Hey all, I have an m4700 that has a leak from the collar (I believe) of the power steering hydraulic line. See attached pics. My problem is this line disappears behind my dash. I have removed a lot of the dash/shroud and I’m not anywhere close to the other end of the line. I can reach in there and feel where it seats with my hand but no where close to getting to it. No idea what it would take to even find the other end?m. Any input on removal/where to start?
M4700 power steering hydraulic line.
- Thread starter Doindia
- Start date
Hey Dan, perhaps I wasn’t clear in the first post. There aren’t any oring issues. This is a metal line with a pinhole rust leak around the collar.
Also the disconnect at each end part is what I’m asking about. I’d like to take the line out but cannot get to the other end of the line routed up behind the dash
The line is connected to the inlet port on the steering controller. Take stuff off until you can access it. The WSM should have pictures and a more specific list of the "stuff" . The line is roughly 12" long but its probably more than a little work.
Dan
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Thank you Dan! I just googled and realized WSM meant workshop repair manual so I’m going to purchase an E copy and start digging to see if it has any input. The part where it connects to the steering controller is the issue for sure. Almost looks like the gas tank will have to come out. There’s just zero room back there. Thank you for your help.
North Idaho Wolfman
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That's a relatively short line.
Replace it, don't repair it.
Replace it, don't repair it.
This reply comes late as I just found this post. I have replaced "twice" this hydraulic line for my M4700. First, you can reach the nut attached to the steering wheel attach point without taking anything apart. From the left side of the tractor (looking forward), it does take a tad of patience as you have limited access with the open wrench (don't remember the size wrench, thinking it might be 3/4 or 19 MM) to break the connection, but at some point you can then spin the nut with your fingers. Both of mine failed where yours failed and the reason, the pipe goes into the foot but it is brazed to the foot only at the surface, none of the brazing penetrates where the pipe inserts into the foot. Over time vibration causes a crack where the brazing is. There is clamp for the pipe but it is too far forward to mitigate the vibrations causing the failure. My second pipe I created a standoff attached to the frame that connects at the 90 degree bend where the pipe goes down to the pump, this does a much better job of dampening against the vibration. I sent photos to Kubota USA but they refused to admit to this inferior design, however, my local Kubota dealer (their maint guys and parts guys) after seeing the actual failed part and how the brazing was only at the surface of the foot, agreed, it was poor production. This probably came too late for you but might help others going forward.
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whitetiger
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Yet how many thousands of these units have never had that line fail?
North Idaho Wolfman
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What is it with people bring it up "issues" with OLD models.
This is a 30 year old tractor, I'm sure that it wasn't as big of an issue as your making out as.
Your picture does not allow the brazing to be examined. All I see is a broken pipe with some brazing material on it.
You have to cut the flange part in two in order to determine if the brazing flowed into the gap (which I am pretty sure it did).
Wrt to inferior design: the pipe may have failed due to engine revs that create a resonance. Running the engine 100 rpm higher or lower would have prevented the break.
You have to cut the flange part in two in order to determine if the brazing flowed into the gap (which I am pretty sure it did).
Wrt to inferior design: the pipe may have failed due to engine revs that create a resonance. Running the engine 100 rpm higher or lower would have prevented the break.
This M4700 owner had the "exact" issue I had twice and at the "exact" location, coincidence? Let others decide that! The local Kubota dealer verified the brazing did not penetrate into the foot pad that sits on the hyd purmp. I took the complete part to them to examine, and it was they who suggested the procedure I used to help mitigate the vibration (also from the mechanic who has 20 years working on Kubotas). I also took the part to a local repair shop to see if it could be repaired, they too verified the brazing was only surface. No axe to grind here, this may be just a silly thought, but isn't this forum about helping other Kubota owners find solutions to problems others have experienced and possible solutions to help out? My only "agenda" is to offer a "possible" solution to others who experience this issue, obviously NOT to the "thousands" who have not experienced this issue.