12V outlet for ROPS M7060HD?

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WildlandFirefighter6070

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So, as most of you know the open station M7060s do not have a 12V outlet for a charger for your phone, etc. I've looked in the forums and all I have seen it about some other model or the enclosed cab M7060s. I am trying to figure out what wire I can use to wire for this plug as I am trying to get my fan operational since it's 100+ degrees here in South GA. I tried tapping into the seat sensor hot wire and for some reason, it popped the fuse for the dash. I undone the tap I ran to the seat sensor wire and put a new fuse back in the dash port, so now my dash cluster works fine and the gauges read.

I'm wondering if it has something to do with my 12v outlet since the whole thing is metal, but it has ceramic where the hot wire doesn't touch metal.

Is the seat sensor wire fine to use? If so, I may switch to a plastic housing 12v outlet. If the seat sensor wire isn't good then where can I tap into? I hate to have to run a wire ALLLLLL the way to the battery, but if that's the only way then I guess I have to do that.
 
TheOldHokie

TheOldHokie

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WildlandFirefighter6070 said:
So, as most of you know the open station M7060s do not have a 12V outlet for a charger for your phone, etc. I've looked in the forums and all I have seen it about some other model or the enclosed cab M7060s. I am trying to figure out what wire I can use to wire for this plug as I am trying to get my fan operational since it's 100+ degrees here in South GA. I tried tapping into the seat sensor hot wire and for some reason, it popped the fuse for the dash. I undone the tap I ran to the seat sensor wire and put a new fuse back in the dash port, so now my dash cluster works fine and the gauges read.

I'm wondering if it has something to do with my 12v outlet since the whole thing is metal, but it has ceramic where the hot wire doesn't touch metal.

Is the seat sensor wire fine to use? If so, I may switch to a plastic housing 12v outlet. If the seat sensor wire isn't good then where can I tap into? I hate to have to run a wire ALLLLLL the way to the battery, but if that's the only way then I guess I have to do that.
Click to expand...
I would think the seat sensor circuit is way too light for a fan motor. Thats why you blew the fuse.

A properly fused feed from the battery or fuse box would be my choice.

Dan
 
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GreensvilleJay

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curious... since they offer a cabbed version, I would think there's a power feed under the dash ? If so ,it'll have BLUE electrical around it ??
 
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JasonW

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I have an open station M6040. I installed an auxiliary fuse block ran to the battery under the dash tied to a relay so it’s only powered with the key on. I have lights and a fan all going to the aux fuse block. The fan on mine is a 12” radiator fan listed at 80w.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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WildlandFirefighter6070 said:
158972[/ATTACH] 804379, member: 66360"]
So, as most of you know the open station M7060s do not have a 12V outlet for a charger for your phone, etc. I've looked in the forums and all I have seen it about some other model or the enclosed cab M7060s. I am trying to figure out what wire I can use to wire for this plug as I am trying to get my fan operational since it's 100+ degrees here in South GA. I tried tapping into the seat sensor hot wire and for some reason, it popped the fuse for the dash. I undone the tap I ran to the seat sensor wire and put a new fuse back in the dash port, so now my dash cluster works fine and the gauges read.

I'm wondering if it has something to do with my 12v outlet since the whole thing is metal, but it has ceramic where the hot wire doesn't touch metal.

Is the seat sensor wire fine to use? If so, I may switch to a plastic housing 12v outlet. If the seat sensor wire isn't good then where can I tap into? I hate to have to run a wire ALLLLLL the way to the battery, but if that's the only way then I guess I have to do that.
Click to expand...
My L35 had an extra space in the fuse block, but it didn't have any contacts. So I just used a fuse tap and a 10A fuse. My fuse block is under the dash, so it was a short run. I did have to trim the cover a little to get it back on. You can get one at Advance, Amazon, etc.
1000006356.png
 
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WildlandFirefighter6070

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PoTreeBoy said:
My L35 had an extra space in the fuse block, but it didn't have any contacts. So I just used a fuse tap and a 10A fuse. My fuse block is under the dash, so it was a short run. I did have to trim the cover a little to get it back on. You can get one at Advance, Amazon, etc. View attachment 158972
Click to expand...
I looked at the fuse block but there's no contacts in the empty spots to get hot.
 
TheOldHokie

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WildlandFirefighter6070

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PoTreeBoy

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WildlandFirefighter6070 said:
I looked at the fuse block but there's no contacts in the empty spots to get hot.
Click to expand...
With the fuse tap, you remove an existing fuse and put it in the tap to power the existing circuit. Then install a new fuse in the other slot of the tap to power the pigtail to your new circuit. Make sure the tap is oriented correctly, the instructions tell you how.
 
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TheOldHokie

TheOldHokie

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WildlandFirefighter6070 said:
The fuse block should already have a hot wire from the battery to power the fuse block, correct? So then I need to slide one of these in then run that wire to the 12v plug...the plug is already grounded.
Click to expand...
Possibly more than one supply. Nothing.in there should be electricslly grounded.

Addon panels are cheap and easy to add.

Dan
 
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WildlandFirefighter6070

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PoTreeBoy said:
With the fuse tap, you remove an existing fuse and put it in the tap to power the existing circuit. Then install a new fuse in the other slot of the tap to power the pigtail to your new circuit. Make sure the tap is oriented correctly, the instructions tell you how.
Click to expand...
I've used one before on my dash cam, but im not sure which specific fuse would be best to tap into.
 
TheOldHokie

TheOldHokie

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WildlandFirefighter6070 said:
I've used one before on my dash cam, but im not sure which specific fuse would be best to tap into.
Click to expand...
It does not matter - you are not using the fuse. You are extending the DC+ buss contact to supply an additional fuse.

BTW, you can acvomplis the same thing using an inline fuse with the cc supply wire wedged into the buss contact alongside the OEM fuse.

Dan
 
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