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I kind of thought I wanted a short bottom, but the MTL look attractive. Its not Hardox, but I can face it if need be down the road.

I honestly am torn on how many lids. I can see the advantage on either and the disadvantage as well. By long bottom style you mean like roughly a bucket depth tine? I think I would do better with short tines like the homestead ones. As far as using any of my local dealers, I would rather...

I want a root grapple for my MX5100. I was leaning towards EA but, well that is not going to happen. Who else makes a good grapple and what size would be best? I am not afraid to run equipment to its limits so it should have a reputation of being stout, but at the same time I do not want to...

I feel the same way. It was a large investment, I want to keep it nice. I have not tried TSC paint (Majic brand I believe) in a couple years, It looked good after spraying, but it was pretty terrible as far as not fading.

When I'm not waxing and detailing my tractor in a carpeted, climate controlled garage, I use it outside. Just last week I brought a bucket load of mulch to the edge of the paved driveway, but I didn't want to drive across the grass, way too risky. Someday I hope to brave enough to put it in...

Yes you are correct about the color fastness of red. My personal opinion is Kubota just didn't care about the paint as it took years before it was supposedly remedied. There certainly is paint that will defend better against the elements, they did not apply it. I had zero luck at my automotive...

Ha! It varies panel to panel on my tractor. The fenders might match each other, every other piece is its own hue, some close, some not so much. Minus the cowl, it gets a break for being plastic, the loader is the worst, not even close to the machine.

Like many of us here my tractor suffers from factory paint (orange 2) that was fading right off the dealer's lot. I run a buffer across everything yearly, just to freshen it up, but at some point I will run out of paint and it will need to be repainted. I wanted to test the fade resistance of...

By using the spacer pictured I would be free to use the BH subframe as a custom mount for other implements....if they fit.

I will just be using the tractor side of the spacer as a mount and will cut off the BH side

I have a MX5100 with a BH subframe. I want to put a custom implement on the back and will be using the BH subframe as a mount. The easiest way to do seems to be to use a cab spacers 7K505-17010 and 7K505-17030 as a basis for the new mount. I contacted my dealer to check my parts cross...

I just did the 50 hour service on my gear drive MX5100, I changed the hydraulic filter and was a little shocked with the amount of trash stuck on the magnet. I have a loader so there is a lot more going on than a bare tractor. I can understand some metal paste but I had multiple 1.5" long...

I recently picked up a MX5100 which is rated at 52.2hp. The same V2403MT as an industrial engine is rated at 59hp. What is different on the industrial engines?

S/N 62565. Interestingly enough the dealer did not ask the serial, just gave me a price and that part. I am not putting a Kubota hoe on it, but for our intents we can pretend I am going with a BH92 I found that number along with similar format numbers for the remotes etc on Kubotas parts...

I need a subframe for my MX5100 and the dealer is coming back at $1250. That appears to be list price? For whatever reason I dont get many hits searching for BH4978.:confused: I realize this is a real Kubota number but is there a number that is in the typical xxxxx-xxxxx format?

I need to pull the upper end on my L345. For the cost of just the head gasket I can get all the top end gaskets. Are there problems with aftermarket gaskets or should I stick with OEM?

I purchased the WSM for my L345DT and was very disappointed. It is very brief and only covers clutch change, power steering and some other random issues. It by no means is a complete WSM for the entire machine, I would call it a suppliment to the actual manual, but that is the only one listed...

My 345 does the same thing. The pto side of the clutch is locked. I pull the fuel lever and get the RPM's down low while pulling into PTO gear then release the fuel lever. If you do it right you dont grind. Still sucks brushhogging not being able to clutch fast but I dont have the time to...

This is the squared off style and more modern style I am referring to. I would rather not have the squared off version.

I have a L345DT thats covered by the ROPS program. My dealer does not know what it will look like only the cost. Is this the older straight two post style or the newer "light bulb" shaped style. Does it fold?