Search results

I don't think he did. Just slapped the valve train on as it was. I still suspect valves and seats though.

I had to replace the dipstick in my G1800 because it was so loose where it seats. You can't just buy the seal, have to buy the whole stick.

Make sure those washers you are using on the head studs don't interfere with the valve cover and gasket installation.

Look up repairing cracks in vinyl seats on youtube. I had good success with the one I did a few years ago on a John Deere riding mower after watching a bunch of videos.

Good catch. Looks like the other side is lined up.

One thing for sure, Joe's play by play documentary and photography are spot on. Virtually all pictures are crystal clear.

Saw scabbard looks great!

The video shows you rocking the crankshaft back and forth, not rotating. You are turning the clutch and flywheel mass in this situation too. That will not give you the feedback on the crankshaft freedom of rotation you need to know.

No apparent lube on the bearings or journals. :mad: Reusing old main seal on the crankshaft.:mad: Now you are faced with installing pistons, oil pump, oil pan, etc. while lying on the ground. You should consider the block installation a test run.... Pull it back off now and do a proper...

I don't have anything to offer regarding your project. I'm just glad you have a nice shop with a concrete floor. The tractor looks fantastic! You will "figure it out" based on another thread I am following. :)

I did away with the fusible link when I completely rewired my machine. It may have something to do with the glow plug circuit, not sure about that.

My G1800 calls for a 67111-55190 fusible link. There is a picture of it on Messick's website. They don't give the rating though. The battery cable is tight for sure. I used a combination of split loom, tape, and wire ties to keep it from all the things that would damage it.

An old trick I have used with some success over the years for a down and dirty test. Pull the dipstick and hold a lighter to the tip. If it lights on fire, it is diesel fuel, if it pops and sizzles, it will be coolant. Of course, that won't help if it is getting hydraulic oil in the crankcase...

Buddy, the engine with the hole has had a catastrophic failure. There is no telling what damage has occurred. Microscopic cracks are possible everywhere, crankshaft, block, rods, etc. not to mention bent or out of tolerance components. You are way deep in both of these engines. Have you...

One thought has already been stated, no machine shop wants the project because you already installed the liners yourself. I don't think you ever stated where you are located. Many members here have knowledge and connections all over the place. Something to think about....

Thanks rudder, I just ordered that one from Amazon, should get it sometime Sunday.

Well crap, DB shows it unavailable right now.

I do believe mine is direct drive based on pictures I took the other day and comparing to the parts book. DB has a gear reduction starter for $107.33 with free shipping, going to order one and I hope it will fit.

I looked at DB and all they showed was a dynamo for my machine.

My problem is definitely not in the wiring circuit. With the start wire disconnected, I can hold the key in the start position all day long. Connect the wire back up and it blows the fuse immediately. I completely rewired this machine over last winter including doing away with the "confusion"...