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I got it. . . gave less then asking price for a pretty nice tractor...looks a runs as if it has hardly been used.

w. loader. Everything works good. Haven't driven it yet. Seller doesn't know if hour meter works which either means it doesn't work or seller has not used the tractor much/long. What's a right price for machine assuming good condition and engine hours ~1000?

UPDATE: long over due to follow this one up! I changed the oil right after this and I haven't noticed any issues. The oil color looks normal and I'm not loosing coolant.

Update: line welded and hydraulics work GREAT!

BTW, you can see a pic one this thread.

Hey all, I'm seriously considering upgrading to more hp and a loader, so I'm thinking about selling my L1500DT. It's running great and handles my 5 acres pretty well, but I have a few "big" jobs in mind. I did a steering box overhaul on it and had a crack in a hydro line welded. Steers like...

Planning on adding FEL and at least one remote to L1500DT. Vic had a nice article on tapping the line once, but I'm wondering how I should set up for two diff. control valves (both open-centered), one for FEL and the other for remote. I modified a pic from hoyetractor.com/remote.htm for what I'm...

It's a little weird when someone joins the forum who has a very similar name... but welcome anyway!

My parts people just said they could longer get that particular part number. I'm going to go ahead with the weld fix for now and replace O-rings/gaskets, but I'd be interested in a price quote if you (Vic) can get a new one. I'm thinking that the shaking on line over the years will cause...

I know of nothing rebuilt, supposed to be running very good.

I knew you would know, Vic. Thank you much!

One additional note in case it matters ... I have an imprint on my tractor: L1500DT-18777 which I assume is a serial?

I have an L1500DT, too, and it should be the same as the L175 except for some PTO gears and the final drives on the front. They're beasty little machines, aren't they!?

In case it makes a diff, here's a pic. The line is one solid line from pump to 3-point... no bracket or block as in some diagrams.

It's a 75 hp

kytim, Maybe you've tried, but this place sells a shaft+nut for 125 (link), and claims to fit a B7100. Halfway down that page they sell a "steering ball tube kit" which may be enough to get your nut working. Or maybe you can match up a Yanmar (link)? I'm assuming you've tried messicks.com, in...

Thanks...will do.

Sure enough, the crack is in the line itself. Now I have to see if its cheaper/better to hire a weld job or buy a new line. The parts diagram on an L175 (mine is L1500dt, but equivalent) show three options depending on serial, so I'm unsure which one (is vick around?): 34150-38210 or 34159-38215...

Ha... welcome to the department of redundancy department. Just had to make fun of myself. Thanks pat331, I'll check into it!

Ha- the lab was no help...and it was still blasted cold outside!