Air Compressor Noise ID

[chknscratch]

I have a Quincy 80 Gallon air compressor that sat for probably at least 5-7 years if not longer. I think it was bought new in 94 and used by a guy who spent a lot of time in a shop with at least 10-15 years of use. It then sat in a shed for protection with probably no use for what I assume to be about 5-7 years. I bought it a couple years ago and finally have been using it about 5 months. I changed the oil and put a new air filter on it before powering it on. I have noticed a bit of oil on the coolant coil that runs down a line that I assume is hot oil. It isn't actively dripping, but it will leave a presence on a napkin and again it 10 minutes or so I would think.

My question is: I think it needs a new belt, but not sure if it is a bearing that is making the awful noise in the video. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate any input before I take it apart to investigate. It runs a piece of equipment and refills probably once every 90 minutes more or less throughout the day.

Sorry for the vertical video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HszkgifhwyQ

 

[skeets]

Sounds like belt chirping to me,,, but then what do I know

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Can you tighten up the belt tension to see if it goes away? Does the tension "feel" loose? It is obviously under high load during the compression stroke... did you change the oil or re-oil after working on it? Any get on the belt?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sadly it sounds to me that it's seizing up.
I think your in for a complete rebuild.
But get the belt first, and try that, If I'm wrong the new belt will cure the problem and you'll save some $$.

 

[BadDog]

Yeah, easy cheap stuff first, and in this case that's belts. You can and should check tension, but you likely already know that over tension will be very bad for lifespan. Given the history, it almost certainly needs belts anyway.

But on the up side, Quincy is fairly reasonable on rebuild kits, just don't let it go to failure. And a rebuild will likely last a very long time. I just upgraded to a Curtis, and having a compressor of that caliber is definitely worth a bit of investment to keep it running.

 

[chknscratch]

Thanks guys. I haven't studied if closer for a idler arm or anything to set tension. I will find my exact model and sn and get an order in today for the new belt. Let's hope it is that simple. Although a YouTube video I saw on quincy's didn't make a rebuild look too intimidating. Thanks for the feedback guys!

 

[BadDog]

Most every compressor of that style has slots under the motor, and the motor slides to adjust tension. Just make sure to keep the motor square and the pulleys sharing a common plane so the belt(s) runs straight.

 

[olthumpa]

Please keep us posted with your progress. I am going to have to rebuild mine pretty soon and problems - solutions that you have could help.

 

[chknscratch]

Thanks, BadDog. We had some work to do and I was afraid to adjust it, but I realized it after looking at it the small motor itself is the tensioner in the system based on where it is bolted down along those slots. Thank you for confirming this is exactly what I am looking at. Unfortunately, we got hit with bad weather in Birmingham this morning and we wrapped up at the shop ASAP when we were done with our work. I am going to place an order for a belt once I confirm model number.

I did take pics that I hope to post in the next hour.

 

[bxray]

You can take the belt off.
Remove the output line from the head to the tank.
Then check for play by rotating the flywheel back and forth to see if the rods/pistons loose.
Wiggling it side to side, up/down.
Then around a few times.
It does sound like belt chirp.
Ray

 

[Tooljunkie]

Belt. Take old one to local parts supplier, and get the 4L or 5L series belt, as an A or B series doesen have the raw edge. The raw rubber grips with less tension and is generally more efficient over belts that are completely cloth covered.

Your old belt is definetly glazed, adding tension is hard on bearings in pumps and motors.