G2160 Drain cock plug broke, need to take out for coolant change?

MapleLeafFarmer

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call me too pragmatic, too old, too simple, lazy or whatever but i would let sleeping dogs lay.

Since its not leaking or causing problems I would leave it alone. Sure being able to remove it would be fantastic and preferred but the potential of buggering it up and the can of worms that would cause I would leave it alone.

I would fill flush / repeat with a good cleaner (3x flush) multiple time and use lower rad hose as the drain point. Sure maybe not complete drain but do it a few times with a cleaner if you want will move you in the right direction by a good amount.

Then when comes time to fill you may not be able to get all the water out from last flush. If you manual tells you 4 quarts is cooling system capacity I would start by adding 2.5 quarts of pure antifreeze first not the 50/50 mix stuff as it will get diluted further by the residual water left in system. We here always shoot for a 70/30 mixture. I think those who use 50/50 for Canadian rad's maybe inviting problems into their lives that need not be let in.

Then top of with remaining water so maybe 1 quart of water as maybe other fluid is left behind. So you will easily see if full (then you have something like 2/3 - 1/3 mix which is no big deal. As since you are from Canada maybe 50/50 is not strong enough like many others mention. Then top up remaining water slowly to get to the desired concentration. Knowing your capacity first, then adding straight antifreeze to what your final desired mix should be then adding distilled water at end to make up to final capacity watching total liquid added amount to ensure not too watered down just in case the 4 qt research you will make was wrong you can add more antifreeze or water to finalize final mix at the very last level adjustment is what I would do.

hate to see you back here in a week or so looking for a different fix cause the repair went south.

cheers
 
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lmichael

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That petcock is not in the radiator it's on the side of the engine block. Radiator on this model has a little plugged off rubber hose and a clamp. No petcock, so nothing to "fix" there
 

Hugo Habicht

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If you buy the plug / drain valve from Kubota you can get the thread size from this. I would suspect it is metric, but no point speculating.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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None of the threads on water, hydraulics, or fuel are metric on a kubota, never have been.
They are either BSPT, BSPP, OR NPT
I'm pretty sure that that plug is NPT, most of kubota water fittings are.

You need to get the broken fitting out of the engine, it will fail when least expected and can cause serious damage!

Ok let me offer a simple work around, get some JB weld and cover the broken plug so it won't leak unexpectedly.
Just clean up the area really well and cover with JB weld.
 
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Rober88

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None of the threads on water, hydraulics, or fuel are metric on a kubota, never have been.
They are either BSPT, BSPP, OR NPT
I'm pretty sure that that plug is NPT, most of kubota water fittings are.

You need to get the broken fitting out of the engine, it will fail when least expected and can cause serious damage!

Ok let me offer a simple work around, get some JB weld and cover the broken plug so it won't leak unexpectedly.
Just clean up the area really well and cover with JB weld.
Makes sense.
Will massive problems eventual happen because I won't be able to flush things out completely?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Makes sense.
Will massive problems eventual happen because I won't be able to flush things out completely?
Nope, that drain plug does very little.
You could power flush that engine and I'll bet very little of anything would come out of the block.
 
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Russell King

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@Rober88

If this is really some other person’s tractor then I suggest you let them decide what the repair is. Since you are in Canada then you are probably in the slack period for the tractor use unless it is used for snow removal.

Since it is aluminum (per the photo you provided and @Hugo Habicht post) then I would not use an easy out. I would follow Hugo’s advice and drill it out and tap the hole. Then install the OEM valve. But I can understand your reluctance due to lack of experience.

But if you follow @North Idaho Wolfman ’s advice then you will need to clean up the end of the port and use a drill bit to try to clean up the hole so the epoxy will stick. I think you should do all that by hand starting with picks to see what comes out of the hole and working up to a drill bit.

The last thing I would do is just leave it alone, but that is really up to the owner!

Good luck and it sounds like it should be pretty easy to fix. You can get very detailed advice from @Hugo Habicht - he seems to be a meticulous repair/improvement person that would be very willing to lend advice.
 
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Workerbee

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I had similar happen maybe 10 years ago. On a d782 the petcock broke off when I went to change the coolant. It really wasnt a big issue to remove it. I drilled it as big as I dared, then used a punch and tapped from the sides. It broke out easily.
And it was a npt thread. 1/4” if I remember correctly.
I change the coolant every couple years and it hasnt been a problem since.
 
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Rober88

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I suppose I could try drilling it and tapping it out. If I mess it up, then just J-B Weld it?
Not sure which JB product to use.. J-B Weld Extreme Heat Metalic Repair Paste makes sense to me.

Relative that owns the mower is a retired widow who does not want to end up purchasing a new mower.

Here''s a couple more images
Screenshot_20260224-155557.png
Screenshot_20260224-161021.png
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Plenty of flesh there. You can always cut a slightly larger thread of your choice. Get a plug and a copper seal ring matching the thread you cut, although I love having a drain cock there with a hose connection, makes coolant changes a doodle and mess free.

Or, as I said before, get the Kubota part that fits, measure the thread. Drilling out the aluminium core in steel / iron is not difficult, the drill bit should center itself; keep the drill perpendicular to the flat surface. And then carefully recutting the thread should be possible too. The tap will follow the original thread.

p.s.: change coolant every 3 years or so. The corrosion is a sign for me that those changes have been neglected in the past. Coolants have corrosion inhibitors that are "used up" over time.
 
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GeoHorn

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that would be a lot of work but it is possible to drill it out . you have to drill it out exactly in center of bolt very carefully if there is room to get the drill in there etc. once you get most of it out sometimes a left handed drill bit will get the last bit out and it will just unscrew . make sure you dont break the drill bit off in there then you have to use a torch . if its not leaking maybe just leave it . rust is just a form of really slow welding right ?
Don’t overlook the possibility that a broken-drill-bit can be used with the “weld a nut onto it” to remove the entirety with a wrench.
 

GeoHorn

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None of the threads on water, hydraulics, or fuel are metric on a kubota, never have been.
They are either BSPT, BSPP, OR NPT
I'm pretty sure that that plug is NPT, most of kubota water fittings are.

You need to get the broken fitting out of the engine, it will fail when least expected and can cause serious damage!

Ok let me offer a simple work around, get some JB weld and cover the broken plug so it won't leak unexpectedly.
Just clean up the area really well and cover with JB weld.
I was thinking to take a common steel washer… weld it to the block…then fill the center with addt’l weldment.

If you paint it when finished……Should out-live the pyramids.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I was thinking to take a common steel washer… weld it to the block…then fill the center with addt’l weldment.

If you paint it when finished……Should out-live the pyramids.
Yep that's a perrfect way to crack the block and make it worthless!
 
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GeoHorn

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Yep that's a perrfect way to crack the block and make it worthless!
(If you hadn’t quoted me….. I could have gone back and deleted that stupid suggestion…although I think the chance of a block filled with coolant cracking from that small weldment is minimal.)

I was initially not confident that JB Weld or any other epoxy is capable of suffucient strength to be applied externally to a pressure-vessel. …. (although, as I think about that…. it certainly worked for decades on my old 9N which someone prior to me used to plug the craacked-block)…Hmmmnnn…. :unsure:

(should have known better than to try to “top” the Wolf)
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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(If you hadn’t quoted me….. I could have gone back and deleted that stupid suggestion…although I think the chance of a block filled with coolant cracking from that small weldment is minimal.)

I was initially not confident that JB Weld or any other epoxy is capable of suffucient strength to be applied externally to a pressure-vessel. …. (although, as I think about that…. it certainly worked for decades on my old 9N which someone prior to me used to plug the craacked-block)…Hmmmnnn…. :unsure:

(should have known better than to try to “top” the Wolf)
I can make it all as it never happened... 🤫 ;)
 
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TheOldHokie

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(If you hadn’t quoted me….. I could have gone back and deleted that stupid suggestion…although I think the chance of a block filled with coolant cracking from that small weldment is minimal.)

I was initially not confident that JB Weld or any other epoxy is capable of suffucient strength to be applied externally to a pressure-vessel. …. (although, as I think about that…. it certainly worked for decades on my old 9N which someone prior to me used to plug the craacked-block)…Hmmmnnn…. :unsure:

(should have known better than to try to “top” the Wolf)
Unless you chenged it your 9N had an unpressurized cooling system :unsure:

Dan
 

whitetiger

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The broken-off piece in the block is a very soft aluminum-type pot metal. If not removed, it will leak. The only thing containing the coolant is corrosion.

It is so simple to remove: drill it out to the pipe size, then run a tap into it to clean the threads.
I don'tot remember the size, either 1/4" or 3/8" pipe. I'm thinking it is 1/4".

Use the drill at a very slow speed and mark the bit so you don't get carried away and drill into the inside coolant wall. You only need to drill about a 1/4" deep.

I usually drill them out to fit my fluted easy-out and unscrew them with it, but this one looks really corroded, so it likely will need to be completely drilled out.
 
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