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Yep, 2 stage clutch. Some have a little lever to flip up to block the clutch pedal so you aren't stopping/starting the brush hog needlessly just to change gears.

model V2203-DI

From the couple questions you asked I get the feeling you are a little new to this. Maybe there's nothing wrong, a brush hog will spin for quite a while after putting it in neutral. Don't let it fool you, it can go for a couple minutes. As to speed, run the engine up to rated RPM (2600) when...

It dawned on me (after a good dose of chocolate brownies) there's a fuse to protect the alternator and regulator if the battery shorts out. I have no idea where it is but lurking somewhere. The part book show a rather standard fuse block with from 3 to 8 fuses.

Without a wiring schematic or trouble shooting guide; before you start throwing parts at it I'd start with a look at the brushes in the alternator. Maybe one is gummed up with dust and chaff, breaking contact.

Make sure connections at the alternator are clean and tight and also at the regulator. It only takes 1 wire with some corrosion to shut off the alternator.

Oh dern right! first things first! It always works out I'm doing tractor work/maintenance before shopping on the way home. Then I go shopping smelling of diesel fuel and sweet 90W gear lube. If a "lady" in her finest froo-froo gives me that look, I look her in the eye casually, sniff the air and...

I would guess the glow-relay would be the one that has 2 smaller wires (18-20 gauge) and 2 heavy wires, (12-14 gauge).

Hmmm, the picture in the parts book shows the mounting bracket running front to rear, with the glow relay on the side toward the steering column.

The relay is inside the dash-board cowling, toward the top/right side. take a look at http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx accept terms, enter your model number, do a "book search" by "part name," type in "relay glow." That'll lead you to a picture of what I mean.

I'd confirm the valve lash is correct. Have the radiator boiled/rodded out. If it still does it, run in 3rd gear.

Like a wonder-bar.

Right, there's a plate on the right side that you can remove and gain access. It is also handy if the PTO or drive clutch plates rust-up and won't release; you block the clutch down, open the plate, use a prise and knock the offending clutch disc free from the rust.

There is an internal adjustment for the PTO section but your solution would be faster and probably easier.

Sounds a bit like the neutral switch on the motion pedal. Try slowly carefully easing it forward/reverse/forward while trying to start.

About 9 Volts is OK. If they read under 5 ohms they should work. The indicators get covered with dust and soot so may not seem as bright as before. To double check their continuity make up a test lamp with a lamp socket out of an old tail-light with a couple long clip leads on it. Put in a 12 V...

The parts page doesn't depict a fuel filter.:confused: If you really expect water drain the fuel tank into a clean container, treat it dry-gas. It is fuel injected so it may not be as simple as draining a float-bowl to get the system cleaned out.

Since you mentioned heat related, have you tried hosing out the fins of the radiator and the seed-screen? You'd be stunned at how much gunk gets jammed into the radiator where you can't see it.

Backing-up always has done the job for me, plus maybe steering left/right when backing.

I'd start with cleaning and tightening the 4 ends of the 2 battery cables. Check for swelling at the battery ends of the cables; swelling of the sheath indicates internal corrosion of the copper conduction, it will read some voltage but will not carry current enough to light the dash lights...