3 pt grader blade vs box blade

Palmettokat

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Apr 21, 2020
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No.. That is exactly wrong. A 3-point hitch has no DOWN pressure like a road-grader/maintainer. The rear blade floats up/over hard-packed areas and grass and does not “level” the ground. Without rippers, a rear blade cannot deal with hard-pack, and even loose gravel will move around the blade ends depending upon how the blade is/is-not angled and by how-much. If anyone wanted a rear blade I’d GIVE mine away if it weren’t for the fact it was inherited from my wife’s Father. It makes a good yard-art memory of a long-gone loved one but otherwise, in my opinion, has limited usefulness.
I never said the tractor had rear down pressure, I said it works like a road plow blade, it does in the way you can rotate it and tilt it. I also wrote a pull type box blade will give much better results than one on the 3pth for the same reasons you point out of the road plow but seems you missed my comment on the pull box blade.

I have been able to use a rear blade and cut hard packed dirt road that a 3pth box blade would just slide on. Many people have no idea how to use a rear blade to cut with. If you run it straight as a box blade is you will get the results you are experiencing. The third arm, the tilt and the rotation of the blade all come into play. If you have ever used what some call mold board plows or turn plows or bottom plows they and a rear blade are much alike. You have to get the angles of the plow or the rear blade set correctly so the blade slices the dirt, sort of like using a knife to whittle a stick. It is possible the rear blade you have needs a new blade also. If you are working in heavy rocks no rear blade would work well and don't think a box blade would either unless the rippers are doing the work. That is based upon a few hours of using a rollover box blade in the hill county of Texas couple of years ago. My standard 3pth box blade would have been a joke trying also.

I have never worked snow but I see all kinds of snow plows use what is basically a rear blade, but mounted on the front. They are able to cut the snow and to some degree ice I understand and also push the snow or roll the snow to one side or the other. Never seen one run with the blade straight as a box blade is made. Why would that design work so well with snow and not dirt? Both can be hard or easy to work and both can need to be push to a side or cut. Realize I am going out on limb for again I have never worked with snow but watching them on video and news sure look to work the same.
 

GreensvilleJay

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Ok, so we all got off the OP question....
I had to lookup what his tractor is, maybe 20HP ( '17 ' seems to be the HP rating...)

If the 6 foot blade is old, it'll be HEAVY and odds are the tractor may not be able to pull it well, let alone lift. The blade could weigh 500# or more, something we don't know.It needs to have tilt and rotate for the job.
The OP use is to move material from the sides of his gravel drivewau back to the center. As long as he can get it going, it'll do the job.

To 'maintain' a gravel driveway, late farmer cross the street dragged a heavy beam and chains, every sunday after church, before lunch. he had the BEST driveway in the county.

As for 3PT, there appears to be at least 3 different types.
1) basic lift up,
2) 1+added draft control
3) 2+added power down

Anyone know of a chart, maybe post it here. If I buy a bigger tractor it'll have to be a number '3'.
 

GeoHorn

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I currently have a 5 foot box blade and am getting ok at running it. I found a 6 foot grader blade close and cheap. I am thinking being able to pull material towards the center of the driveway may be nice. Any advice or input would be appreciated.
PitViper, ... I have to say that I did forget a point that GreenvilleJays post brought back to my attention... that being, Your main intent is to pull loose material back to the center of a road... In that effort a simple blade might do fine. I’m sorry that I immediately thought only of my disappointment in the performance of how I attempted to use mine on a hard, dry-packed road. With both a plain blade and a box blade others are correct, you’ll likely have the ability to do either.
 

Palmettokat

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M6800, B2710, L6060, Volvo 5 ton excavator and implements.
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If you have the tractor weight and may need front weight to keep your tires running straight you can do well with a rear blade rotated to move gravel or dirt up the road bed. If you rotate it a lot and take a heavy cut doubt your tractor will be able to keep it running straight.

As to the question on tractor with built in down force, that is a feature the JD 4000 and right off don't remember if the R or the M model does. Outside of that model no idea who offers it. One issue with it I think, will make it harder to line up manual for lift pins. Not sure on that, but seems it would. For you guys with hyd tilt function does it give down pressure?

To the OP sorry if I ran away from your concern.
 

GreensvilleJay

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one last digression...
The GREAT thing about having 3PT downpressure is the abilty to easily change rear tires/rims.......especially if they're loaded or weights on them !!!
 

PitViper

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Thanks for all the replies. I ended up getting it. Have not used it yet, but it’s n the arsenal lol.
 

Lencho

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Hi Pitviper, I agree with your first post - pulling material in to the driveway from the edges with a boxblade is difficult. The rear blade is great at moving material laterally. I also got a box blade first and it is my go to tool for driveway maintenance but it leaves the edges high. I also have a heavy rear blade and it really pulls the gravel into the center and also tilts so it can cut ditches too.