I've inherited an older Kubota b3300 and an older woods rotary cutter. As I'm unfamiliar how do people set the height of the front of the cutter? The 3 point seems to have up, down, and a large area in the middle of the handle. If its in the middle is that like a float? The old Woods cutter mentions a limit chain but I guess my father in law never used it. Otherwise it goes full down and drags throught the dirt.
B3300 and brush hog
- Thread starter ScottyK
- Start date
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
I run my old woods 60" rotary with the front a bit lower than the back. That's about 4-6" above the ground, with the height I've set the cutter rear wheel at. It can lower and raise a bit from there as needed. As long as the back wheel stays on the ground.
Setting this old Woods rotary up for my newer tractor took some experimenting and adjusting. 3-point height, rear wheel height adjustments, 3-point top link length, lift pins lower mount holes, etc.
But if your mower and tractor came together I wouldn't mess with its settings, not yet, anyway.
The position control lever adjusts the lower arms height where they are kept from getting lower, but can always be lifted upwards. Set it so the mower is off the ground the correct mowing height and note where the lever position is. My B2650HSD has an inch rule beside the lever, which has half torn off already. It's also equipped with a stop block screw that I slide up to the lever current position and hand tighten the heck out of it so it stops the lever from dropping the 3-point past that setting.
Setting this old Woods rotary up for my newer tractor took some experimenting and adjusting. 3-point height, rear wheel height adjustments, 3-point top link length, lift pins lower mount holes, etc.
But if your mower and tractor came together I wouldn't mess with its settings, not yet, anyway.
The position control lever adjusts the lower arms height where they are kept from getting lower, but can always be lifted upwards. Set it so the mower is off the ground the correct mowing height and note where the lever position is. My B2650HSD has an inch rule beside the lever, which has half torn off already. It's also equipped with a stop block screw that I slide up to the lever current position and hand tighten the heck out of it so it stops the lever from dropping the 3-point past that setting.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Then it has a Select Control Type instead of Position Control, it seems. What year B3300SU have you?
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I think you have position control for the three point hitch. That means you can set the lift height in many places. The lowest setting will be for underground implements like plows. Then there is often a large movement of the lever before the three point arms begin to lift. Once they start to lift you can stop moving the control lever and the arms will stop moving. Then you can move them up or down from that position by using the control lever.
There is a speed control knob (probably) between your legs under the seat front. It changes the LOWERING speed only. It can lock the arms from moving down when turned as much as possible to the slow position. It should rotate several turns from full fast to full lock. When locked the arms will still move up but won’t lower at all. Sometimes people think it is broken since the arms won’t move down but you just have to turn it towards the fast direction until the arms start to fall. An implement like your mower will slam to the ground unless you adjust that speed knob to slow it down.
Now to adjust the mower height you use the three point arms with the top link attached (and adjusted short) to lift the weight off the rear wheel. Then you set the rear height by moving a pin or linkage somehow to hold the rear of the mower about an inch or two above your desired cut height. Then you set it down on the rear wheel and lengthen the top link. Then lift the front of the mower to the required height to mow the grass at the correct height. The blades probably cut an inch or two above the bottom of the deck that drags on the ground. The rear of the mower should be higher than the rear to make it operate easier by cutting the grass once not several times. The top link should be left long so the mower will follow the ground contours as you go through a ditch or over a hill.
The use of chains is so the mower won’t drift down and so you can return to the set height easily. Chains are attached to something up high on the tractor and the other end to the front of the mower. They sell sets of chains and hooks that are specifically manufactured for that but you can use most any chain if you are clever enough to figure out attachment points.
There is a speed control knob (probably) between your legs under the seat front. It changes the LOWERING speed only. It can lock the arms from moving down when turned as much as possible to the slow position. It should rotate several turns from full fast to full lock. When locked the arms will still move up but won’t lower at all. Sometimes people think it is broken since the arms won’t move down but you just have to turn it towards the fast direction until the arms start to fall. An implement like your mower will slam to the ground unless you adjust that speed knob to slow it down.
Now to adjust the mower height you use the three point arms with the top link attached (and adjusted short) to lift the weight off the rear wheel. Then you set the rear height by moving a pin or linkage somehow to hold the rear of the mower about an inch or two above your desired cut height. Then you set it down on the rear wheel and lengthen the top link. Then lift the front of the mower to the required height to mow the grass at the correct height. The blades probably cut an inch or two above the bottom of the deck that drags on the ground. The rear of the mower should be higher than the rear to make it operate easier by cutting the grass once not several times. The top link should be left long so the mower will follow the ground contours as you go through a ditch or over a hill.
The use of chains is so the mower won’t drift down and so you can return to the set height easily. Chains are attached to something up high on the tractor and the other end to the front of the mower. They sell sets of chains and hooks that are specifically manufactured for that but you can use most any chain if you are clever enough to figure out attachment points.
You are correct. There are no set positions. This is my first tractor that was set up this way.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
He said it has up, down, and neutral positions on the 3-point control.
That does not sound like position control.
I pull the up position until it reaches the height I want and then move lever to the neutral position. It takes some getting use to. That's probably the only thing on the B3300 that I don't like. It makes it very difficult to return to the same height after you raise bush hog for a rock or something.
I try to keep a finishing mower on it to solve the up and down.
The B7500 I recently purchased is like this. Kinda disappointed, but at the price I have in it it’s works fine. Plus the tractor is small enough I just lean over and look at the side of the bush hog.
More info for the OP. You want the bush hog slightly lower in the front than the back. And your top link should be extended out some to accommodate dips in the terrain, some have chains and others are designed where the frame will flex.
Which part of Alabama are you in?