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Does the different ball nut interface correctly with the gear on the pivot shaft in the B7100 steering box?

I have the HST version. I'd settle for replacing the whole steering box with something else entirely, but in lieu of that, fixing the one I have (again) seems like the best course of action. I already replaced the shaft once, and this time the nut broke off the lower tooth.

I'm slowly getting around to finding parts to fix the latest round of breakages on my B7100. Have managed to source a prop-shaft end for the 4wd system, not the forward most end like I actually needed, but the one back from it. So I have to shorten it a bit, and drill a hole, but it'll work...

My B7100 just killed its second aftermarket steering shaft/nut. This time the lower 1/4 of the nut snapped off. The first one died because whoever repaired it (before me) didn't put in the correct spacing shims, and it chewed up the bearings. Before I go out and buy another aftermarket...

Great idea, I'll do that! The roll pins on either end of this shaft were both still present, just in three pieces each, and no longer doing the job they were meant to be doing.

There's no master spline - that slip joint yoke can go on whatever way you feel inclined. The slip yoke was offset 45 degrees from the fixed/pinned yoke, so unless they were trying to split the difference between inline and 90 degrees, it's out of phase in any case. I had misremembered the...

Well, I found the problem, and the cause. The shaft had been assembled incorrectly. The two ends should be 90 degrees out of phase to account for the rotation of the universals. They weren't. The slip joint between [17] and the spline was seized solid (12 tonne press moved it, but with some...

It seemed to me like it was the outer end of the spline/cup that was worn, and that it was holding fine when properly inserted. BUT, I was shoving some firewood around today, and lost the front drive again. I haven't had a look to see what failed this time. Will keep you posted!

Thanks for the guidance team, I found the trouble. A broken roll-pin at each end spline connection had allowed the prop shaft to move back enough to fettle the spline on the front diff connection. Eventually, and purely coincidentally, it broke loose not long after I poked around in the front...

I recently had the front axle apart on my B7100 chasing an oil leak, and a grumbly noise. The oil leak was a damaged gasket, and the grumbly noise turned out to be flogged wheel studs. Everything else in there looked almost new despite being made in 1976. All seemed to be running just fine again...

I'm hearing it will probably work, but is likely too much for the tractor. The manufacturer suggests 25-35hp, and the guy selling it says his 26hp tractor barely breaks a sweat running his one, so thinks it'd be fine. It's much too far away to try out unfortunately (~18hrs drive each way)...

Can a 16hp B7100 drive a 6 rotor 1.3m (51 inch) power harrow? The guy selling the power harrow thinks it should be fine, but he's running his on a 26hp machine, and there's quite a jump between 16 and 26hp! I'm happy to do a couple of passes, and not expect to bury it 200mm deep in compacted...

Hi again - I replaced the shaft and ball nut assembly in my B7100 with an aftermarket one that looked identical to the one I took out (albeit in much better shape) BUT, I'm coming to the conclusion that this is not the first aftermarket shaft assembly to have gone in there! All was good at...

30" is pretty standard for market gardens on this scale - that's 762mm in Kubota measurements, so 800mm gives me a tiny amount of clearance either side. I'd imagine that the leverage would effectively be applied from the middle of the tire contact with the ground, so a narrower wheel/tire would...

I'm wondering if it's sensible (without breaking things) to widen the rear of my B7100. I'm using it in a market garden, and my beds are 800mm wide. With my turf wheels in the outermost hole on the standard axle, I have 500mm between the wheels. I'd need to push them out another 150mm each...

Mine is HST 4WD. The parts guys have a new aftermarket steering shaft and nut assembly which they say will fit - they had me measure the existing one to be sure. I sure hope they know what they're talking about - I've got jobs to be doing, and all the other issues are fixed now!

I can't get replacement split tubes anywhere, and these ones are beyond repairing. So, unfortunately I've had to throw down some cash on a completely new steering box. Can't win them all I guess, and I've been winning with all the other issues on this machine, so I won't complain too loudly...

Well.. I sure went about that all the long way! I swapped the tank and 3PL lines to the opposite outputs on the FEL valve block, and now the 3PL works. If that little hex plug in the output means that it can handle the back pressure from the 3PL, then I'm all done with this particular...

Yeah, that's definitely the way mine is plumbed currently. Once I get the new bolts for this cylinder head, I'll swap the C and T hoses around and see if it magically starts working! Fingers crossed that's all it was.

Actually... just re-reading dave-eng's earlier post. If 'C' is for high pressure carryover, and 'T' is the tank port.. is my problem simply that I have inherited a machine with the 3PL plumbed into the tank port, and the High Pressure carryover port plumbed into the tank? Could it be that simple?