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You likely got water into the injectors and fuel pump and that will take a lot purging. Make sure you are getting straight diesel at the IP first then at the injectors and then you will need to purge the injectors. OH ya change the fuel filter and more than once. Water is sometimes worse than...

I second that. Letting a diesel idle for hours is very hard on it plus it wastes a lot of fuel. Sometimes it is necessary but to do it just because it is 'cool', well plan on overhauling your engine early.

I tried as suggested the led route by changing the bulb with led replace bulbs. Well all I can say is the stock lights were 10 times better. Maybe there are better led's but I think just the nature of them makes them a poor replacement for that application.

Like someone else suggested I would change the fuel filter and the air filter. Although if the air filter is plugged that bad it would smoke like an old steam engine. I did have a tractor once that was acting similar, just kinda lazy. I changed all the fuel filters and did a visual on the air...

You will need to explain the chugging part?? If you mean what I think you mean it could be a fuel issue.:confused:

Hmmm again. I have lost count on the number of times the professional has messed up and cost me $$$$$$. Like the engine overhaul I had done that lasted 200hrs and cost me another 15K to repair And getting warranty, wow that's fun too. There are many ways to repair that cheap and simple. It is...

Ummm, if the best option is to replace the block then there is not much to lose by tapping the hole and inserting a screw or even have a plug of weld welded to it. There are lots of options that would work just fine and not cost the farm.

The glowplug idea sounds like the best bet. That should be real easy to check.:)

No problem turning it vertical. Get a new gasket and a piece of pipe from a muffler shop, clamp it and your in business. Never have liked those horizontal exhaust because of the reason you stated.:D

I also would like rear lights but I am not impressed with the one Kubota supplies. I would like one with an on/off switch as part of the light, does anyone know where I might find one?

I had a look again and the line looks like it could be a bit of a pain to get at. At least it is the line behind the spin on filter and not the one below it?

Thanks for the info. I know where it is now. Any suggestions on how often this should be cleaned after the initial break in?:)

Well i am asking if there is any screen anywhere that should be cleaned.:o

Maybe someone can solve the confusion with this. In the manual is mentions removing and clean the hydraulic suction screen but when I look for it it is not obvious. Also somewhere in here it says the new tractors do not have one. So which is it and where might it be if there is one??:confused:

There is a plate below the IP that id held on with 4 bolts likely. Disconnect what ever linkage there is attached to that plate and you should be able to pull it straight out. That will disengage the rack control and the IP should come out. Pay close attention to where everything goes behind...

Injection pumps are really not that complicated. Lots of small pieces and everything must be kept very clean. I would pull the 2 center ports again and check that the needle valve and spring are there. Failing that you might have to pull out the injection pump and check the bottom end. Just for...

If the head gasket is to the point of leaking into the engine then the gasket is gone, retorqueing the head might just warp it. Replace the gasket and then you get to see what shape your cylinders are in too.

You must be more specific about the black rain. Is that literal. If it does blow white and rain black then you are getting antifreeze in the combustion chambers. Likely a bad head gasket....fix asap.

Makes things simple. Just to confirm that udt is hydraulic oil? I am not up to speed on Kubota terminology yet.

What is the recommended/most used oil for the front diff on a B3200 and or a B1550?