Question for everyone out there. Looking at a quick change set up for the 3 point. Looked at the Pat's system, as well as the standard 1 piece plate. Any advice? Pros and cons? Thx and God Bless
3 point quick change?
- Thread starter Pipewelder
- Start date
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
That's sweet the PAT's method. Been brainstorming on this too but my idea required modifications to the implement too. This is way better. Each Pat works sorta works like a Ringfeder type hitch.
I was thinking of forks that attach to the lower tractor bar that slide into slots on the implement with an auto latch of some sort that flips into pin holes or over a post. Only then have to attach the top link. But...... if you have to get off the tractor to attach top link.... you might as well attach the bottom links too.
Burt
New member
Equipment
L3700SU, box blade, 6 foot rhino blade, 1 bottom plow, 3 point receiver hitch.
Pipewelder,
We got the Pat's quick hitch and the longer top link from them. Pat's will extend your bottom links about 4 inches. It is a great system. If you combine Pat's with Hodges stabilizers you won't go wrong.
Pat's quick hitch makes it easy enough that my wife can hook up the 3 point implements by herself now.
We also considered the HF and other similar hitches and found them inexpensive and OK. We finally settled on Pat's. Even though they cost more, they are worth it.
Incorrect use of the HF types can cause fender damage. Dropping an anvil on your foot can also cause damage.
Burt
Haha, that's priceless!! Yeah Wiley Coyote hates those anvils as well. Pats looks like a good fit. How do you hold the arms steady as you're backing into them though? With the plate setup it seems as though it would remain stationary enough to hook. Then just lean back and trip the levers and you're off to the races. I don't have but a few implements but I need to make sure the dimensions will work. Thx and God Bless.
I bought a pair of quick connects. Upon moving things back, a couple shafts end up too short. My three point wont carry as much. My solution- make new lift arms and weld connects on the outer ends.
So far its working out good for my needs.
So far its working out good for my needs.
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
So you shortened your fabbed lift arms the length of the Pat's like connects keeping the over all length the same?
Hi Pipewelder we have 3 Bx's with quick hitches, the one thing that you have to do is make all your implements adaptable which is usually adjusting the top link bracket. Once you've done that it only takes a minute to switch implements and with some (without PTO shafts) you don't even have to get off the tractor. They will also move your implement 4" back so before you buy make sure your drive shafts are long enough. Now that I've used them I wouldn't be without one.
I went with pats because the few implents i do have, they are different widths. Yes i have to get off the tractor to hook up, but its better than stock. I made dollies for all my implements so i just roll them up and hook up. With Hodges stabilizers they are a perfect pair. They stick out a little farther as mentioned but i havent had any problems with my stock top link.
Thx everyone. I'm going to get on the horn later and see if I can't get some coming soon. Once everything is finished I'll be sure to post pics, Thx again and God Bless all and have a safe day.
Burt
New member
Equipment
L3700SU, box blade, 6 foot rhino blade, 1 bottom plow, 3 point receiver hitch.
Pipewelder,
Your arms will stay steady with Hodge's stabilizers. The distance between the various 3 points implements is easily handled. There is a very expensive tool...I use a 1/4" dowel. I mark the distance between the "flanges" of an implement I'm going to hook up, mark each with a different color marking pen AND name. That way, I can set the stabilizers exactly where I need to be when backing up. Most of our implements are within an inch of each other anyway.
Just back up slowly and square to your 3 point like Pat's QH videos show, lift, hop off, adjust your top link and get to work! Just watch out for that anvil!
Burt
If you purchase your attachments and select a common pin distances, you can avoid some of the changes noted earlier here to accommodate those different widths. Then you can live nicely and easier with the fixed systems.
HighSierra79
New member
Equipment
B7100d, M6800 w/FEL, 7' mower, 7' box blade, 42" LP tiller, 5' rake
On the fast attach systems, we solved implement width by the purchase of 6ft Steel tubing, cut and slid those over the existing pins, then ran bolts thru original pin holes to secure. No more worry about narrow or wide. Run a HF QH on b7100. QH works on tiller, rake, two cultivators, 50 gal sprayer, 2row planter, etc. Oh, QH costs $103.84 to my door.