I've got a b1700 i bought about 2 months ago everything has been great with it till I went to mow the grass yesterday and it won't start. Turn the key on all the lights come on but the starter won't engage. I can jump the starter solenoid and it spins. Not sure where to go next.
1998 b1700
- Thread starter justinhull28730
- Start date
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
This is exactly what a bad safety switch would do.
Look at any safety switch and make sure it is working. Not sure how many switches are on your tractor but there is one for the clutch pedal to operate and possibly one for the PTO to be sure it is off. There may be others but I think your tractor is older with just a couple of switches.
Look at any safety switch and make sure it is working. Not sure how many switches are on your tractor but there is one for the clutch pedal to operate and possibly one for the PTO to be sure it is off. There may be others but I think your tractor is older with just a couple of switches.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Yes you can usually bypass the switches.
On my L185 there is one for the clutch that is a simple plunger that is open when pedal is up and closed when pedal is down. So simply connecting the wires without the switch bypasses the switch. They have made it more difficult over time by putting the switches in difficult places and having multiple switches in one place but you should be able to do it.
Just remember that the safety switch is there to protect you from doing something stupid and killing yourself. So be careful.
One thing that has been suggested is to hold the key (or switch) in the crank position and move any lever or pedal that has a safety switch on it, one at a time. If the tractor starts to crank then that is the problem switch - probably!
If your tractor is hydrostatic transmission the pedal has to be in neutral! And that is the usual problem switch. Sometimes it is the PTO lever switch.
On my L185 there is one for the clutch that is a simple plunger that is open when pedal is up and closed when pedal is down. So simply connecting the wires without the switch bypasses the switch. They have made it more difficult over time by putting the switches in difficult places and having multiple switches in one place but you should be able to do it.
Just remember that the safety switch is there to protect you from doing something stupid and killing yourself. So be careful.
One thing that has been suggested is to hold the key (or switch) in the crank position and move any lever or pedal that has a safety switch on it, one at a time. If the tractor starts to crank then that is the problem switch - probably!
If your tractor is hydrostatic transmission the pedal has to be in neutral! And that is the usual problem switch. Sometimes it is the PTO lever switch.
That is the same kind that's on mine I'm seeing one for the pto and one for neutral selector both of those look to be working fine I've even tried to manually close them and it's still not doing anything. Might try to bypass them.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
As Russell said - check that clutch safety switch - I had the same problem on one of my B7100's
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You may have a problem with the key switch or just the wiring to the starter.
You have confirmed the starter and solenoid are both working properly by jumping the solenoid. That test eliminates the cables as a possible problem but it won’t hurt anything to clean the frame to ground cable connection well.
I would suggest that you see if you are getting any voltage to the end of the solenoid activation wire. Usually a spade connection and probably a black wire with a white stripe. You may have removed it to jump the solenoid??
My tractor has a key switch and a separate switch for glow plugs and cranking. You can investigate where you are getting a good voltage to and make sure it is passing through the switch well using a voltmeter. Sometimes it is just dirty switches that limit the voltage or amperage below the required amount of the solenoid.
I sometimes just bypass the switch by jumping across the terminals to see if the starter activates. Just use a good gauge wire and don’t short it to ground by accident!
You should be able to find the switch with problems pretty easily. But a wire problem is a bit more difficult. I would just bypass the wiring harness with a new wires to see if that resolves the problem after checking on each switch (since wires are less likely to fail than a switch).
You have confirmed the starter and solenoid are both working properly by jumping the solenoid. That test eliminates the cables as a possible problem but it won’t hurt anything to clean the frame to ground cable connection well.
I would suggest that you see if you are getting any voltage to the end of the solenoid activation wire. Usually a spade connection and probably a black wire with a white stripe. You may have removed it to jump the solenoid??
My tractor has a key switch and a separate switch for glow plugs and cranking. You can investigate where you are getting a good voltage to and make sure it is passing through the switch well using a voltmeter. Sometimes it is just dirty switches that limit the voltage or amperage below the required amount of the solenoid.
I sometimes just bypass the switch by jumping across the terminals to see if the starter activates. Just use a good gauge wire and don’t short it to ground by accident!
You should be able to find the switch with problems pretty easily. But a wire problem is a bit more difficult. I would just bypass the wiring harness with a new wires to see if that resolves the problem after checking on each switch (since wires are less likely to fail than a switch).
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
On my L185 the clutch switch is on the opposite side of the tractor from the pedal. There is a rod that runs through the case and rotates a tab to push the switch. Switch is slightly in front of the brake pedals and a bit higher.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Is your tractor geared or hydrostatic transmission? Maybe update the model number in your profile? I think there are a few different B1700 models.
You can also look at illustrated parts lists at Kubota USA dot com to find stuff. It is not always easy to find exactly what you want to get to since they put stuff in weird places in the diagrams.
apps.kubotausa.com
You can also look at illustrated parts lists at Kubota USA dot com to find stuff. It is not always easy to find exactly what you want to get to since they put stuff in weird places in the diagrams.
Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List
- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams