ajschnitzelbank
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L4701, BH92, Frost Bite grapple, Logosol M8 mill, Stihl MS661
Ah hah, hopefully this makes my question more clear. How to you prevent kickback on this cut, as it seems you’re using the top tip of the bar.You are right - the hinge generally breaks when the notch closes so wider angled notches like you prefer to make will hold longer. One consideration to think about - if you are cutting in the thick and your tree may come in contact with other standing trees you may want your tree to be able to roll or slide. In that case, having the hinge break once it is headed in the right direction is a helpful thing because it can roll or slide back. But the butt is loose so you have to be out of the way.
On making the bore cut and kick back - start the bore cut so that the bottom corner of the bar makes contact with the wood first. So you are going in at an angle rather than straight back. After you have started to cut in slowly rotate your saw around as you cut deeper until your are cutting straight back the way you want. Starting with the tip or top corner of the saw will kick back. You should practice this. A bore cut is very useful. It is one of the best ways to cut a leaner and is the recommended method used by the famous "Game of Logging" schools as the basic cut to use in general.
gg