B2601, recommended options?

Tim1983

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Jan 3, 2021
43
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Wisconsin
In the next week I hope to sit down with a dealer and put together a PO for a B2601. They expect more in March/April and I want dibs on one.

Any recommendations on Options? I know I want a 3rd function, but I am a little confused on the terminology. Also wondering if the higher capacity alternator is worth it, extra factory lights, drop draw bar, etc?

Im also curious what Landpride/Kubota implements would be worth getting right away. I think I will get a deal on them. That said, they seem to be expensive to start with. Are Landpride worth the expense? I'm immediately interested in a Grapple, brush hog, disk harrow, post hole digger, and maybe a tiller
 

PoTreeBoy

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L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
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In the next week I hope to sit down with a dealer and put together a PO for a B2601. They expect more in March/April and I want dibs on one.

Any recommendations on Options? I know I want a 3rd function, but I am a little confused on the terminology. Also wondering if the higher capacity alternator is worth it, extra factory lights, drop draw bar, etc?

Im also curious what Landpride/Kubota implements would be worth getting right away. I think I will get a deal on them. That said, they seem to be expensive to start with. Are Landpride worth the expense? I'm immediately interested in a Grapple, brush hog, disk harrow, post hole digger, and maybe a tiller
Congratulations! This was your original task list:
"This is what I would be using it for.
  1. Lawn mowing 20-30 times a year (1-2 acres with MMM)
  2. brush hog 2-3 times a year (1-3 acres)
  3. Till a medium garden (Basically whatever I could till in a day)
  4. Clean a horse pen
  5. Misc (pull fence post, plant trees, minor grading, maybe put in a small gravel drive)"
Did you decide to mow with MMM, RFM or other? Some like T&T for box blade or rear blade. Rear remotes needed for that. Are the factory work lights LED? If not, I'd consider DIY.
 

NHSleddog

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Personally, I would get a 3 spool valve for the back to run top and tilt as well as angle, ordered with the unit. Not just for top/tilt/angle but it makes picking with the 3pt easier, it makes loading/unloading with any attachment easier. I use T&T on my box blade, on my harro, loading/unloading I use T&T&A on my rear blade and on my rake all the time. Ordering it now with the tractor will get you a nice clean OEM install.

I would go new on the grapple and possibly the tiller.

Whatever tiller you decide on, make sure the replacement tines are readily available. I have a LP tiller and it has taken years/acres of abuse.

Most of the rest you can get much cheaper used on craigslist or FB marketplace and you have a few months to do it.
 
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Tim1983

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Jan 3, 2021
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Congratulations! This was your original task list:
"This is what I would be using it for.
  1. Lawn mowing 20-30 times a year (1-2 acres with MMM)
  2. brush hog 2-3 times a year (1-3 acres)
  3. Till a medium garden (Basically whatever I could till in a day)
  4. Clean a horse pen
  5. Misc (pull fence post, plant trees, minor grading, maybe put in a small gravel drive)"
Did you decide to mow with MMM, RFM or other? Some like T&T for box blade or rear blade. Rear remotes needed for that. Are the factory work lights LED? If not, I'd consider DIY.
I will us the MMM for the majority of the lawn mowing. I could likely use it for my pasture as well, they are not over grown. BUT, I think I will have other needs at friends houses or my brothers land for the Brush Hog, so I might as well save my MMM the wear. I think the factory upgrade lights are LED, but likely not a cheap option. For many of these I need more details from the dealer.
 

dirtydeed

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Congrats.

Make sure that the loader is SSQA, not a pin on bucket.

I'd suggest a set of forks. They will come in very handy and can be used as a "poor man's grapple". I don't have a grapple and won't be getting one. The forks do a fine job moving logs, brush piles and other "fork" duties. They cost a fraction of what a grapple and associated plumbing will run you and are stupid simple to use. They are generally lighter in weight and allow you to pick up heavier items because of that fact. My forks have a built in 2" receiver which I use frequently to move trailers around.

One other suggestion I would make is perhaps consider a flail mower instead of a brush hog. Depending on what you're mowing, you may find that a flail mower would be better suited to your needs. There are several varieties (blade types) available.

Best of luck to you.
 
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Tim1983

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Jan 3, 2021
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Wisconsin
Congrats.

Make sure that the loader is SSQA, not a pin on bucket.

I'd suggest a set of forks. They will come in very handy and can be used as a "poor man's grapple". I don't have a grapple and won't be getting one. The forks do a fine job moving logs, brush piles and other "fork" duties. They cost a fraction of what a grapple and associated plumbing will run you and are stupid simple to use. They are generally lighter in weight and allow you to pick up heavier items because of that fact. My forks have a built in 2" receiver which I use frequently to move trailers around.

One other suggestion I would make is perhaps consider a flail mower instead of a brush hog. Depending on what you're mowing, you may find that a flail mower would be better suited to your needs. There are several varieties (blade types) available.

Best of luck to you.
What advantage does the flail mower have? I will do some research.

I am 50/50 on the grapple. Want to be set up for it, but I may try out my bucket/forks and some chains to see how they handle my overgrown brush/trees.
 

dirtydeed

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B2650 BH77, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Dec 8, 2017
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Wind Gap, PA
What advantage does the flail mower have? I will do some research.

I am 50/50 on the grapple. Want to be set up for it, but I may try out my bucket/forks and some chains to see how they handle my overgrown brush/trees.
They are lighter, much more compact and generally produce a much better cut than a rotary mower. They also allow you to cut much closer to the ground (if wanted) and can be used for grass as well. You can also off-set some models, either mechanically, or hydraulically. You can typically run a bit larger unit as well compared to a rotary mower....again, depending on what you're cutting. It seems like they are only starting to gain notoriety within tractor forums.

The negatives are that they can be more difficult to use if you are mowing in reverse (like to get under trees) and you wouldn't be able to cut really heavy stuff (like over 2 inch in diameter). There are different blade types available (Y shaped for turf, and hammers for turf and heavy stuff).

Lots of threads on here that discuss them and many youtube videos on flail mowers.

Edit: one additional recommendation I would make is get yourself a quick hitch. land pride a speeco.

IMG_1390.JPG
 
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PaulL

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B2601
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NZ
Lots of good recommendations here. I'll put the counterpoint on some of these items because there's a fair bit of money being spent:

  1. People who have top and tilt swear by it, and it's the main use of rear remotes. Having said that, lots of people don't have it and seem to be happy maintaining their driveway and other ground engaging tasks. On a smallish tractor it's not a big chore to lean over the back and adjust the top link and/or side link, whereas on a bigger tractor it'd mean getting off. If your driveway is relatively straight and relatively flat, it seems to me you set your box blade once, then you drive down one side of your driveway, turn around, come back the other side. You don't need to change the angle much if at all, you mostly just lift it up and down. If you have lots of undulations then you may be fiddling the top link all the time to avoid digging in the back of the box blade. I think rear remotes cost about the same to add later as they do to add now - ask your dealer but I think they're dealer installed anyway. Maybe get him to give you a firm price now, then ask him if you can leave it for a couple months to see if you're happy without - and if you decide you need them then bring the tractor back in for install
  2. Quick attach again depends on how you're storing implements and attaching them. My implements are in a shed with concrete floor, and because I'm space constrained I have them all on dollies so I can push them around to get to things. With small implements, and on dollies, you don't really need a quick attach - easy enough to push the implement around to attach it. If you're on gravel, or the implement is heavier than you can easily horse around, then a quick attach makes sense. Again, a quick attach costs no more later than it does now, so easy enough to wait and see
  3. Grapple. If you're doing a lot of tree trimmings or brush clearing then I think a grapple would be awesome. But they're quite expensive. You only really need third function if you have a grapple, and again I think they're dealer installed anyway - no reason it'd be more expensive done later than done now. So I think you could delay that until/if you actually are buying a grapple. Otherwise you may end up with a third function installed that never gets used.
High capacity alternator - only if you're going to run something electric that takes a lot of current. LED work lights wouldn't draw that much.

Work lights - only if you're working at night. I didn't see snow removal in your list. I think work lights would be great if you're using your tractor for lighting while you're doing non-tractor tasks. Also useful when clearing out horse pens in the evening - I believe the FEL will obscure the normal headlights when in use, so if you're gonna do the horse pens in the dark then work lights will help. I don't have work lights and have never missed them.

I agree on looking at the flail. An offset flail can be great for fence lines and road sides. You can get them with hydraulic angle too, if you have ponds or angled road sides that need maintenance.

Not sure what you'd use a drop draw bar for. I have a 3ph tow hitch which I consider essential for moving tandem trailers - it lets me lift the trailer high enough to get one set of wheels unweighted, and therefore reduces scuffing and makes it easy to push trailers into tight locations. Others would have a receiver on their FEL, which I don't (yet).

I spray a lot, and a 50-100 litre sprayer with electric pump is cheap. I have 60L I think, and I built a 3ph frame for it and wired in a switch on the dash. It has both a hand wand for spraying glyphosphate, and a boom for spraying broadleaf in the lawn, you might also have to spray thistle in your pasture. Soooooo much better than a backpack sprayer. But again, something you buy later rather than with the tractor.

Tiller you want to get with the tractor (add into the finance package). Neil from Messicks has a good video on different sorts of tillers and when you want what - I think they come in forward rotation and reverse rotation and one is good for new gardens, one good for when you till the same soil over and over. He also has some video on flail mowers I think, as does GP Outdoors (from when he had a B2601 - he has an LX now I think).
 

je1279

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LX2610 HSD w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" FB, EA Wicked 55 Grapple and Woods 60" BB
Dec 6, 2020
502
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Upstate NY
I'd recommend the OEM Kubota 3rd function valve if they offer one. I also like the R14 tires on my LX2610. If you get substantial snow where you are, you may want either a Land Pride front blade or a 3 point snowblower as well.
 

Tim1983

Member
Jan 3, 2021
43
17
8
Wisconsin
An assumption with all of this is that they would be less expensive if I buy them now. That will apply to the 3rd function valve. Part of my theory is I want to have these things on hand. Growing up I watched my dad buy the right tool for a job the third and last time he needed it. I always said I would avoid that if I could. (and don't get me wrong, there are some good lessons in making due with what you have)

The flail mower is interesting to me, but I don't think I have the right situation for it. My MMM will do most of what I need. What the flail or rotary mower would be for is the extreme tough situations. Clearing a new path through woods, tackling and overgrown part of pasture with saplings, etc.

Any strong opinions on post hole diggers?
 

JimmyJazz

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Steiner 425
Aug 8, 2020
317
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43
Pittsburgh, Pa
An assumption with all of this is that they would be less expensive if I buy them now. That will apply to the 3rd function valve. Part of my theory is I want to have these things on hand. Growing up I watched my dad buy the right tool for a job the third and last time he needed it. I always said I would avoid that if I could. (and don't get me wrong, there are some good lessons in making due with what you have)

The flail mower is interesting to me, but I don't think I have the right situation for it. My MMM will do most of what I need. What the flail or rotary mower would be for is the extreme tough situations. Clearing a new path through woods, tackling and overgrown part of pasture with saplings, etc.

Any strong opinions on post hole diggers?
I have an Everything Attachments post hole digger. It worked great on youtube. My land is rocky and even if it wasn't a post hole digger is not so great. The problem is the lack of down pressure. You can rent a 1 or 2 man auger from many rental places. You get down pressure, save money ,not clutter up your garage and make your estate easier to manage for your spouse down the road. The truth hurts. Thats why I am here, I have few friends.
 
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UpNorthMI

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In the next week I hope to sit down with a dealer and put together a PO for a B2601. They expect more in March/April and I want dibs on one.

Any recommendations on Options? I know I want a 3rd function, but I am a little confused on the terminology. Also wondering if the higher capacity alternator is worth it, extra factory lights, drop draw bar, etc?

Im also curious what Landpride/Kubota implements would be worth getting right away. I think I will get a deal on them. That said, they seem to be expensive to start with. Are Landpride worth the expense? I'm immediately interested in a Grapple, brush hog, disk harrow, post hole digger, and maybe a tiller
Tim,

It's exciting getting a new tractor and I think you are wise to reach out and ask for input. I have to say I have purchased 3 Kubota tractors, a Kubota track loader & a Kubota Excavator. I have never purchased a Land Pride attachment from a dealer and in fact have never purchased any tractor attachment from any of the dealers that I purchased my tractors from. I don't think Land Pride is bad in any way, in fact I own several Land Pride attachments that I purchased used on Craigslist. I have asked my tractor dealers for attachment pricing on a number of occasions but always found a significantly better deal on new attachments from elsewhere.

I believe that the attachment market is rapidly changing from the model of manufacturers selling through dealers to manufacturers selling directly to end users, this is pricing out the dealers selling attachments unfortunately but it also creates many manufacturers offering good quality innovative products at reasonable prices, with direct delivery to the end users.

My advice would be to focus on your tractor first and what features or accessories should come with the tractor from the dealer. I understand that you want a B2601, with front end loader and maybe a MMM. You should decide what type of tires you want, there is a different cost for each type and some have adjustable track widths too. Then you should decide if you want the rear tires loaded to help give some ballast when you are using the front end loader. You should make sure your FEL has a SSQA to be able to quickly swap from bucket to forks and grapple. I would add a rear work light fitted to the ROPS, this is a low cost add on that is very useful. In my opinion these are your initial decisions to ensure you get your tractor with the correct basics.

The next thing to consider is the 3rd function valve to provide front hydraulic connections on your loader and if you are going to fit any rear hydraulic remotes on the back of the tractor. I honestly believe that this work can be done at any time and will be the same price, if you are not skilled in this area I strongly suggest that you have the dealer who supplies your tractor do this work. These add on's are expensive and are longer term decisions. I just booked 2 of my tractors in at the dealer to add hydraulics this month, prices are the same as when I purchased them 3 years ago. You need to ask yourself do you need these hydraulics in your use? If you do not have budget restrictions I would tell you to fit the 3rd front function and 2 sets of rear remotes. Uses for the front include grapple, land shark tree trimmer, tree / post puller. Uses for rear include top link or top and tilt links, dump trailer, snow blower, angle blade, attachment with road wheel lift etc.

I suggest you sort those decisions out first and see what your remaining budget is for other attachments.

I recommend a set of forks, if you do buy them consider weight but make sure you buy adjustible width forks, I would also buy a forkframe with a headache rack to provide protection. on my smaller loader I use a set of UA 42", I think these would be a good size for your B2601, Land Pride make something similar maybe lighter PFL12 Series. UA fork frame also comes with a receiver mount option, good to move empty trailers.

I see that you want a rotary cutter or brush hog, I think a B2601 will run a 48" unit if you are cutting heavier cover or a 60" unit if it is a lighter model. In the past I purchased my first units on Craigslist found what really worked for me then upgraded to a new model in some cases and never lost more than $50 for any used attachment that I found through Craigslist. I purchased some attachments and sold them as I learned that they did not really do the job I anticipated or that they were just not needed!

An attachment that I would recommend is a rear ballast box, take a look at palletforks.com they make a version that is not expensive and will carry a compact rear load to help you use your loader. I buy bags of gravel and just drop them into the ballast box.

Another low cost attachment I would recommend is a 3pt receiver hitch, this allows you to tow and move things.

I have purchased a lot of large heavy attachments through Everything Attachments and have never been disappointed with their attachments.. For brush hogs I really like Woods equipment and have heavier cutters. I just purchased a very affordable grapple at MTL attachments, they have lots of models for under $1,000 shipped, Everything Attachments makes a very nice light Wicked grapple but you will spend double. A B series does not have the power or weight to rip up the ground too much with a grapple, select a design that fits your needs, ground work, tearing out brush and / or carrying brush and cut wood.

For a tiller I suggest you buy used and try one, you commented that you only have a days work for one, can you borrow or rent one? Again find out what size and type work for you.

I suggest order and spec out your tractor, decide which attachments you must have right now with the tractor, ask your dealer for the must have attachment pricing and compare whats in the market. Wait until you get your tractor to get a feel of using it and it's capabilities before buying more, consider used attachments.

I've made a lot of suggestions, I hope they help you in decision making.

Good luck getting things sorted out.
 
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Oliver

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L2501
Feb 2, 2011
426
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Preston County, WV
...The flail mower is interesting to me, but I don't think I have the right situation for it. My MMM will do most of what I need. What the flail or rotary mower would be for is the extreme tough situations. Clearing a new path through woods, tackling and overgrown part of pasture with saplings, etc....
For mowing I would start with the 60" mmm. Unlike lawn tractor a B can cut pretty high and through high grass and weeds. My first Kubota (small B) was all I had and I used it to mow my yard, as well the meadow three times a year which it did without any problem. And it looked a lot nicer cut with a mower than it would have with rotary cutter.
 

PaulL

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B2601
Jul 17, 2017
870
165
43
NZ
If you're cutting new trails and new paddocks with the rotary mower, I'd agree I wouldn't do that with my MMM. Once they're cut, you can maintain with the MMM, but if you're knocking down small trees then a brush hog is the right tool for the job. They may also be something you can borrow or rent if you're not using it often - but if you're working it hard you don't want to borrow one then break it.
 

Tim1983

Member
Jan 3, 2021
43
17
8
Wisconsin
Not a lot of options for borrowing, and would like to avoid renting. Seems the used market has a lot of rusty implements, but for many that shouldn't matter assuming the important stuff is clean and greased.
 

B737

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B2601
Jun 9, 2019
959
543
93
New Jersey
as mentioned above, ill 3rd:
- loader 3rd function valve set
- double rear valve set, 3 if it exists, otherwise can be run off 3rd function.
- SSQA and swifttach loader

This is the bulk of the work and will keep you happy the lifetime you have the machine. They will make short work of it while assembling the machine. If you decide to buy top-n-tilt from FitRite, order now because he is 6 months out.
 
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JimmyJazz

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Steiner 425
Aug 8, 2020
317
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Pittsburgh, Pa
Not a lot of options for borrowing, and would like to avoid renting. Seems the used market has a lot of rusty implements, but for many that shouldn't matter assuming the important stuff is clean and greased.
I have what most would consider a light duty brush hog type mower purchased at Tractor Supply about 7 years ago. I think it was around $1,000. Its 6 Ft wide. I had stopped at a proper tractor dealer prior to my purchase and was quoted $6,000 for a clearly superior heavy duty John Deere unit of the same width. County Line I believe is the Tractor supply "house brand". Yes, its probably made in China. No, It may not last a lifetime. I gotta say so far so good. I used it to cut and now maintain trails at my 36 acre mountain farm. Probably 10 hours or less of use per year. I recommend the County Line mower , works great.
 
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nbryan

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B2650HSD ROPS BH77 LA534A 54" Martatch 42" forks B2782B WC68 BB1560 M5-4 hog
Jan 3, 2019
520
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43
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
With a bush hog mower I don't have a MMM on my B2650, but instead got a 48" riding mower for grass trimming work.
The BB1560 box blade is the most mounted implement on my 3pt. It also weighs enough as a ballast to easily enable FEL/forks lifting to maximum load. For working with gravel, earth, snow, for moving, levelling, smoothing, scraping, bulldozing, AND all the ballast I need on the back, it's been indispensable around here.
And you'll eventually want/need pallet forks. Those forks have revolutionized material handling and storage for us here. Pallet crates for firewood, anyone?
I'd add a 3-point hitch receiver as well, for trailer moving, and I use mine for chain hoisting logs to skid them.
My $0.02.
 

ItBmine

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B2620
Jan 21, 2014
999
30
28
Canada
Depending on your dealer, my Land Pride implements were actually cheaper than the no-name brands he offered. Other than the quick hitch. I bought a BE for half the price of an LP.

As said, for sure get at least one rear remote, and LED lights facing forward and rearward.

Some implements cannot be substituted, like a mower and you said you want to till a garden.

But as far as dirt and snow, depending on how much you want to spend here is the order I go by.

1. Loader. There is nothing you can't do with a loader if you have the skills to use it. It can replace every other dirt implement. You just have to work at it to do any job.

2. Box blade. I have a hydraulic angle blade and I never even put it on. Between the loader and box blade I have built a mile of bush road and maintain my other driveways. The box is my favorite rear implement.
But again, if I was on a tight budget, I could do everything the box could do with my loader.

Forks really come in handy too.