Adding rear remote valves L3010

[G Crawford]

Hi: I have purchased a four spool valve with float on each. I will be plumbing in my grapple with one spool, two rear remotes, and one spool in reserve for some future use. Power beyond from my loader valve will feed the pressure inlet on the new valve, and the new valve power beyond connects to the fitting under the tractor that the loader valve power beyond now feeds. I assume this is the three point.
I will put a tee at the end of the tank line from the loader valve, and connect the tank line from the new valve into the tee.
My question is, how much fluid am I going to lose when I open the lines under the tractor? Is it going to drain everything, or will it be a limited amount? Obviously, whatever is in the loader valve lines will drain out. Trying to figure if I should just drain the tractor totally (just did for fluid/filter changes) or catch what comes out. Thank you.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi: I have purchased a four spool valve with float on each. I will be plumbing in my grapple with one spool, two rear remotes, and one spool in reserve for some future use. Power beyond from my loader valve will feed the pressure inlet on the new valve, and the new valve power beyond connects to the fitting under the tractor that the loader valve power beyond now feeds. I assume this is the three point.
I will put a tee at the end of the tank line from the loader valve, and connect the tank line from the new valve into the tee.
My question is, how much fluid am I going to lose when I open the lines under the tractor? Is it going to drain everything, or will it be a limited amount? Obviously, whatever is in the loader valve lines will drain out. Trying to figure if I should just drain the tractor totally (just did for fluid/filter changes) or catch what comes out. Thank you.

Basically only what is in the hoses.

Dan

 

[G Crawford]

Dan, thank you for the reply. That will make much less of a mess.

 

[Nicksacco]

I'd be interested in your work adding the hydraulics.
If you don't mind, perhaps post pics as you are adding.
Goodluck with it

 

[G Crawford]

My parts came in, so I started installing the remotes. I welded a couple of pieces of steel to the existing Bush Hog loader valve bracket to bolt the new valve to.

Then I plumbed up the pressure, power beyond, and tank lines. I inserted a tee fitting into the tank line (which pours fluid until you can cap it off) and ran the grapple lines up front. I used quick connects on the valve so I can take the loader off easily. I used factory hose clamps welded to some adapters I fabbed to hold the grapple hoses.

I forgot to add two fittings, so the grapple quick connects are not yet made up out front. I fabbed and welded a bracket to the hose cover on the FEL to hold the quick connects.

Here you can see the tee inserted into the tank line to receive the lines from the old and the new valves. I have not yet run the rear remote lines. I have to fab a bracket to hold the quick connects, and run the hoses. Budget constraints left me with one rear remote for now, but I plan to add two more when the finances allow. I plugged the unused ports in the valve until then. Unfortunately, it is difficult for me to insert text under a picture for some reason, so the text is out of order with the pictures. More later.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Budget constraints left me with one rear remote for now, but I plan to add two more when the finances allow.

Making progress. Those hoses and fittings can nickle and dime you to death. Custom hose ends can simplify things and actually pay for themselves.

Dan

 

[G Crawford]

Dan, thank you for the reply.
I just got back from my local hose supplier. I got the missing fittings for just under double what I would pay from Discount Hydraulic Hose. I priced a hose there that I have already purchased from Surplus Center. I paid $22.60 for an 84" hose, two wire, 5000 psi working pressure (made in USA) with JIC swivel females both ends. My local guy priced me at $54.50 for the same hose. The reason I went with standard hoses and ends was ease of repair/replacement plus the unbeatable cost for pre-made stock size hose from Surplus Center. If the price locally was $30ish, I would have bought there. They're good folks, and I buy hoses for my 1977 GMC motorhome there. In that case, they are WAY cheaper than the specialty vendors. I'm going out to the shop to fab my rear remote bracket. More pictures later.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dan, thank you for the reply.
I just got back from my local hose supplier. I got the missing fittings for just under double what I would pay from Discount Hydraulic Hose. I priced a hose there that I have already purchased from Surplus Center. I paid $22.60 for an 84" hose, two wire, 5000 psi working pressure (made in USA) with JIC swivel females both ends. My local guy priced me at $54.50 for the same hose. The reason I went with standard hoses and ends was ease of repair/replacement plus the unbeatable cost for pre-made stock size hose from Surplus Center. If the price locally was $30ish, I would have bought there. They're good folks, and I buy hoses for my 1977 GMC motorhome there. In that case, they are WAY cheaper than tpecialty vendors. I'm going out to the shop to fab my rear remote bracket. More pictures later.

Thats a familiar story. Your store is expensive but not as bad as my local Parker store. Just FYI Discount Hydraulic Hose will make custom hoses for a flat $10 each plus the cost of the hose and end fittings. Very affordable.

Dan