Easiest way for me to prime a grease gun is to only screw the grease tube holder in halfway. Pump/pull the trigger until you start pushing grease, then tighten the tube holder.Am guessing the air isn't all out yet. I run it for about 20 seconds 3 ties then stop. Don't want to burn the motor out. Should eventually push it out.
He put in a hard days work your asking to muchOne of the brush piles was getting a bit out of hand. Also, I need some chips to freshen up one of the walking trails between the houses and a seating area by the pond. Did a couple hours chipping this morning. Hope to get another hour or two tomorrow. That should produce enough chips plus some. Should also get the brush pile down to the mostly rotten stuff at the bottom. Not chipping that. View attachment 168035 View attachment 168036
Early in the morning, before chipping, pulled the cowling off the T2290 to prepare for routine annual maintenance. I’ll have to run by the dealer to pick up the stuff for it before the grass starts growing. View attachment 168037 Cat helped with the T2290. Couldn’t get him to help with chipping. View attachment 168038
Got it figured out yesterday. Got it purged. Squirts out grease continuous. This will come in handy now that I won't have to fire up the tractor to move it to get it lubed up.Am guessing the air isn't all out yet. I run it for about 20 seconds 3 ties then stop. Don't want to burn the motor out. Should eventually push it out.
If you have a chain break and punches, chains are usually salvageable. It's rare a link is so bent the straps need to be replaced, generally I can spin a chain around a vice-mounted bar (spin backwards so the chain comes off the smooth rounded bar nose) and find tight links that require filing the high spots and that's the worst of it (they ride out of the bar groove, usually). If a rivet is too tight (the chain stays linked) I wiggle it relatively loose by hand (pry it, really), sometimes I put it on the press and give it a little with a breaker, but really bending it loose is the way to go if possible. More often rivets are loose and need a bit in a spinner to tighten them up.Used the L3901DT to move logs to my splitting area, sorry no pictures. Was kind of warm today here, got up to 63F. Blocked up and split what I moved.
Before I did that, I had to put a new 24" bar on my Husqvarna 372XP. This is the third bar I have had one the chainsaw since I bought it in Aug of 2014. Turns out it wasn't only the bar that got bent, but the chain got messed up too. Didn't really see anything wrong with it, put it wouldn't rotate all the way around the new bar, it would get stuck. So not only am I out of $80 for a bar, I'm down one chain.

Thanks for the information. I have had chain that got tight after a pinch and was able to loosen the link up, but I don't have chain making equipment. You would think after cutting wood for 35 years and logging for 2 1/2 of those year I would have started making my own chains. I really don't go thru that many chains, so I never looked into buying anything.If you have a chain break and punches, chains are usually salvageable. It's rare a link is so bent the straps need to be replaced, generally I can spin a chain around a vice-mounted bar (spin backwards so the chain comes off the smooth rounded bar nose) and find tight links that require filing the high spots and that's the worst of it (they ride out of the bar groove, usually). If a rivet is too tight (the chain stays linked) I wiggle it relatively loose by hand (pry it, really), sometimes I put it on the press and give it a little with a breaker, but really bending it loose is the way to go if possible. More often rivets are loose and need a bit in a spinner to tighten them up.
In my experience, pretty much any chain is salvageable if the cutters have stock on them.
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I was admiring the double-bit axe on the table. I got one when I was 14 years old. I broke the handle in my stepdad's axe (splitting red oak), so he made me go learn how to make axe handles, make two, and replace his handle and fit an old 4 pounder that was broken by a previous misuser. The 4-pounder became MY axe, and his was off-limits for the duration of my life on that farm. After I bought my first home, I retrieved my axe from the farm after several years of neglect and misuse. Took a while to get it back in shape after my mother had used it for years in the flower beds and cutting sod with it. I finally replaced the handle in the axe last year, simply because it was 53 years old and I couldn't keep it tight in the head any longer. A loose head from a double bit axe is a dangerous thing to behold, obviously. It never came off, but it did slip about a half inch. So I bought a new handle from TSC and put my axe head on it last year. Good as 'new' again. I still have the handle I replaced and am considering using it for a 4 pound hammer someone gave me. That hickory is probably as hard as the hammer by now. There's just something sentimental about my first ever DIY axe handle.
I adjust the feet, which allows shearing ice without damaging the drive. Feet on a plow are awesome.I bought a UMHW blank from GWT for my RB1684 to replace the steel cutting edge for use on my asphalt driveway. I have to say it worked great on the slushy snow we got overnight. My driveway is fairly new and I did not want to take a chance digging into it or catching an edge.