L3200 Tire Ballist

Jewing3227 · Jan 10, 2012

Hello all, I'm new to the site as well as a proud new owner of a L3200 w/ the 524 FEL. I purchased the R4 tires with the unit. It is the HST model. My wife and I recently puchased 8 acres of woods and I have been using it to help with the clearing process. The tractor has plenty of power for what i'm using it for. The question I have has to do with liquid ballist for the rear tires and possibly the front. The tractor seems to "spin" fairly easy and even with the diff lock engaded. I'm just wondering would doing the liquid ballist in the rear tires aid in less wheel spin and more power to the ground.
The other question I have and I read on here somewheres about it is with the size of the L3200/3800 will the liquid ballist wear parts quickly. A guy I work with siad with the ballist in the rear tires, when you load the loader up it more or less uses the front tires as a folcrum per say. He was of the opion the front end would wear out fairly quick. Also, when the fella dropped my tractor off, I asked how popular was it to have the tires filled, he replied alot of people opt to not have tires filled with the L3200/L3800 as they are really not big enough of a tractor to benifit from it.
I'm at a lose on weather or not to have this done. Can I have a few of you guys who have the L series chime in.

bcbull378 · Jan 10, 2012

I have a L3830 with the rear tires filled with water , I wouldnt have it any other way , I dont have ballist in the front tires I have never felt the need to do so. In the event you feel the need for a little weight in front and your not going to be using the FEL you can always fill the bucket with dirt or what ever is handy.

Stumpy · Jan 10, 2012

As for wearing out the only problem you'll have there is if you use calcium chloride or some other corrosive tire ballast. Liquid ballast places no additional load on the tractor's bearing as long as you don't stop or start real quick and even then I wouldn't worry to much. More info here

Bluegill · Jan 11, 2012

Stumpy said:
As for wearing out the only problem you'll have there is if you use calcium chloride or some other corrosive tire ballast. Liquid ballast places no additional load on the tractor's bearing as long as you don't stop or start real quick and even then I wouldn't worry to much. More info here

Yeah, that's the way I've always understood it. The weight is in the tires and on the ground. Same with wheel weights.

One thing I've noticed, is a heavy loader and/or bumper weights on the front can really wear out the front end components.

Jewing3227 · Jan 11, 2012

Sounds good guys, looks like a possible DIY in my near future. I read in the articles Stumpy put the link too and it appears the only ballist they are saying an individual can do at home is the water. Wonder why a guy couldn't come up with a way to do lets say the 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water from your garage. Possible lay the tire on it's side or something. Any ideas or is it just a pain.

ipz2222 · Jan 12, 2012

Do not put staight water in the tires unless you have tubes. Some tire stores will not service tires with liquid ballast in them. If you use water, add at least 30% automotive antifreeze. Tractor Supply has a valve that screws into the air valve to push water or antifreeze in.

Jewing3227 · Jan 12, 2012

What is the best way to push antifreeze in the tire? I seen a video on youtube where a guy bought a cheap marine pump from harbor freight and pushed washer fluid in tires on his lawnmower. I guess it would work on tractor tires also. Thanks for the help. Oh yeah, one last question.......does anyone have a link as to roughly the gallons it takes to fill the fronts and backs in a R4 tire? Thanks again

CBMAMF5 · Jan 13, 2012

Why mickey mouse around with stuff not designed to be mixed with water as tire ballast. Use Rimguard. If you spill it, no big deal. I could definately see a shop not wanting to touch a tire/rim filled with water/anti-freeze.

Jewing3227 · Jan 14, 2012

Well I picked up a decent drill pump and some hose aswell as a kit to screw on the valve stem from tractor supply. I know a fella at one of the local tire dealerships and he said he's gonna save the next 55 gal drum of used antifreeze for me. I think like most I might just fill the rears and leave the fronts alone. Thanks for all the input gentlemen.

meanjean · Jan 14, 2012

I used a pump from a 3pth sprayer.
it wasn't a high flow pump, took some time.

The most important piece of advice for you:
-Try to fill tires without removing them.

I removed and laid them on their side to fill.
Tire valve was tough to get to, that's why I removed.
Tire went from 50lbs to 120lbs and were a struggle to get back on.

Also
-Make sure the valve stem is at the top when you go to fill the tires.
-Allow for spillage.
-Get a rough idea of how many litres you need. You may be better off pumping from a 4 gallon pail. This allows you to monitor the quantity.

skeets · Jan 15, 2012

Ok I cherp in here as well,,, my last couple of little tractors had wheel weights,, with the Bota I filled the fears with 50/50 anti freeze. Havent had a problem with anything and my little beastey get used. Jack the tractor up, and turn the wheel so the tire valve is at 12 o'clock and pull the valve let all the air out, then what I did was us an old 2 gallon pressure sprayer with the wand take off and used a needle valve like for filling foot balls and basket balls cut the end of it off so it was open. Filled the sprayer and pumped it into the tire. NOW HEAR THIS,, then the mixture starts to come out of the tire valve ,, thats enough,, put the valve back in and pump it to the proper pressure,, lower the tractor and do the other tire,, Another thing is RV anit freeze expencive but still worth it,, heres a link to read that might help

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/2009/01/6-reasons-to-liquid-ballast-your-kubotas-tires/

Peace
Skeets

Bluegill · Jan 15, 2012

I just found out my new 3800 has fluid in the tires.

Now I need to call the dealer and find out what they put in there.

meanjean · Jan 15, 2012

No need to call the dealer.
Spray a little into your mouth, kinda like milking a cow!

Jewing3227 · Jan 15, 2012

The drill pump i picked up is rated at 650 GPH @ 2000rpm so hopefully it won't take long. I believe the R4's that come on the L3200 / 3800 is
15 x 19.5. 75% is approx. 30 Gallons per tire. I forgot what size the fronts are but they hold 7 Gallons per tire. The weight gain should be roughly 235-240lbs per tire in the rear and somewheres around 60-65lbs in each front tire.
I'm still not 100% sure if I really want to do the front or not since it already has a FEL. I thought abut buying antifreeze and thought on it a little more and come to the conclusion that it is gonna be inside a tire and theres really no since in putting brand new liquid in it. No difference really i would think. If everything goes as planned i'll have $20 in the whole process which to me is pretty good considering what some shops want to do the job. Just gotta wait a few days for a barrel now!!

meanjean · Jan 15, 2012

The price is right at $20.
No need to do the front tires.

Bluegill · Jan 16, 2012

meanjean said:
No need to call the dealer.
Spray a little into your mouth, kinda like milking a cow!

LOL What flavor am I lookin for?

skeets · Jan 16, 2012

Check with your local auto scrap yards or salvage yards,, I found a place up this way you could get USED anit freeze for a buck a gallon,,, dont think I would want to run it in anything but it works well in the tires,, OH and remember when your puttin the stuff in,,,,, ya gota let the AIR out

Jewing3227 · Jan 29, 2012

As bad as I hate to say it I ran into some problems trying to load my tires this morning. The anti freeze is used so it looks to be thicker than new might be and I'm not sure if that played a roll. I jacked the tractor up and with the tire in the 12 oclock position, removed the valve stem cores an let all the air out. Hooked the liquid adapter up to the valve stem and a hose from the 55 gallon drum sitting approx. 3 feet away from the tire to the drill pump and then to the adapter on the valve stem. Pulled the trigger and it was like the line needed primed. I then took the hose from the tank and proceded to fill the line with water and then quickly stick it back in the tank while simutaniously pulling the trigger on the drill. Still nothing. I went to sit the drill and pump down on the floor and the darn liquid adapter pulled into at the joint and at that point I pretty well gave up. I'm usually pretty good at these type of things but I was at a lose. I don't know weather or not to try and find a small 120 volt inline pump from harbor freight or somewheres along those line. Looking back I wonder if the drill has to spin so fast to get the fluid flowing. I tried a Dewalt XRP drill and then a Makita drill that was 110 volts. I thought one of those would have worked but they didn't. Back to the drawing board

meanjean · Jan 29, 2012

Can you post a pic of the hand drill, I'm not familiar with it.

Get an electric pump, you will have it figured out
How much anti freeze do you plan on putting into each tire?

Jewing3227 · Jan 30, 2012

I'm sorry, not a Makita but a Milwakee hand drill. It's a basic drill, nothing special.
Meanjean--- I've researched the amount needed and at 75% it's 29-30 gallons of fluid. I've got about 45 gallons of used antifreeze in a barrel so I guess i'll try and pick a small electric pump up and give that a shot. Thanks

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