller.

The clutch bearing is in great shape but the drive shaft / carrier bearing has some play in it. As the drive shaft female spline is still good I didn't want to unduly stress that so a new bearing was in order. The bearing is common and cheap I got a new SKF bearing off ebay for $7 shipped.

 

[Stumpy]

Nicely done!

Murphy is right that coupler is worth it's weight in gold. Is the spline cut into the end of the shaft?

 

[tmessenger]

The spline was made as a separate piece and then welded to the end of the shaft. If you look at the photo you can see the weld. And yeah I've read about that spline and not being able to source it, hopefully this one lasts another 30 years. I'll get a photo of the spline and put it up, stay tuned.

tm

Nicely done!

Murphy is right that coupler is worth it's weight in gold. Is the spline cut into the end of the shaft?

 

[lsmurphy]

I read a write-up on splines and why they wear out. There is a term for it that I cannot remember right now.

If not periodically greased the splines will rust, the rust acts as an abrasive between the two shafts and causes premature wear.

 

[tmessenger]

I read a write-up on splines and why they wear out. There is a term for it that I cannot remember right now.

If not periodically greased the splines will rust, the rust acts as an abrasive between the two shafts and causes premature wear.

Yes I've read that to, I don't think this one had seen grease in a while even tho it has a zerk fitting. I think the only thing that has saved it was the low hrs on the tractor (750) and always being in a garage.

 

[Stumpy]

That's what I thought they'd done. That piece was probably done on a wire EDM though welding it while keeping it concentric must've been tricky.

The is always at least a little clearance which causes the splines to rub against each other when the shaft is starting and running. The front PTO uses involute splines which are similar to gear teeth. They have the advantage of causing the driven shaft to self center unlike keyed shafts which push the driven shaft off center but they cause additional wear. It should be greased with a high moly grease.

 

[Dwarner]

Your shaft looks worn where the bearing contacts the shaft similar to mine. I was able to build up the worn area with a MIG welder then mounted the shaft in a lathe to restore the shaft diameter. Pressed it back into the bearing worked very well.

 

[tmessenger]

Here's the business end of the shaft all back together now and working good.