North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
B1550 not starting after replacing cylinder head
- Thread starter jamesrhansen
- Start date
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
So I didn't take the time to read every comment on here due to time restraints but i will tell you that what I was taught in Ohio Diesel Technical Institute before I began my career was that only two things cause white smoke.
1) water in fuel or, 2) low compression.
I had a situation once in my repair shop where the valve job wasn't performed correctly and the compression loss happened as the expense of the machine shop that did the valve job, otherwise I will suggest your problem is either out of time or the valve clearance is wrong. You can check your valves to be sure they are not leaking through the valve seat by baring the engine over to TDC compression stroke and holding the engine from spinning over easiest way would be to put in gear and low range and set foot brake lock. then install air pressure through either the glow plug hole or injector which is either easiest.
Because this may require making an adaptation fitting to hook to your compressed air I would exhaust the other areas first. Timing & valve clearance. If you feel that you set the valve clearance correctly then i would be suspect that the timing is your issue.
remember for this engine to run it only needs compression, atomized fuel delivery (but it must be in time)
If fuel is being delivered out of time then it will not be during peak compression and therefore would come out white.
Go with what you know: you didn't have a water in fuel issue to begin with so that leaves low compression.
I have never seen one of these little diesels apart so I don"t know how the timing is done but I would guess that it has a stacked gear train with timing marks.
So to recap: I would check valve clearance and if that is all correct I would verify timing and if that is correct then pressurize the cylinders with air as I previously outlined and listen thru intake and exhaust for air leaking.
1) water in fuel or, 2) low compression.
I had a situation once in my repair shop where the valve job wasn't performed correctly and the compression loss happened as the expense of the machine shop that did the valve job, otherwise I will suggest your problem is either out of time or the valve clearance is wrong. You can check your valves to be sure they are not leaking through the valve seat by baring the engine over to TDC compression stroke and holding the engine from spinning over easiest way would be to put in gear and low range and set foot brake lock. then install air pressure through either the glow plug hole or injector which is either easiest.
Because this may require making an adaptation fitting to hook to your compressed air I would exhaust the other areas first. Timing & valve clearance. If you feel that you set the valve clearance correctly then i would be suspect that the timing is your issue.
remember for this engine to run it only needs compression, atomized fuel delivery (but it must be in time)
If fuel is being delivered out of time then it will not be during peak compression and therefore would come out white.
Go with what you know: you didn't have a water in fuel issue to begin with so that leaves low compression.
I have never seen one of these little diesels apart so I don"t know how the timing is done but I would guess that it has a stacked gear train with timing marks.
So to recap: I would check valve clearance and if that is all correct I would verify timing and if that is correct then pressurize the cylinders with air as I previously outlined and listen thru intake and exhaust for air leaking.
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
He knows he got the wrong cylinder head. Engine ran before replacement... made in the same place that brought the world Covid 19.
Last edited:
Yes sorry I responded to another reply issue is resolved
Took the cylinder head to a machine shop they repaired the valve seats and valve stem seals and did a valve job and the cylinder head was installed a few days ago by my son and I and it started and is running fine
The machine shop had it for 2.5 weeks they were busy
Thanks for the follow up
I got the correct cylinder head but they did not do a valve job on it they just installed the valve springs and collets and sent it to me. The machine shop fixed everything thing valve seats were redone valve stem seals were replaced and a valve job was performed tractor run terrific now
Biggest issue is Kubota stopped making this part so I could not get a real Kubota cylinder head I had to get a Covid 19 cylinder head
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
That is excellent info for others who may order from Amazon or eBay. Head must be disassembled and a proper valve job done. I guess it's a wash if you were to buy a bare head and reuse your Kubota parts. Thanks for the update.
Especially since Kubota is not offering this part anymore. My Kubota dealer said this part is discontinued. The only option is to buy an after market cylinder head and get a valve job done.
Not really following along. If it's a new head, it should have new seats installed and new valves (I presume) so it would be a simple lap job to insure the faces are seating properly. No?
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
yeah I though so too and I tried to lapp the valves myself but it didn't work compression increased but the fix was to have them re-cut the valve seats when I contacted the seller they didn't even know what it meant to lapp the valves. Good thing is I bought it from Amazon and they have whats called an A to Z guarantee where they make any seller that sells stuff on their website resolve issues with the products they sell. Took almost a month of emails going back and forth and I was refunded the cost of the valve job by the seller. The seller kept saying send it back to them and they will fix is and I kept saying you sent me a defective part and I am not paying $350-400 dollar to ship a part back to them. I told them the A to Z warranty claim will stay open until the issue is resolved.
Thanks for the follow up