just purchased a second hand L3400 HST with loader. It had 400 hrs showing on meter, but looked like they were likely "hard" hours, no maintenance records. The tractor seems to function properly so far. I'm about to complete the rather extensive 400 hour service. I'm new to tractor usage and have a limited knowledge base. I do however, know a couple of attachments or implements I can put to use. A grappler is the first that comes to mind. I have a few acres of land that needs dead tree and underbrush removal. I've found a 3rd function hydraulic system to install, does anyone have any advice, tips or information on this installation? Thank you for your time
3rd function hydraulics for L3400
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TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
It always helps to identify the system you are planning on installing. Assuming your kit is the usual solenoid operated valve mounted on the loader post its pretty simple. Remove loader PB hose from hydraulic outlet block and connect to IN on 3rd function valve. Connect tank port on third function valve to hydraulic outlet block. Hook up joystick switch and run two outlets from third function valve to front of loader.
Dan
I'm not a fan of just buying a 3rd function valve; for less money, you can install a 3 spool valve ($300 price valve) to not only run a grapple, but also a Top-N-Tilt hydraulics on the 3 point hitch. That is IF you plan to use a box blade / rear blade much (it's where T-n-T shines).
For me, I needed the 3ph hydraulics. It was much easier to do road work. You might not need this.
Also, If you already purchased the 3rd function... you might as well install it.
The 3rd function does work easier/better, just press a button to close or open a grapple. But it's at a premium price. The price of hoses are about the same for the two hook ups (which is a big chunk of $$$ for the install).
Just another way to get more function out of your tractor... I don't mind reaching for the lever to close my grapple vs. pressing a button.
For me, I needed the 3ph hydraulics. It was much easier to do road work. You might not need this.
Also, If you already purchased the 3rd function... you might as well install it.
The 3rd function does work easier/better, just press a button to close or open a grapple. But it's at a premium price. The price of hoses are about the same for the two hook ups (which is a big chunk of $$$ for the install).
Just another way to get more function out of your tractor... I don't mind reaching for the lever to close my grapple vs. pressing a button.
Attachments
thank you for your reply. That is another issue I've identified. I am using a box blade to spread and level dirt, then layer gravel on my driveway and shop area. I'm not very familiar with the hydraulic systems yet, so a learning process is in order. It is a royal pain in the neck trying to get the top link tilt and sway bar adjustments fine tuned, mounting and dismounting the tractor so often. The lift arm control stick is not a smooth operator and makes it difficult to correct low/high spots. I haven't heard about the option you suggest. As I have not yet purchased the 3rd function, I will now search for and learn about the 3 spool valve. Sincerely, thank you very much for your time and information
So a couple of pointers, spool valves are rated in Gallons per Minute, our tractors (I have the smaller version of yours but the same hydraulics) are rated for about mid 6 GPM. The spool I posted earlier is 8 gpm (you can buy cheaper 11 GPM or more but you lose fine touch).
Prince is more expensive, you can buy even cheaper Summit valves and use a needle valve to "fine" tune your speed. (need adapters to fit these inline)
My setup does use needle valves which can slow the speed down to be able to easily feather the speed at which the piston will move. I use one on the top link and side link but for the grapple, full flow to open and shut.
One thing I did wrong (well more expensive) was to use a bunch of 45* angle connectors to connect hoses. If you buy the hoses with the correct ends (swivel nuts with the correct SAE #8 threads) you can avoid cost over runs. Hoses that have a bend of 90* already mounted.
To get down to basics; you need to decide where you want to locate your valve. Once mounted, you can measure the length of hoses you need. Hoses are more expensive than you think... buying pre-made or from discount hoses helps. Make sure the ends are correct!!!
Back to vavle location, Since you have to reach for them to close the grapple or adjust the 3ph; I removed my cover of the FEL and used those holes to mount a square chunk of steel (to mount the valve on). This way, I am able to disconnect the "power beyond" hose from my FEL and mount it to the new valve's power beyond port. (One less hose to buy)
Power beyond is fancy term for High Pressure Out...
Next was to connect the old Power Beyond from the FEL to the IN Port of the new valve (you hook them up in series) one after another. (this is a New hose with the correct ends, I made a loop from the old "out" - power beyond to the new valve's IN port).
Then you need to tie the two return to Tank (low pressure out lines) together. You already have one going from the FEL to the tank, it's just a few connections to add the new 3 spool valve to it.
Knowing what stuff is called is most of knowing hydraulics... FYI, you'll need a plug to convert the Prince valve to have Power beyond ability This thing
If you have questions, just ask, even if it's just to understand it better... the more you know... I can post photos but I think this was already WAY too long of a thread....
Prince is more expensive, you can buy even cheaper Summit valves and use a needle valve to "fine" tune your speed. (need adapters to fit these inline)
My setup does use needle valves which can slow the speed down to be able to easily feather the speed at which the piston will move. I use one on the top link and side link but for the grapple, full flow to open and shut.
One thing I did wrong (well more expensive) was to use a bunch of 45* angle connectors to connect hoses. If you buy the hoses with the correct ends (swivel nuts with the correct SAE #8 threads) you can avoid cost over runs. Hoses that have a bend of 90* already mounted.
To get down to basics; you need to decide where you want to locate your valve. Once mounted, you can measure the length of hoses you need. Hoses are more expensive than you think... buying pre-made or from discount hoses helps. Make sure the ends are correct!!!
Back to vavle location, Since you have to reach for them to close the grapple or adjust the 3ph; I removed my cover of the FEL and used those holes to mount a square chunk of steel (to mount the valve on). This way, I am able to disconnect the "power beyond" hose from my FEL and mount it to the new valve's power beyond port. (One less hose to buy)
Power beyond is fancy term for High Pressure Out...
Next was to connect the old Power Beyond from the FEL to the IN Port of the new valve (you hook them up in series) one after another. (this is a New hose with the correct ends, I made a loop from the old "out" - power beyond to the new valve's IN port).
Then you need to tie the two return to Tank (low pressure out lines) together. You already have one going from the FEL to the tank, it's just a few connections to add the new 3 spool valve to it.
Knowing what stuff is called is most of knowing hydraulics... FYI, you'll need a plug to convert the Prince valve to have Power beyond ability This thing
If you have questions, just ask, even if it's just to understand it better... the more you know... I can post photos but I think this was already WAY too long of a thread....
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Actually, Your thread wasn't quite long enough. Knowing and understanding the terminology associated with hydraulics is obviously my first lesson plan. The procedure you explained is like a foreign language to me right now. If it would not be too much to ask, a few photos of your installation would open a new world of cognition to me. If I can see it, I can more easily understand it. I'm not the person that drops something off at someone else's shop for them to do the work or modifications. I have to do it myself, sometimes I'm successful and other times it's just something else added to "the list". That list seems to grow larger more than smaller, but I am determined to get this tractor modified for my needs. I look at the costs of parts and time as my tuition for higher learning and your time and experience is invaluable. Thank you for extending them to me. I believe this thread may be useful to others seeking similar modifications as well
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Keep it simple.
The third function kit you were considering is just a single spool electric valve that is operated by a button on the loader joystick rather than a separate lever. It is the standard configuration for a loader third function like a grapple or snow plow angling cylinders.
If and when you have a need for additional functions you can easily add more valves.
The circuit is just a simple daisy chain as shown below. In your case the loader valve is valve 1 and valve 2 is your 3PT. The electric third function would go between valve 1 (loader) and valve 2 (3PT) and it WILL NOT have the T line. If you add additional remotes that valve would go between the third function and the 3PT and it WILL have the T line. For most people a loader third function and 3 additional remotes is more than adequate.
Dan
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BUT at what costs??? I will add photos to this thread - but just got back from 400 mile trip with several stops... I have the photos to post but the energy tonight is lacking... (sorry)
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Additional remotes are easy to add and relatively inexpensive. I have done many. Take your pick of an off the shelf directional control valve and add some hose and connectors. Ballpark number of $200 per spool including hose and a set of outlets depending on how fancy you want to get with the couplers.
I just had a nap and I am fresh. Here are some of my pictures.
I got kinda fancy with this panel. One hand push/pull couplers with breakaway protection and automatic dust doors but still very affordable and IMO a significant improvement over the OEM offering. The left most set of couplers are constant flow for a log splitter and have their own selector valve for switching the on/off as needed.
Custom hose assemblies add greatly to the fit and finish but get expensive fast if you cant make your own.
Monoblock valves are a dime a dozen. The little Prince valve mounted on the loader post is my quick and dirty third function.
It will go away when I finish the OEM style sectionals shown in the last two pictures. I have added a mounting pad for an electric third function solenoid valve to my manifold design. That keeps its tucked away under the seat rather than an ugly wart on the side of the loader. Believe it or not the hardest part of that project has been replicating the crazy handle arrangement used on the OEM remotes.
Dan
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hey Dan, that's just beautiful. Seeing the install on your tractor makes a world of difference. Thank you very much. I'll let you know how it turns out
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Thats a lot more than third function!!
Looks fine but if the 3 spool valve is a good one and matched to the tractor hydraulic system it should provide all the metering control you need and the needle valves should not be needed.
I don't see any plumbing or outlets in that kit. Is that all customer supplied? If so if gets pricey quick.
Dan
Looks fine but if the 3 spool valve is a good one and matched to the tractor hydraulic system it should provide all the metering control you need and the needle valves should not be needed.
I don't see any plumbing or outlets in that kit. Is that all customer supplied? If so if gets pricey quick.
Dan