Adhesive for cracked hood on BX1850
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Captain13
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M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
That plus if you can, on the backside run a strip of something gauze or some open weave material and soak it with JB.
I just used JB Weld for plastic on a Peterbilt fuel tank fairing and it worked great. It's really tenacious stuff. I strip of reinforcing behind it will make the repair much stronger too.
Don't remember where I read it , but some glues,JB weld won't stick to the plastic kubota uses. Cleaned it with alcohol, break cleaner, still will not stick. It's something about the oil in the plastic. Also anyone use any of the plastic welders, from Harbor Freight? Thanks
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You hit it on the nail head, it's not the fact that it's plastic, it's the type of plastic that you are working with that makes it problematic.
I would recommend the cheaper version of welder, less chance of distortion of the base material, and get more rods, I do believe the material they are using for the parts is polypropylene (PP), but confirm that is you can by marks or numbers on the plastic.
https://www.harborfreight.com/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html
Pau7220
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L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Get a hot layer of weld down. Grab some fiberglass mesh to put down, then put another hot layer of weld over it. The reinforcement is everything especially when you can get to the backside.
If you can ID the plastic type from a mold stamp, there may be a repair epoxy for it. You'll have to check with a body shop supply house. It will work best over the completed weld with more mesh reinforcement, especially if it's a vibrating high stress area. Plastic epoxies are very specific to their application. If not matched, they'll peel like Bondo off a spreader.
Edit: I see the H/F kit comes with steel mesh.
If you can ID the plastic type from a mold stamp, there may be a repair epoxy for it. You'll have to check with a body shop supply house. It will work best over the completed weld with more mesh reinforcement, especially if it's a vibrating high stress area. Plastic epoxies are very specific to their application. If not matched, they'll peel like Bondo off a spreader.
Edit: I see the H/F kit comes with steel mesh.
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i have a BX2350 and my plastics are not in terrrible shape but i have a couple of small cracks..... on the wrap around front/side panels. of course i would like to prevent the cracks from becoming an issue. would i buy the plastic welding iron thats 80w or go for the 800W unit?
North Idaho Wolfman
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The 800W unit is nice if you can work quickly, to much heat and you could just blow through or warp the heck out of what you're working with.
I like the 80W iron style unit because you and work slower and in tight spaces.
Here is another trick, use a strip of steel window screen (aluminum wont hold heat long enough), have the BBQ very close, pre cut the piece and heat it up and then drop it onto the repair area, it will imbed itself partially in the plastic then just help it in with the iron.
Butch
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Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
I repaired my neighbor's Deere plastic hood. I used the nylon mesh drywall tape and "GOOP" applied in 3 over lapping bonds on the hood inside. So far it has held for at least 4 years and counting. GOOP is a very strong adhesive that is self leveling, and relatively clear. Cures in 24 hours. The main characteristic for GOOP is there is a lot of elasticity and flexibility after it cures. Flexing and vibrations do not attack the repair. GOOP specifically for plastic can be purchased at ACE Hardware and the big box home repair stores.
i ended up replacing mine through my local dealer, was around $200 i think. I wonder if anyone has fitted a later model metal hood as a retrofit....
Finally got around to attempting to try repair hood. Put down not too bad plastic weld. Looks like interstate 81 pave job. Too much smoke,and fumes coming off for me to do fine tune job. Probably take B737 suggestion and get new one. thanks for all the ideas. Tried to upload pictures but didn't work.
I agree with In Utopia about backing the crack with fiberglass mesh. It will help it from not cracking as easily.