Need help removing this part from bushhog

[marrmanu]

I just pulled the stump jumper on my RCR1248 due to leaking out put shaft seal.
The shaft is tapered as mentioned.
I heated it up real good with a rosebud, I mean real good, and then placed a steel pipe end cap over the shaft as not to mess up the threads and wacked it real good, the stump jumper popped right off!

 

[chim]

The only knowledge I have is what the parts diagrams show. IF I"M SEEING IT CORRECTLY, it appears the pinion shaft has to be removed from the gear box after the gear box is removed from the deck. The stuck part would prevent removing the gear box because the damaged part is larger than the hole in the output cap.

 

[marrmanu]

In case you don't already know, the nut securing the stump jumper and the blades get torqued to 425 LBs, at least that is for my land pride rcr 1248.

 

[Shawn T. W]

O'Reilly's Auto parts stores, and maybe others "rent" pullers and other stuff ... It's more like you pay full price for it, then when you return it, you get 100% back, if you don't return it, you already paid for it!

 

[Flintknapper]

After reading all the other suggestions and mine I would take this approach. Don't even mess with a puller or heat if you don't have those available. Heat MAY damage the shaft and seal. Pull the gearbox to get better access. If you have a puller you could try that first. Screw the nut part way on and split what is left of the hub with a cutoff disc. Be careful not to get into the splined shaft. Once you cut a slot almost to the shaft you can probably break it open with a thick chisel. At that point it should pull off by hand.

^^^^^

This would be my approach as well. The Splined shaft (tapered or not) is essentially 'welded' to the boss of the stump jumper via Galvanic Corrosion (rust) AND the part was heavily torqued to the shaft to begin with.

Use a cut off disc to produce two 'kerfs' in the boss (180° apart). Get as close to the shaft as possible without cutting into it or the threads. Then use a cold chisel to split the ring the rest of the way.

It's going to be a 'fight' regardless the method selected.

 

[tootall81]

After reading all the other suggestions and mine I would take this approach. Don't even mess with a puller or heat if you don't have those available. Heat MAY damage the shaft and seal. Pull the gearbox to get better access. If you have a puller you could try that first. Screw the nut part way on and split what is left of the hub with a cutoff disc. Be careful not to get into the splined shaft. Once you cut a slot almost to the shaft you can probably break it open with a thick chisel. At that point it should pull off by hand.

Going with this. Soon as I put the parts puller on it, it broke the tool. Just gonna cut it off. Hopefully its not as bad getting a new hub back on it.

 

[Russell King]

Get a good wire brush and clean up the shaft, coat the shaft with an anti seize (if you want and there are no warnings in the implement manual not to). Install the new hub, tighten the nut, torque the nut properly, put the locking device in and call it good.

But I have always debated whether cutting the hub off at the top of a shaft spline or into a shaft valley is better. So I will ask for opinions and why one is better than the other.

I would probably start the attack with a Dremel tool to get a good groove in the hub, then switch to a four inch grinder to remove most of the material. When getting close I would probably switch back to the Dremel. Then get the whole groove close to the shaft (on both sides). I have no idea if a splined shaft hub will split with a chisel since the splines limit its movement but I think that would be my next step to try.

What do the experienced people do?

 

[chim]

I'd cut into the top of a spline. You could destroy one spline and it wouldn't have a huge effect. If you overcut in a valley you're going into the meat of the shaft.

 

[chim]

If you want to use a Dremel, I'd start with a real grinder and take material away so the broken part looks like an upper case D with the flattened part stopping just shy of the shaft. A Dremel on a piece that size is like shoveling a sand pile with a teaspoon.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Going with this. Soon as I put the parts puller on it, it broke the tool. Just gonna cut it off. Hopefully its not as bad getting a new hub back on it.

I had a similar problems a few days ago. Tapered splined rusted shaft. I cleaned everything off, used acetone/ATF mix for a few days, then heat, cold, puller and hammering it from both sides with two hammers.

In your case the part is destroyed already, so cutting it off is a good option. What often worked for me is applying force with a puller and then applying heat by welding a line lengthwise on the outer part. As mentioned already be careful not to apply too much heat if an oil seal is sitting behind it.

Using levers against the housing may not be a good idea depending on the type of bearing used for the shaft. Best is using a puller against the shaft.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Going with this. Soon as I put the parts puller on it, it broke the tool. Just gonna cut it off. Hopefully its not as bad getting a new hub back on it.

In case you don't already know, the nut securing the stump jumper and the blades get torqued to 425 LBs, at least that is for my land pride rcr 1248.

I am fairly certain @marrmanu is correct here.

I just did the rear end on my truck and my 1/2 inch tooling was not cutting it, so I bought a "Torque multiplier" and it worked great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DGYSFR3R?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It made a yuge difference.

I went from "Broken down Old Man" to "Superman" in just a few seconds......hahahah......."Give me a lever, and I can move the world".......

Just a thought if your having trouble attaining that torque.

 

[Russell King]

But remember, if using a torque multiplier, to reduce the input setting in accordance with the ratio of the torque multiplier!

Captain Obvious would hate to see you damage the gearbox shaft!

 

[Hugo Habicht]

But remember, if using a torque multiplier, to reduce the input setting in accordance with the ratio of the torque multiplier!

This is a good suggestion. But what is it? It says gear ratio 1:9 on the box but torque ratio 1:6.5. Should that not be the same?

 

[#40Fan]

6.5 is the number you want to use. The gear ratio would be how many turns of input to number of turns on the output.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

6.5 is the number you want to use. The gear ratio would be how many turns of input to number of turns on the output.

Yes, I know. But should they not be the same? n1 x T1 = n2 x T2 for lossless gears. So n1 / n2 = T2 / T1. Torque and gear ratio the same.

 

[#40Fan]

I've seen the same type of wording on Snap-on multipliers. I'm thinking it has to be the loss of torque through the gearing that derates it.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

I've seen the same type of wording on Snap-on multipliers. I'm thinking it has to be the loss of torque through the gearing that derates it.

420Nm loss at 1500Nm output torque? Hmmm, I don't know. And it is static torque, not rotating. Further down in the text it says x9 torque multiplier. The max. input and output torque ratios correspond to 6.5 ratio though, so that's most likely what it is.

You can always take a torque wrench for adults

Sorry, did not want to derail this thread.