Advice for tractor newbie

tractorX

New member

Equipment
KUBOTA L2501 DT 4WD 525 FEL SSQA, 5' BOX BLADE, 42" FORKS, PIRANHA TOOTH BAR
Sep 27, 2013
20
11
3
Rock Spring GA.
Not only will your tractor not do what you need it to in a safe, efficient manner, all your implements will be sized for your too small tractor so if you trade up later your implements are all undersized.
X2!
how many times do you hear a owner/operator say, "wish i had gotten a smaller tractor!"
good advice from NCL4701. if you cant wait or find the l2501, go look at Kioit, Mahindra, Branson, New Holland, etc.
tractor weight is very important. don't settle for less, get the most tractor as budget allows.

btw. i have a gear driven tractor and love it. do most of my work in 2nd and 3rd, doesn't bother me one bit. im retired (put my 90hrs a week in), i dont get in a hurry for nothing or nobody;)
 
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GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S
Apr 2, 2019
2,323
441
83
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
I bought my BX23S 3 years ago as I WANTED A SMALLER TRACTOR. Already have 3 'full sized' ones, including a full loader setup (dn press, etc). Smaller is BETTER for the jobs I use it for. Easier to get into tight spaces,less damage from weight,with SSQA ,SIMPLE and fast to get implements on up front.

Jay
 
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dirtydeed

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650 BH77, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Dec 8, 2017
1,566
426
83
Wind Gap, PA
Order the L2501. I think your wasting your time with the small B for your proposed task list.

Just an FYI, you generally run out of traction before you run out of power. Get the HST.
 
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BigG

Well-known member

Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
Sep 14, 2018
1,563
434
83
West Central,FL
Just re-reading the post and the subject of tires caught my eye. The statement was to get R4 Industrial tires because they are tough. However they are not worth a damn in mud and snow. In 150 acres I am going to guess there is some mud to be found so I would look at the R1 ag tires or the R14 tires to provide better traction.
 
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alter

New member
May 25, 2021
15
1
3
IL
Just re-reading the post and the subject of tires caught my eye. The statement was to get R4 Industrial tires because they are tough. However they are not worth a damn in mud and snow. In 150 acres I am going to guess there is some mud to be found so I would look at the R1 ag tires or the R14 tires to provide better traction.
OK, point taken. I would want to use it in snow on occasion to plow snow on very long driveway. I don't plan on going through the mud but I suppose it's entirely possible. I just don't like the idea of getting a puncture on a huge tractor tire and not being able to use it. I think getting a puncture would be extremely expensive and more importantly time consuming to arrange repairs for, and waiting is a luxury I don't have a lot of since I'm only on the land a limited amount of time.

Edit..even with the addtional 1,000 pounds of weight on the L2501, the R4's are still no good in snow?

Edit#2 I guess with a tire puncture you can just remove tire and bring it to shop to get fixed pretty quickly but still, might take some time. So I have to weigh the pros and cons.
 
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jimh406

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota L2501 with R4 tires
Jan 29, 2021
298
176
43
Western MT
I think the mud/snow comments are exagerated a bit.

The reality is that R1s aren’t great in snow that has been packed or frozen into ice either. You’ll need chains for that. I used mine a bit last Winter. I used chains on the front which are dead simple to put on. The problem is the tendency to slide sideways due to the tread pattern. I have chains for the rear, but didn’t put them on. The people around here that plow with tractors use chains no matter what tires they have on.

If you are a real farmer that can’t just wait for the mud to dry out because you have take bales of hay out or similar, R1s could be the right choice. That’s just not the case for most of us. Either way R4 with chains can work in mud as well.
 
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dirtydeed

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650 BH77, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Dec 8, 2017
1,566
426
83
Wind Gap, PA
OK, point taken. I would want to use it in snow on occasion to plow snow on very long driveway. I don't plan on going through the mud but I suppose it's entirely possible. I just don't like the idea of getting a puncture on a huge tractor tire and not being able to use it. I think getting a puncture would be extremely expensive and more importantly time consuming to arrange repairs for, and waiting is a luxury I don't have a lot of since I'm only on the land a limited amount of time.

Edit..even with the addtional 1,000 pounds of weight on the L2501, the R4's are still no good in snow?

Edit#2 I guess with a tire puncture you can just remove tire and bring it to shop to get fixed pretty quickly but still, might take some time. So I have to weigh the pros and cons.
What is your driveway made of? Is it paved or stone? R-4's aren't great on paved surfaces, but they work just fine on stone. I had bar tread tires (like R-1) on my old BX. They didn't work any better in snow than R-4's.
 
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alter

New member
May 25, 2021
15
1
3
IL
What is your driveway made of? Is it paved or stone? R-4's aren't great on paved surfaces, but they work just fine on stone. I had bar tread tires (like R-1) on my old BX. They didn't work any better in snow than R-4's.
It's a dirt road, hard packed from use, with only sporadic gravel.
 

PaulL

Active member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
945
212
43
NZ
Tires. Snow is a different story than other surfaces. Some people say turfs are best in snow. The reality is nothing works well. You either just live with limited traction, or you get chains. I wouldn't buy my tires based on what they'll do in snow. You didn't talk a lot about snow - do you plan to blow or plow? Blowing is less of a deal with traction, plowing more so, if plowing you'll need chains I think.

Outside the snow work, R4s are stronger, but I've never heard of people getting punctures to any significant degree with R1s. They're agricultural tires, and they're what 90% of farm tractors have. If you're really worried about punctures don't fill the tires - it definitely makes dealing with punctures harder.

I think R4s would be fine, so would R1s. The main difference is if you're driving in soft mud. R4s don't clear as easily, they'll just pack with mud and now they're slicks. If you're only at your property for limited time, then you have to do the work while you're there, you can't just wait till it's dry. But only you know your soil and how muddy it gets. If you're on free draining soil with a bit of stone, R4 may be fine.
 
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alter

New member
May 25, 2021
15
1
3
IL
Tires. Snow is a different story than other surfaces. Some people say turfs are best in snow. The reality is nothing works well. You either just live with limited traction, or you get chains. I wouldn't buy my tires based on what they'll do in snow. You didn't talk a lot about snow - do you plan to blow or plow? Blowing is less of a deal with traction, plowing more so, if plowing you'll need chains I think.

Outside the snow work, R4s are stronger, but I've never heard of people getting punctures to any significant degree with R1s. They're agricultural tires, and they're what 90% of farm tractors have. If you're really worried about punctures don't fill the tires - it definitely makes dealing with punctures harder.

I think R4s would be fine, so would R1s. The main difference is if you're driving in soft mud. R4s don't clear as easily, they'll just pack with mud and now they're slicks. If you're only at your property for limited time, then you have to do the work while you're there, you can't just wait till it's dry. But only you know your soil and how muddy it gets. If you're on free draining soil with a bit of stone, R4 may be fine.
I won't use it often in winter but once in a while might use loader to push snow. Not too worried about it not having enough traction with it's weight and 4x4. If it becomes an issue I can always get chains.
 

alter

New member
May 25, 2021
15
1
3
IL
Ok I had dealer price out a new L2501 with HST, quick attach front and back, FEL, rotary mower, palette forks, box blade, grapple, and 3rd function hydraulics....total with sales tax, freight fees etc was around 30k....and it requires $38/mo kubota insurance....does this sound reasonable? I must admit its more than i expected, but im still considering it. Can anyone say if this is about right?
 

nbryan

Well-known member

Equipment
B2650HSD ROPS BH77 LA534A 54" Martatch 42" forks B2782B WC68 BB1560 M5-4 hog
Jan 3, 2019
551
250
63
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
B2650HST is basically the same as the LX2610. My I'm on 119 acres of mostly forest and my implement list is kept busy year round. You may not need a backhoe, but there's a SURPRISING number of jobs it takes care of. One that pops to mind is stump removal, which you're facing. But a stump grinder simply will not trench 100 feet of water or electrical line for you, either.
 
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ZTMAN

Member

Equipment
BX2380
Aug 26, 2018
83
18
8
South Central Pa
Greetings Alter.

Three years ago, we went through the same analysis for a tractor for our 127 acre hunting camp.

Long story short, we ended up with the BX with a Loader, Box Blade, Rotary Mower and Quick Attach.

Main reason we selected the BX was the size for the work in the woods and on the trails. Does everything we ask, grade trails, push fallen trees, push brush etc...

Admittedly the BX will be slower at performing tasks than what a larger tractor would do but I have the time. I enjoy spending time in the woods grading trails, making food plots pushing brush and using the rotary mower to keep the trails that have grass cut.

Knowing what I know now, I would still get the BX.

The other machines are very nice, you just have to size one for your needs. The neighbor has an L that I hopped on the other day. I would not want to be using a machine that size in the woods with the loader and rotary attached. Very nice but very big.

No matter what you get, add a piranha bar to the bucket.
 
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nbryan

Well-known member

Equipment
B2650HSD ROPS BH77 LA534A 54" Martatch 42" forks B2782B WC68 BB1560 M5-4 hog
Jan 3, 2019
551
250
63
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
Just re-reading the post and the subject of tires caught my eye. The statement was to get R4 Industrial tires because they are tough. However they are not worth a damn in mud and snow. In 150 acres I am going to guess there is some mud to be found so I would look at the R1 ag tires or the R14 tires to provide better traction.
My R4s are worth more than a damn in mud and snow. I was runni9ng them all winter and spring here in the snowy forest and bush. I snowblower cleared a bunch of driveways and work areas. The R4s are not weighted and have no chains.
What's the beef with R4s? Mine work great for everything!
 
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BigG

Well-known member

Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
Sep 14, 2018
1,563
434
83
West Central,FL
My R4s are worth more than a damn in mud and snow. I was runni9ng them all winter and spring here in the snowy forest and bush. I snowblower cleared a bunch of driveways and work areas. The R4s are not weighted and have no chains.
What's the beef with R4s? Mine work great for everything!
They have been a no go in mud for me. As long as they do not spin your are ok but I have had to pull the R4s out of the mud several times after the first spin. If they work for you that is great.
 

nbryan

Well-known member

Equipment
B2650HSD ROPS BH77 LA534A 54" Martatch 42" forks B2782B WC68 BB1560 M5-4 hog
Jan 3, 2019
551
250
63
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
They have been a no go in mud for me. As long as they do not spin your are ok but I have had to pull the R4s out of the mud several times after the first spin. If they work for you that is great.
Different mud here, I guess! There's a fair bit of sand in most of the mud here. And I have been stuck with one rear wheel just off the gravel road shoulder in deep snow. Only twice in 3 winters, and definitely more shy of the road shoulders around here now. But lighter tractors aren't bad to pop out with my pickup and a chain, either.
My one to-the-axle in mud dead stop experience was solved with the pallet forks pushing me out.
 
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alter

New member
May 25, 2021
15
1
3
IL
After researching a lot on the different models, I came across another tractor option that seems interesting. The L3560 Limited Edition ROPS model. The following 2 packages cost about the same:


L2501 HST 4x4
Quick Hitch
LA525 Loader
60" Rotary Cutter
60" Grapple
3rd Function Kit
Pallet Forks


L3560 Limited Edition HST 4x4
LA805 Loader with quick attach
3rd function hydraulic kit


My thinking is, if I go with the bigger L3560 model, I could just pay a few thousand extra and only buy a couple basic implements like a grapple and box blade, and then either buy the other implements from a 3rd party or else buy used to save a bit of money.

The thing that really stood out on the larger L3560 is that it has more HP to power bush hog rotary mowers, and also it has about twice the lifting capacity with the loader, and I do anticipate moving large logs around with the grapple, and even trying to pull logs from the forest or pulling out stumps. Some of the other things on it are not necessary but might be nice to have, such as the upgraded HST with the extra high/low ranges, etc.

So now I'm wondering if I just buy the L3560 with fewer implements rather than all the implements at once. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
 

Matt Ellerbee

Active member

Equipment
MX6000
Jun 27, 2019
396
234
43
Canton, Georgia
After researching a lot on the different models, I came across another tractor option that seems interesting. The L3560 Limited Edition ROPS model. The following 2 packages cost about the same:


L2501 HST 4x4
Quick Hitch
LA525 Loader
60" Rotary Cutter
60" Grapple
3rd Function Kit
Pallet Forks


L3560 Limited Edition HST 4x4
LA805 Loader with quick attach
3rd function hydraulic kit


My thinking is, if I go with the bigger L3560 model, I could just pay a few thousand extra and only buy a couple basic implements like a grapple and box blade, and then either buy the other implements from a 3rd party or else buy used to save a bit of money.

The thing that really stood out on the larger L3560 is that it has more HP to power bush hog rotary mowers, and also it has about twice the lifting capacity with the loader, and I do anticipate moving large logs around with the grapple, and even trying to pull logs from the forest or pulling out stumps. Some of the other things on it are not necessary but might be nice to have, such as the upgraded HST with the extra high/low ranges, etc.

So now I'm wondering if I just buy the L3560 with fewer implements rather than all the implements at once. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
The 60 series is a nice tractor.

I went through the same as you, back and forth. Ended up buying a LX2610. It is a great tractor, I ended up selling, as my father in law wanted to go in together for something bigger for both of us. Enter the used MX6000...

Buy bigger than you need, once.
 
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jimh406

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota L2501 with R4 tires
Jan 29, 2021
298
176
43
Western MT
The implements/attachments are what allows tractors to do the work. It’s not a problem buying used implements/attachments as long as you want to turn loose of the cash compared to financing and aren’t as concerned with implement/attachment failure from being used.

The L3560LE is a very nice tractor especially with the optional stronger loader if you want a tractor with emissions. You can’t lift very much without significant rear ballast.

I went through just a little more approach as well. In the end, I couldn’t justify the bigger tractor for thousands more to do the same work. In my case, I couldn’t forsee a need for a bigger loader or more HP hardly ever.
 
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