I noticed that there was not alot of detail on this in the forum, so thought I would post a couple of photos of a side link I recently made up, using a Princess Auto 4" stroke x 2" bore cylinder (which is the same size cylinder that Kubota would supply for a side link). I also benefited from the measurements provided in 70runner 's post on adapting a leveling box (DIY B26 leveling box) on this forum, so thank you for that.
For the ends I was lucky enough that the local dealer kindly gave me an old left side link, and I had an adjustable link to use as a template. Awkward to fit the 4" range in such a small side link, and have to cut a small amount of length off the piston when cutting the end off.
Used the Kubota side link to set the angle for the ends by cutting it off straight.
Need to be careful with cooling, given how short the piston is, and of course avoid spatter on the chrome. I pre heated a little and then cooled it quite aggressively while peening the welds with a needle scaler, used Arctec 223XC which I have had luck with previously on these cheap cylinders and rods, keeping to 3.2 mm and using short beads before cooling. I did buy a repair kit just in case I burnt a seal, but testing so far it seems OK.
Hope this is some help if you are making one up.
Top link, used a cheap top link cylinder from Vevor.
This side link is fed via diverter valves from one of the rear spool valves, so the diverter valves when closed give the option of locking the cylinder in place if one wants to do that.
15.25" closed length pin to pin.
Pictures follow, I hope..:
For the ends I was lucky enough that the local dealer kindly gave me an old left side link, and I had an adjustable link to use as a template. Awkward to fit the 4" range in such a small side link, and have to cut a small amount of length off the piston when cutting the end off.
Used the Kubota side link to set the angle for the ends by cutting it off straight.
Need to be careful with cooling, given how short the piston is, and of course avoid spatter on the chrome. I pre heated a little and then cooled it quite aggressively while peening the welds with a needle scaler, used Arctec 223XC which I have had luck with previously on these cheap cylinders and rods, keeping to 3.2 mm and using short beads before cooling. I did buy a repair kit just in case I burnt a seal, but testing so far it seems OK.
Hope this is some help if you are making one up.
Top link, used a cheap top link cylinder from Vevor.
This side link is fed via diverter valves from one of the rear spool valves, so the diverter valves when closed give the option of locking the cylinder in place if one wants to do that.
15.25" closed length pin to pin.
Pictures follow, I hope..:
