I've been reading up on all the posts related to doing the initial 50hr maintenance and have been intrigued with the shop vac oil trick. After reading about oil getting sucked up in vac, and what hp to limit to, etc., I decided that I needed to provide a way to vary the amount of suction. I used a clear 1"ID tube and some fittings so I could see if it was sucking fluid. My shop vac is home made from a whole house vac system motor, so I have no clue as to the hp rating. I started with valve wide open, then closed off about half way. No oil and only oil in filter was lost. Very happy with results. BUT......I noticed the oil was just a slight bit brown, which surprised me, because when checking trans level, it's always been so clear it was difficult to see. Will probably call my dealer Tuesday to run it past them. Should I expect to see crystal clear fluids?
B2301 50hr
- Thread starter LowInOhio
- Start date
To answer the fluid question, it will appear clear on your dip stick as would some motor oils after first changing. But if you pour some fresh sudt into a jar, you would see that it is actually colored like any other gear lube on a lighter scale.
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Cglaza, so I'm worried about nothing, like I often do? Thanks
I also received this from a friend outside the forum who is typically knowledgeable on mechanical issues:
Hydraulic oil is slightly brown when new. - I would not change it !!!
In industrial applications the same oil would not be changed in less than 1000 hours, typically several thousand. The only difference is industrial applications try to maintain the temperature less than 150 deg F where mobile applications try to maintain temps below 180 deg F. That being said, I think changing the filter is good in case any impurities were in the system when it was built. But there is no way the oil has started to degrade. Some of the hydraulic articles and forums that I've read claim the largest contributor to contaminants in the system is when new oil is added. Contaminants are the largest source of failure and wear. When it does come time to change the oil you could consider pumping the oil through a filter before it enters the system. Something like a 3 - 5 micron cartridge filter.
Thanks
I also received this from a friend outside the forum who is typically knowledgeable on mechanical issues:
Hydraulic oil is slightly brown when new. - I would not change it !!!
In industrial applications the same oil would not be changed in less than 1000 hours, typically several thousand. The only difference is industrial applications try to maintain the temperature less than 150 deg F where mobile applications try to maintain temps below 180 deg F. That being said, I think changing the filter is good in case any impurities were in the system when it was built. But there is no way the oil has started to degrade. Some of the hydraulic articles and forums that I've read claim the largest contributor to contaminants in the system is when new oil is added. Contaminants are the largest source of failure and wear. When it does come time to change the oil you could consider pumping the oil through a filter before it enters the system. Something like a 3 - 5 micron cartridge filter.
Thanks
The only flaw in the logic of your friend is that industrial applications are generally in constant operation with stable temps. With a tractor application, you have on and off cycles which cause the fluid to warm and cool in a variety of weather conditions. During the cool down cycle of any machine, moisture is drawn in and condensed and held in suspension by the additive package of the oil. The only way to remedy this is to get the machine hot enough to boil off the moisture (which usually doesn't happen due to operating temps and operating durations) or to drop the fluids and replace with new. Remember that fluids are cheap compared to a new machine.
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I think the OP is talking about Hydraulic fluid and not engine oil. 50 hour service schedule on my B2650 says to change the engine oil and filter and both hydraulic filters. I assume he is using the vac trick to change the hydraulic filters and not losing too much fluid. The manual says the hydraulic fluid should be changed at 400 hours so his warranty should still be valid. I know there are different schools of thought on the matter, I talked to my service guy and he said 50 hours was nothing to the new hydraulic fluid.
even though im a tightwad....
having that first 50hr service done by a dealer on paper is pretty important to the warranty......
they have no problems with warranty work if you had that 50hr done at ur dealer.
when a owner says they did it.... that can turn into the owner vs the warranty if there is anything major wrong.
why chance it over $150 service?
having that first 50hr service done by a dealer on paper is pretty important to the warranty......
they have no problems with warranty work if you had that 50hr done at ur dealer.
when a owner says they did it.... that can turn into the owner vs the warranty if there is anything major wrong.
why chance it over $150 service?
For what it's worth I attended a dealer show with my dealer a couple years ago and I talked to two reps from Kubota. They both told me that is a typo in the books and many things got lost in the translation from Japanese to English.
To each his own, but like me they thought it was foolish to potentially do damage trying to save a 4 gallons of oil.
Thye also told me stories of how many excavator final drive warranty claims they see because people won't change the 2.5 pints in each of those. They said that cost you $2500.00
To each his own, but like me they thought it was foolish to potentially do damage trying to save a 4 gallons of oil.
Thye also told me stories of how many excavator final drive warranty claims they see because people won't change the 2.5 pints in each of those. They said that cost you $2500.00