2020 - LX2610 Fr Loader Block Heater

[Mik]

New to site here ladies and gents, I purchased a new LX2610 fr loader and it did not come with a block heater are they easy to install? Is there a site where I can get an idea on what they cost ?
I have inquired about one from the dealer but yet to hear back from them
Thanks in andvance

 

[Dave_eng]

New to site here ladies and gents, I purchased a new LX2610 fr loader and it did not come with a block heater are they easy to install? Is there a site where I can get an idea on what they cost ?
I have inquired about one from the dealer but yet to hear back from them
Thanks in andvance

Installing a block heater on new(er) tractors is not a do it yourself job.

The glow plugs are controlled by an electronic timer. The Controller relies on the engine block temperature to determine how long the GP's should operate. With a block heater, the GP controller senses a warm block and provides minimal to no heating time.

When you crank the engine, it is inhaling very cold outdoor air regardless of the block temp and the engine struggles to fire.

The dealer will re program the GP controller to use a different temperature sensor (outdoor air) which means that the GP heating time will be based upon outdoor temps and starting will be immediate.

It could be that the latest Kubota's already use a GP temp sensor other than the engine block but best to verify with your dealer before ending up with a less than satisfactory operation.

Dave

 

[cjh]

I just installed a block heater on my 2650 2 weeks ago. Very simple to do. Remove a plug on the lower left side of the engine and screw in the heater. Took me longer to clean up than it did to actually install the heater. 2650 needed a 17mm allen key to remove the factory plug. Autozone has these for $7 or $8. I think the price was around $80.00 for the heater kit and it was in stock at my dealer. Drain the coolant before you start and you will have no issues. The factory plug was in pretty tight and took a good amount of force to remove, but it wasn't bad. Give yourself 45 minutes to an hour to do the job. I can't imagine the heater kit for the 2610 is any different than the 2650.

 

[Mik]

Installing a block heater on new(er) tractors is not a do it yourself job.

The glow plugs are controlled by an electronic timer. The Controller relies on the engine block temperature to determine how long the GP's should operate. With a block heater, the GP controller senses a warm block and provides minimal to no heating time.

When you crank the engine, it is inhaling very cold outdoor air regardless of the block temp and the engine struggles to fire.

The dealer will re program the GP controller to use a different temperature sensor (outdoor air) which means that the GP heating time will be based upon outdoor temps and starting will be immediate.

It could be that the latest Kubota's already use a GP temp sensor other than the engine block but best to verify with your dealer before ending up with a less than satisfactory operation.

Dave

Dave I am confused, they said my tractor was not computer operated at all I wanted basic, I will follow up w them today
Appreciate the help

 

[Mik]

I just installed a block heater on my 2650 2 weeks ago. Very simple to do. Remove a plug on the lower left side of the engine and screw in the heater. Took me longer to clean up than it did to actually install the heater. 2650 needed a 17mm allen key to remove the factory plug. Autozone has these for $7 or $8. I think the price was around $80.00 for the heater kit and it was in stock at my dealer. Drain the coolant before you start and you will have no issues. The factory plug was in pretty tight and took a good amount of force to remove, but it wasn't bad. Give yourself 45 minutes to an hour to do the job. I can't imagine the heater kit for the 2610 is any different than the 2650.

Cjh thanks I will also ask about this method, all the research I have done was what you we’re talking about , let you all know
Thanks

 

[Dave_eng]

Dave I am confused, they said my tractor was not computer operated at all I wanted basic, I will follow up w them today
Appreciate the help

I agree your tractor engine is not computer operated but likely the glow plugs are controlled

Dave

 

[Mik]

I agree your tractor engine is not computer operated but likely the glow plugs are controlled

Dave

I got what your saying, I did call them today and they had a block heater in stock , about 80 dollars I believe that is what I am looking for TY

 

[Dave_eng]

I got what your saying, I did call them today and they had a block heater in stock , about 80 dollars I believe that is what I am looking for TY

This the story I was trying to convey to you: It involves a M7040 2012 which is pre emission computer but the GP's are controlled as far as ON time is concerned.

Kubota glow plug operation

In very cold weather, with the block heater plugged in, the glow plug controller will lock out the glow plugs as it senses a warm engine.

However, starting, in these circumstances can be rough and worrisome as the engine is still inhaling very cold air.

The trick is to put the shuttle shift lever in forward and turn the key to the start position.

You will hear a relay click on. I count to 10, put the shuttle back into the neutral position and start the engine.

This is controlling the GP's manually. No lights come on on the dash.

Makes an amazing difference when the engine starts.

On newer models, M7060 perhaps, Kubota realized the problem and provided software which would allow the dealer to set which sensor decided the GP on time. When owners of the M series tractors install their own block heater, they won’t get the software change and need to use the manual way to control the GP’s

I know there are GP work around on other Kubota models but I was only interested in M7040’s at the time.

I learned of this undocumented feature from a Kubota mechanic who was moving around many machines for snow clearing. It was very cold and the fact that he had no trouble getting them to fire caught my eye.

Dave

 

[trueg50]

Unfortunately documentation is sparse even on a common B2601; its not in the workshop guide, manual, and the instructions for it are pretty sparse (it is very generic due to the amount of engines its used in).

My install was very simple on a B2601, just remove the little fuse box (1 button) and then pop off the plug. Just make sure you have enough thread sealant, I did ~3 wraps and I'm still getting a very very slow leak so I have to pop it off and do it again.

Here is a Townline (out of NH/VT) video on an install. the plug and block look identical and are in the same area as on the B2601.

 

[Orange1forme]

I believe that the B series are NOT computer controlled for the glow plugs.
For the B2650 at least, you control the glow plug time by the key position just before the start position.
You can bypass the plugs in warm weather by a normal turn of the key, like in a gasoline powered automobile or pause just before start for your desired time to engage the glow plugs before continuing on to start.

 

[Orange1forme]

Just did my heater today.
The most time consuming thing for me was running the plug wire and zip tying it up neatly!!

The plug broke loose easily, so much so I thought it was the wrong size allen or the breaker bar stripped the extension head.

1 3/8" socket, $4 from Amazon.

Lost a little coolant, but nothing to be too worried about.

I did raise my loader to get it out of the way.
Of course, removed the side panel.
I also employed a third hand to hold the wire/hoses out of the way and give me a straight shop with no tension on the ratchet extension.

Ran the tractor up to normal temp while running the plug wire and then let it cool, no leaks. I will keep an eye on it.
I used 3 wraps of teflon tape and pipe dope. I am wondering now if the factory uses a thread sealer rather than teflon tape/pipe dope.

All in all a quick and easy project.

 

[trueg50]

Just did my heater today.
The most time consuming thing for me was running the plug wire and zip tying it up neatly!!

The plug broke loose easily, so much so I thought it was the wrong size allen or the breaker bar stripped the extension head.

1 3/8" socket, $4 from Amazon.

Lost a little coolant, but nothing to be too worried about.

I did raise my loader to get it out of the way.
Of course, removed the side panel.
I also employed a third hand to hold the wire/hoses out of the way and give me a straight shop with no tension on the ratchet extension.

Ran the tractor up to normal temp while running the plug wire and then let it cool, no leaks. I will keep an eye on it.
I used 3 wraps of teflon tape and pipe dope. I am wondering now if the factory uses a thread sealer rather than teflon tape/pipe dope.

All in all a quick and easy project.

Good to hear it went smoothly. As a follow up, I ended up tightening the plug and have been leak free since.

Normally I don't see any value in "Smart home" gear, but for the tractor/block heater I made an exception. I bought an Amazon Alexa plug and use that with my block heater. I can turn it on when I'm at work, on the couch etc.. or schedule it to come on at a certain time so the tractor has a warmer block when I need to do a quick cleanup before headed to work.

 

[Orange1forme]

Normally I don't see any value in "Smart home" gear, but for the tractor/block heater I made an exception. I bought an Amazon Alexa plug and use that with my block heater. I can turn it on when I'm at work, on the couch etc.. or schedule it to come on at a certain time so the tractor has a warmer block when I need to do a quick cleanup before headed to work.

I will be doing the same.

I will also use one for my battery maintainer.

 

[Orange1forme]

I will be doing the same.

I will also use one for my battery maintainer.

Ran a new circuit for the outlets, used a GFCI/AFCI panel breaker.
Installed 2 gang box, 4 receptacles, so 2 are used for the smart plugs and 2 open for whatever when smart plugs in use.
Ran 2 cords overhead and dropped them down right next to the left side of the tractor. Nothing to trip over or run over and they will easily be out of the way when not needed.
Tested operation of both and very happy.

That brings me to my question.
I know the time will vary depending on ambient temperature, but how long is a normal run time for the heater?
Is there a too long?
It was 45° today and I ran the heater for 2-2.5 hours and the dash temp gauge had 1 bar showing.

 

[trueg50]

Ran a new circuit for the outlets, used a GFCI/AFCI panel breaker.
Installed 2 gang box, 4 receptacles, so 2 are used for the smart plugs and 2 open for whatever when smart plugs in use.
Ran 2 cords overhead and dropped them down right next to the left side of the tractor. Nothing to trip over or run over and they will easily be out of the way when not needed.
Tested operation of both and very happy.

That brings me to my question.
I know the time will vary depending on ambient temperature, but how long is a normal run time for the heater?
Is there a too long?
It was 45° today and I ran the heater for 2-2.5 hours and the dash temp gauge had 1 bar showing.

Good idea on the power, you can never have enough outlets and options to pull power from. Just make sure you get in the habit of plugging in the tractor and making the cord very visible and very in the way. I have my cord/outlet on the left side of the tractor so I run the extension cord through my steering wheel so I don't forget to unplug the block when I go to use it (or someone else uses it).

For running it, I don't think there is a too long, the engine gets pretty toasty. You are just warming the block to make it easier to start, its not like older tractors that might require a heater. I've heard of guys that would leave the heater on overnight so the tractor would start in the morning.

Up here in VT I keep my tractor in an unheated barn to keep the snow off and out of the wind. Last winter I was usually warming for 20-30 minutes and she would start up almost immediately. I haven't tried in any -20 days before, usually single digits to teens.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

You won’t be sorry. I have a block heater in both of mine. They start easier in the winter when plugged in than they do in the summer unplugged. Have fun in the snow.

 

[Orange1forme]

Good idea on the power, you can never have enough outlets and options to pull power from. Just make sure you get in the habit of plugging in the tractor and making the cord very visible and very in the way. I have my cord/outlet on the left side of the tractor so I run the extension cord through my steering wheel so I don't forget to unplug the block when I go to use it (or someone else uses it).

It is only the wife that need to know about this.

When the tractor is charging, and now when the block heater is plugged in, the hood is up.
I thought about making it so I could do all this without raising the hood, but decided the hood up was a good "safety" feature to unplug the cords.