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As I see it the gasket has no bearing on gear contact adjustment. The bottom bearings and spacer sleeve fit into a machined bore in the case. Actually (unless I missed it) I don't see any shims anywhere for contact pattern adjustment. The gasket in question is variable only to fill the gap...

Maybe I'm just stupid, but I have to wonder WHY you need to do that? Having split literally hundreds of cab tractors (both large and small) I can't recall ever removing a cab to do it. You have oil leaking from a clutch housing weep hole? What can that be other than a transmission input shaft...

You might try this. Fit wrenches on both tie rods and try to break one loose from the steering cylinder rod. Maybe the one you're after will come loose first. Problem solved. If not, unscrew the one that did come loose and back it out far enough to fit a regular wrench on the shaft flat spots...

You won't know if it's repairable until you see all the parts. If the bottom gear has moved downwards and no longer contacts the top gear, no teeth appear broken or missing, the box it probably toast. Stump jumpers are only worth so much. Slip clutches even less. If the clutch is adjusted so...

If you have the repair manual, read up on the procedure for clutch pedal free play adjustment. That would be good starting point. Access to the clutch/pressure plate without a tractor split? Afraid not. MAYBE it's out of free play and the clutch still has some life left. Depends how long...

I'm not sure why, (maybe it's just how you phrased it) but that sounds more like a clutch slipping issue than a low power problem.

It seems to me the tractor should have two sets of gears in the PTO housing. You remove a snap ring on the back, pull out one shaft and install another to change speeds. One shaft engages one set of gears, the other shaft engages the other set of gears...

My take is simply this. There are obviously hundreds of these tractors out there using this system. Since it's not electronic (like so many others) I suspect it's likely more dependable and fewer problems come up so actual experience is limited. Therefor fewer problems get reported and...

How did you clean the bearing(s)? If you washed them totally free of oil and dried them, they WILL make noise when spun. Add a few drops of clean oil to all the balls and try it again. Most importantly, can you move the inner race at all side to side or up and down in relation to the out race...

So if it's just not getting fuel out of the tank, why not go out with CLEAN jug of CLEAN fuel nd short length of fuel hose. Remove the fuel line from tank to first filter. Tie the jug somewhere above filter level, pull a siphon on the jug and fuel line, slip it onto the filter. That should get...

Maybe not, but if you plug a gauge into a coupler and deadhead it as you suggested earlier what does that tell you that this doesn't? What's upstream or downstream got to do with it?

I have a number of pressure gauges, different ranges for different systems. One that I use a lot is a 3000 PSI gauge on a tee. one end has a male pioneer end, one end has a female coupler. The male end can go into most any tractor remote coupler. The machine's hydraulic hose goes into the female...

I'm sure there will be a number of ideas put forth on this one. Personally, I have my doubts about the size of the cylinder from a lawn tractor operating your machine with a loader. That's just one point. Then getting into the hydraulic system is another concern. No matter where you tie in, you...

Dry clutch tractor? Suddenly won't move? You've checked for pedal free play, right? A slipping clutch is always the first thing that comes to mind with that symptom.

I'm sure I can find one locally, just not sure if I should be looking for British thread.

I'm in the process of installing a reman engine into a Bobcat skid loader. It's been apart for months. It just occurred to me that I don't know what happened to the oil pressure switch, and will probably need to get a replacement. Can anyone confirm what the size/thread pitch the V2203 uses for...

OK, thanks

I'm currently working on this M7060 cab tractor. I don't have a WSM for it and was wondering what the hydraulic system pressure relief should be set to. Tractor Data .com lists pump flow at 11 GPM but doesn't give the rated the pressure. I didn't have a gauge with me today but will have a flow...

By "side shift" I assume that's sliding the mower back and forth? That could be more of a coupler problem than anything to do with tractor oil level over full. More details on the PTO complaints would be helpful. What are upper settings?

If you can shift the lever and feel the detents, then a broken shift fork is a definite possibility. On the other hand, the roll pin mentioned is much more likely to break than is the shift fork.