Search results

Afraid I wasn't able to get nice clear photos. Hell, I didn't even pick up. This is my shop as it happens to be at this moment. I didn't even break down the rigged vacuum setup I made yesterday (not the first time) while turning some wood (I hate to do it, but...). Small gallery of pictures...

I completely agree in general. The house I'm in was build in '72 at the tale end of the period when aluminum was still allowed by code. Even though I wasn't supposed to, when I bought the house, I popped the lid on the breaker box and saw no evidence of aluminum other than the HVAC runs, which...

I don't have any good pictures, and getting them isn't going to be easy.

I've looked on and off over the years for a good set of shop manuals for my '02, mostly on ebay. For the older square bodies where I have a range of manuals including main chassis, electrical, and several supplementals. But I've had very little luck with finding newer manuals. If a source is...

I've always used the Stanadyne brews. Never had a fuel related problem, but that doesn't really mean much on it's own. I've got a friend that uses 2 cycle oil in a 6BT we swapped into his 72 Suburban, and he's got stupid miles on that thing with no fuel related issues either. Not that it...

Sorry, but you say "many of GMs diesel motors are based on gas platforms"? Not since the failed experiments of the 70s. Then in the 80s (83?) came the "Detroit" 6.2 followed by the closely related 6.5TD. This was an all new platform designed by Detroit Diesel with a primary goal of fuel...

AND, also realize it's NOT 4 wire. I need to learn to read for comprehension... But technically same thing really applies to 3 wire, though is certainly against code. If that wire is big enough to carry the combined current, then it DOES terminate at the same point, but it's really not a good...

I was about to say the same thing, easy to split out a 4 wire to get a pair of 110V, but won't be code, and for a good reason. The breaker is 220V, and likely won't trip at the desired current if you get an overload on only one side. But back to being 4 wire, you could do better by taking...

Good point! Sorry, the wife was yelling at me to get to the table for supper. :D

Congrats on a successful and clean result! For future reference, while a slotter (or shaper) would be easiest for a job like that, you can do it on a lathe. Easiest is to take an old school HSS boring bar, the kind with square holes at 90* on one end and 45* on the other end. Grind the bar...

Oh, and I had a clearance job something vaguely like that for a 3/16 EM. I built a long EM holder to support the EM down to the job. Looks to me like you have enough room for a pretty decent support holder and still clear the flange.

Good job for a slotter. An E head has up to 4" stroke, and you have essentially unlimited stroke if you do it with a boring bar on the lathe.

I always wanted to build a nice family (4 seat non competitive) rock crawler based on 406 axles. But I would love to have one of those! Can't justify in any world, but would still love to have one...

Great job, looks fantastic. I've only got one lathe, a 17x60. I do 4x4 off road truck (rock crawler) stuff, and wanted to be able to do everything I need with one lathe, so I made sure it supported a broad range. Over 2k rpm max, 7.5 HP, full range of metric and imperial threading at the flip...

Why not get regular or low hex-heads, and counter sink those? As long as there is some chamfer in the bore to prevent stress risers, I would think it should be ok to bore leaving only 1/4" or so. And there are many other fastener options. Button heads come to mind. Shallow bore and you again...

Re: Diesel Motorcycle Nice work, and cool project! Gotta love having machine tools. I haven't done anything tractor wise except for a primitive 2 stage clutch alignment shaft and some spacer bushings, but I've done lots for trucks, including doing all the machine work for putting a 6BT in a...

Make sure you are in the "advanced" editor, not the one at the bottom of each page (on that one, click "go advanced"). At the bottom you will find controls that allow you to upload some number of "attachments", which are loaded directly into this site and will be added to your post. The one...

When I saw the comment regarding "I did see the frame and it is made out of 1/4" steel and very compact", I was thinking "what could he be seeing, the loader frame or something?" So I went searching. And as usually, it's nearly impossible to find good photos from anything other than the Kubota...

Based on the profile thumb on your post, you've been around a while and posted a fair bit, but that post makes me unsure if you've ever worked on a B? It doesn't appear a typo, so perhaps just a moment of confusion? It is true that the BX (that I've seen) is a beefed up perimeter frame design...

I was surprised by it not having the stub for the pilot bearing. But it did not appear broken, so I didn't mention it. I don't recall ever seeing one without a pilot bearing before. I suppose that's due to the much heavier nature of the tractor in question, combined with it's relatively low...