B7100 Clutch will not disengage

[EJT]

I have a B7100 on loan doing some landscaping. When I push in the clutch petal, the tractor does not stop (on level ground) so I had to shift it out of gear to stop it. It was working fine one minute, wouldn't stop the next. Laying on the ground between the front and rear wheels (engine off, brakes set, looking up in the opening to the rear of the bell housing, I see the fork on the linkage which shoves the throw out bearing forward has slipped out of the grooves. It would appear the pines have broken off and allowed the rod (connected to the clutch pedal) and fork assembly to come out of the machined tracks on each side of the round part surrounding the shaft to the trans. I restarted it, got it in 1st gear at a slow idle, smoothed out the dirt using the frontend loader and parked it in the back yard. It would appear, everything else is working, no abnormal noise other then getting it in 1st gear so I think clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing are okay.
1. Can this be repaired without spliting the tractor apart?
2. Do I need a new part or can this be build up by welding?
3. Any other advice?

 

[chknscratch]

You seem to have a basic understanding of it all. I don't think you will have to split the tractor, but you will need to remove the tie rod that connects the steering to the front axle. The clutch assembly goes through the fork and you need to back it out all the way for the easiest way to get it all back together. I think it may be possible it just slipped out and may stay put if you put it back together. I have heard people say they restored the shape of the fork closer to its original shape, but I don't think it has to be perfect. You should not have to split the tractor, I just did essentially this same task in the last 24 hours with my B7100. It is extremely tight to get your hands in and out of that hole, so just be slow and patient.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I don't see the need to restore fork perfecktly either. As long as fingers press evenly in release bearing. If it looks like i will come out, likely it will.
So is this your habit, returning borrowed goods in better condition than when you received them?

Bet you have lots of friends that like to lend you stuff....

I do...

Just noticed, welcome to OT.

 

[EJT]

Thanks for the information and feedback.
Will attempt to reengage the fork into the release bearing slots.
Will provide feedback on my success.
One other question, in review of the settings on the clutch linkage, what is the referance point you measure from?
Instructions are "clutch pedal free play should be 2-4 mm. Clutch pedal travel should not exceed 8 mm. Safety switch should not be engaged until clutch pedal is depressed past the recommended free play setting, placing clutch in disengaged position."

 

[EJT]

Removed the horz. shaft which the fork is mounted without removing the steering linkage to the front wheels. Found the splines of the fork which shoves the throw out bearing "broken off" The fork appears to be cast steel. One of the splines had been broken off a long time based on color. The other one had a crack in it and finally finished braking. Appears (best guest) the parts that broke off was about an inch long.
Going to a welding shop in the morning to see if it can be built up, other wise will have to order a new part. More news as it becomes available.

 

[chknscratch]

I think the steering link will have to come off when you are trying to get it all back together. I had the room to get mine apart, but my fork was not engaged to the throwout bearing. Once you have the proper alignment for the fork to be engaged into the throwout bearing, it seemed to me it was impossible to slide the clutch shaft through the through the tractor without a clash.

Best of luck, sounds like you are making the best of what you got.

 

[EJT]

Good news, back in the landscaping business for the better half.
Took the fork to a welding shop and based on it being cast iron, they did not recommend building up the forks which had broken off (3/4" broken off). One side had been broken a long time, where as the other one was a fresh break so decided to get a new one.
Called local Kobuta dealer and they quoted $102 + freight. Decided to look on internet, and 2 hours later, found a used one in WI at less then 1/2 price. Took 5 days to get here and got it put in and everything works like it should. Based on the price, I took several pictures, and made some very careful measurements of the used part I had to put in. With this information, any machine shop could make another one out of steel and it would work fine. (Quicker and cheaper)
Big thank you to "chknscratch" and "Tooljunkie" for the advice they provided. Was able to get the fork installed (very, very tight fit for my hand) after removing the steering linkage so the clutch rod could slide straight in.
Would recommend to others to consider when they replace their clutches, to measure and take a pictuce of their unbroken clutch fork so it they ever have to replace it, they can have one made, in lieu of waiting for another part to be shipped in.

 

[kubotasam]

How about posting the pictures and measurments so we can all have them for reference.

 

[85Hokie]

Good news, back in the landscaping business for the better half.
Took the fork to a welding shop and based on it being cast iron, they did not recommend building up the forks which had broken off (3/4" broken off). One side had been broken a long time, where as the other one was a fresh break so decided to get a new one.
Called local Kobuta dealer and they quoted $102 + freight. Decided to look on internet, and 2 hours later, found a used one in WI at less then 1/2 price. Took 5 days to get here and got it put in and everything works like it should. Based on the price, I took several pictures, and made some very careful measurements of the used part I had to put in. With this information, any machine shop could make another one out of steel and it would work fine. (Quicker and cheaper)
Big thank you to "chknscratch" and "Tooljunkie" for the advice they provided. Was able to get the fork installed (very, very tight fit for my hand) after removing the steering linkage so the clutch rod could slide straight in.
Would recommend to others to consider when they replace their clutches, to measure and take a pictuce of their unbroken clutch fork so it they ever have to replace it, they can have one made, in lieu of waiting for another part to be shipped in.

I too want to see pictures! Post them when you can!

 

[EJT]

Pictures and measurements will be provided if I can figure out how to post them. Thanks again for the help.