B5200 wiring

[Steve Neul]

Anyone have a wiring diagram. Spent most of the day looking for the owners manual and couldn't find it. Haven't seen it in decades.

Somethings gone bad with the hazard lights. The lights themselves work. The switch was corroded internally but I took it apart and restored it but I'm not getting any power to the switch. It's not just a simple light because it has a flasher connected to it.

 

[whitetiger]

Anyone have a wiring diagram. Spent most of the day looking for the owners manual and couldn't find it. Haven't seen it in decades.

Somethings gone bad with the hazard lights. The lights themselves work. The switch was corroded internally but I took it apart and restored it but I'm not getting any power to the switch. It's not just a simple light because it has a flasher connected to it.

 

[Dave_eng]

Wiring diagram shows a 10 amp fuse and the electronic flasher unit.

Likely any modern electronic automotive flasher would work if the fuse is OK

Dave

 

[Steve Neul]

Thanks for the diagram. Mine seems to be a bit different though. I have different color wires and have two wires going to one terminal on the switch. Then the wires connecting the switch to the flasher are different. This is where I'm at now.

 

[Dave_eng]

Could you please check out a couple of things for me.

Can you identify which 10 amp fuse feds the flasher?

Do you have a 12 volt test light?

With the test light you can confirm if power is reaching the flasher unit regardless of the wire color.
By removing the fuse, power should stop flowing to the flasher.

This Kubota circuit is different than most on North American vehicles in that power flows first to the flasher, then to the switch and finally to the lights.

Is it possible your flasher switch has three positions. OFF, Flash and ON continuously.

Dave

 

[Steve Neul]

Could you please check out a couple of things for me.

Can you identify which 10 amp fuse feds the flasher?

Do you have a 12 volt test light?

View attachment 58476

With the test light you can confirm if power is reaching the flasher unit regardless of the wire color.
By removing the fuse, power should stop flowing to the flasher.

This Kubota circuit is different than most on North American vehicles in that power flows first to the flasher, then to the switch and finally to the lights.

Is it possible your flasher switch has three positions. OFF, Flash and ON continuously.

Dave

I don't have a test light but I checked it with a volt meter and there is no power going to the switch or the flasher. The schematic shows a small fuse box with two fuses. Mine just has one 7.5 amp inline fuse up near the battery between a solid red wire and a solid white wire for everything. The switch internally is like a light switch, just on and off.

I also checked for power at that fuse and there was none on either side of it.

With everything wrapped up and in plastic conduit it's just difficult to trace wiring. I was hoping the schematic would fill in the blanks.

 

[Dave_eng]

I don't have a test light but I checked it with a volt meter and there is no power going to the switch or the flasher. The schematic shows a small fuse box with two fuses. Mine just has one 7.5 amp inline fuse up near the battery between a solid red wire and a solid white wire for everything. The switch internally is like a light switch, just on and off.

I also checked for power at that fuse and there was none on either side of it.

With everything wrapped up and in plastic conduit it's just difficult to trace wiring. I was hoping the schematic would fill in the blanks.

Your key switch has a main terminal #30.

#30 should have power all the time. Key ON or OFF.

If no power at #30 then fusible link is suspect.

Do you know what the fusible link looks like and where it is?

It will be very close to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid and look like a loop of wire.

If you do not have voltage on either side of the fusible link then it is blown.

Check as suggested and report back.

Dave

 

[Steve Neul]

Your key switch has a main terminal #30.

#30 should have power all the time. Key ON or OFF.

If no power at #30 then fusible link is suspect.

Do you know what the fusible link looks like and where it is?

It will be very close to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid and look like a loop of wire.

If you do not have voltage on either side of the fusible link then it is blown.

View attachment 58529

Check as suggested and report back.

Dave

The fusible link is alright. I'm beginning to think I'm loosing a connection where the wiring harness that comes from the front of the tractor plugs into the wiring harness under the dash. Recently I split the tractor and had to unplug the harness to get it apart. The main terminal #30 also has a white wire connected to it that I think goes all the way to the front of the tractor to a inline fuse and then has a red wire coming back. There is a red wire going to the flasher which I think may be the power supply for that.

 

[Dave_eng]

The fusible link is alright. I'm beginning to think I'm loosing a connection where the wiring harness that comes from the front of the tractor plugs into the wiring harness under the dash. Recently I split the tractor and had to unplug the harness to get it apart. The main terminal #30 also has a white wire connected to it that I think goes all the way to the front of the tractor to a inline fuse and then has a red wire coming back. There is a red wire going to the flasher which I think may be the power supply for that.

The flasher unit must have power all the time according to the wiring.

If there is not power all the time and there is a connector in the circuit, you need to make certain the power is able to flow through the connector.

Dave

 

[Steve Neul]

The flasher unit must have power all the time according to the wiring.

If there is not power all the time and there is a connector in the circuit, you need to make certain the power is able to flow through the connector.

Dave

I had assumed the power for the flasher came off the ignition switch so it was off when the key was off. If it has power all the time it may be a easier fix to tap into the white wire coming off the center terminal of the ignition switch and put an inline fuse on it and go directly to the flasher. I think I could locate the fuse where I could have access to it.

 

[Dave_eng]

I had assumed the power for the flasher came off the ignition switch so it was off when the key was off. If it has power all the time it may be a easier fix to tap into the white wire coming off the center terminal of the ignition switch and put an inline fuse on it and go directly to the flasher. I think I could locate the fuse where I could have access to it.

The logic is that you can leave the tractor, secure and unattended with the key OFF, and be able to leave the flashers ON and working.

I would rather you spend a little time figuring out why the factory wiring is not sending power to the flasher rather than a "work around," as there are other items that also are powered constantly and you will next run into a new problem.

From memory and not absolutely certain..... the regulator is also powered by the constantly on circuit.

Dave

 

[Steve Neul]

The logic is that you can leave the tractor, secure and unattended with the key OFF, and be able to leave the flashers ON and working.

I would rather you spend a little time figuring out why the factory wiring is not sending power to the flasher rather than a "work around," as there are other items that also are powered constantly and you will next run into a new problem.

From memory and not absolutely certain..... the regulator is also powered by the constantly on circuit.

Dave

Maybe you are right, I never checked for power at the regulator. Everything else seems to be working fine. Silly though, I've had the tractor for 34 years and have never used the emergency flashers but since I've got the dash off I like to fix anything isn't working. I didn't think I would ever get the steering wheel off, I tried about 15 years ago and gave up.

 

[Steve Neul]

Update. I found the problem, the white wire coming from the center terminal on the switch somehow was broken internally. Never seen anything like it, located inside of conduit under the dash where it couldn't have been damaged managed to break. The wire must have been damaged before it was put in the tractor and waited 34 years to fail.

In the end the white wire coming from the center terminal on the ignition switch went to the front of the tractor by the battery to an inline fuse and then a red wire with a black stripe went back to the flasher to power it.

 

[Dave_eng]

Update. I found the problem, the white wire coming from the center terminal on the switch somehow was broken internally. Never seen anything like it, located inside of conduit under the dash where it couldn't have been damaged managed to break. The wire must have been damaged before it was put in the tractor and waited 34 years to fail.

In the end the white wire coming from the center terminal on the ignition switch went to the front of the tractor by the battery to an inline fuse and then a red wire with a black stripe went back to the flasher to power it.

Steve
Many thanks for the final chapter.

Compliments to you for keeping digging until you found the broken internal wire.

A tidbit of info. Steel brake line corrosion and failure was a big issue decades ago. Many thought switching to copper would be the solution.

participated with Volvo on a special copper based brake line material evaluation. In the end, we all learned that copper hardens significantly with time and movement and becomes brittle.

I expect the copper wire failed from the same metallurgical issues. You still see this type of failure it in the wiring on newer vehicles in places like door or hatch openings where the wire is bridging between the body and door and the movement and bending the wire has to tolerate due to the opening and closing of doors and hatches.

Dave

 

[Steve Neul]

Steve
Many thanks for the final chapter.

Compliments to you for keeping digging until you found the broken internal wire.

A tidbit of info. Steel brake line corrosion and failure was a big issue decades ago. Many thought switching to copper would be the solution.

participated with Volvo on a special copper based brake line material evaluation. In the end, we all learned that copper hardens significantly with time and movement and becomes brittle.

I expect the copper wire failed from the same metallurgical issues. You still see this type of failure it in the wiring on newer vehicles in places like door or hatch openings where the wire is bridging between the body and door and the movement and bending the wire has to tolerate due to the opening and closing of doors and hatches.

Dave

With this wire there wouldn't have been any fatigue with it wrapped with other wiring inside conduit. This morning I stripped all the conduit off from one end to the other and was running my hands over that wire tracing it to it's origin when I came to a spot that easily bent. Upon further inspection I could tell the copper was broken inside so I cut that section of wire out and replaced it. Somebody must have dropped something on it at the factory and broken most of the strands of wire and it took this long for the last few strands to break.

I see what they were doing now, they put the fuse up near the battery to make it easier to get to. Had I done the work around fix it would have done the same thing but years from now if the fuse blew I would have a hard time remembering where I put it up under the dash. But then I've never blown a fuse on on this tractor.