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Yeah what Sidecar and SDT said. I stress that I'm not in a hurry and ask specifically how much freight will be. So far, no problem.

Confession, Dave. I didn't use either of those :o . I was careful ;).

Another thing while you're buying hardware. I think your wheels have straight holes, not tapered. If the nuts that came with your spacers are tapered, you'll need flat-faced nuts. I'd use heavy nuts or regular nuts with high-strength washers.

When you slid the spacer on, did it sit flat on the axle flange? If so, you're ok. I assume since the Amazon ad says the spacers have 1/2" studs and the tractor bolts and studs are metric, you can't interchange the nuts. First, realize that there are (at least) two nut sizes, standard and heavy...

Sounds like fuel in oil, but are you sure it's not hydraulic? How's your hydraulic level? I should start out by saying I know nothing specific about your tractor. You may have gotten a high enough oil level that it blew oil out of the crankcase vent into the intake. That provided the fuel to...

I'll second D2Cat. I managed to finagle the first rod seal in by hand, but I could see lots of ways you could cut a seal, so I bought that set of tools. I've used them a couple of times, slick. If your glands need a face spanner, I bought one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/151029962191...

Thanks for the correction. I've used an M7040 a couple of times and I don't think it has a manual knob, so I assumed . . . incorrectly.

Wolfman can correct me if I'm wrong on this. On the Kubotas with manual shutoff knobs, the fuel shutoff solenoid only actuates for about 10 seconds when you turn the keyswitch off. If the battery were dead, the solenoid burns out, an electrical gremlin creeps in, or a mechanical issue pops up...

I may be off base on this. I notice your fuel system diagram looks the same as my L35, but the bleed instructions are written differently. The L35 instructions are to open the bleeder valve and leave it open for 30 seconds after the engine starts. Yours just says 30 seconds. Did you by chance...

I'm thinking you may want want to beef up the footing that spans the old stump location. Maybe make it deeper and use 2 layers of reinforcing steel. Your best compaction still won't equal undisturbed soil. Could help you avoid future differential settlement issues. BTW, good job with that...

No. There is a mechanical fuel pump called a lift pump between the fuel tank and injection pump. It's driven by a cam lobe, similar to cars with carburetors (except much smaller, I didn't notice mine at first). It uses a flexible diaphragm and if that diaphragm leaks it pumps fuel into the...

To summarize first, I don't think you need to be concerned if the drift is within Kubota's allowance. Could be a valve leak, but if so it's on the rod side only. If it was on the cap side, fluid would leak in and prevent moving the bucket. Some of the sections on my backhoe have anti-cavitation...

If it's fuel, your tractor has a mechanical fuel lift pump and its diaphragm could be leaking.

Thanks for posting that. I had been thinking about how handy one of those might be if you could open the jaws without dismounting. I had not seen the bucket grabber. I ordered the larger bucket grabber to bolt on my bh bucket. I don't like the idea of clamping one on the loader bucket edge. I've...

New Guy on L35 I've been lurking for over a year and finally decided to register. Grew up in a small town. When I was a teenager, my dad decided I needed a taste of farm life so he and my uncle bought a few cows. My dad owned a hardware store and his brother lived out of state, so I provided...

Been lurking so I'm using this as my excuse to register. I went through the same exercise on my L35 last year. Bought the hose from my local NAPA dealer - about $72. The nut was one size bigger so I had to grind out the slot in the boom to get it through. If you can wait a couple of days, you...