L275DT - Turn key, nothing

[timsch]

After indications that not all is well with the ignition system, for lack of better words, the tractor finally did nothing today when I turned the key.

Previously, there'd be a dead second or so when turning the key and then it'd turn over as expected. It's got a relatively new battery (load tests good) and a new ground cable. After that didn't take care of it, I pulled the starter and cleaned the terminals and wire connections, checked the brushes (good), and cleaned the commutator. Fired up great immediately after that, which was just a few weeks ago.

After sitting a few days, it was back to its old stuff. And now...nothing at all. I do need to move it to be able to work on it. The bucket is down, so no easy pulling it. I'd imagine it would start if I jumped the starter, but haven't tried that yet.

Recommendations on getting this resolved?

 

[Russell King]

You said nothing about the positive cable. Is it clean/good/well attached at both ends?

Do you have the starter switch on your tractor after the key switch?

I have a L185 smaller but similar and it will not always crank on the first time I use the starter switch. I have replaced the starter/switches/wiring and that resolved it for some time but it came back. I have a new starter (not rebuilt like last time) but just haven’t had time to put it in yet.

I think you can get a newer style gear reduction type starter that will fit and that would probably resolve the issue.

 

[timsch]

No, I didn't replace the positive cable, but IIRC it looked fine. I'll double check in the morning. No starter switch, just the key.

 

[#40Fan]

Check battery voltage first.

 

[timsch]

I did. Load tested it too.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, you should replace the +ve battery cable. Think of it this way... EVERY electron has to flow from the battery to the starter and return to the battery. This 'circle of power' has to be perfect. +ve cables corrode from the inside out, you can't see that happening ,though a good clue is ANY discoloration at either end.

As for moving the tractor.. Have a helper (or bungee) hold the loader lever 'up' and use a comealong to raise the bucket say a foot off the ground. Use a 2nd comealong or rope or blocks on the lift cylinders as a safety. Now you CAN tow the tractor to the drive shed.

 

[Tractor Gal]

Back to the battery...I had a battery load tested at a place that sells batteries. They said it was good. After trying many other things, I took the same battery back and had a different person load test it. It was dead.

So, be sure that you know the battery is good. And, maybe you already are sure. Just sayin'.

Tractor Gal

 

[#40Fan]

I did. Load tested it too.

You've done this since this last time it won't start?

What it sounds like to me is the battery isn't being charged. After you installed the new battery, it has had enough reserve power to work a few times. After sitting a while, the normal parasitic draws have drained the battery enough to keep it from working.

Grab a volt meter and check what the battery voltage is now. It should be very close to 12.6 volts.

 

[timsch]

Yes, I did it after the no-start yesterday and it passed with flying colors. The battery is being charged. I measured it the last time it was run. Charging system was putting out 13.6V IIRC. Battery voltage was 12.58.

 

[Russell King]

Try to bypass the wiring and key switch by jumping from a positive voltage point to the spade on the solenoid.

Be careful since the tractor engine could start. It could then kill you if it ran you over.

The starter should crank the engine if there is no problem with the starter or battery. The positive point can be where the battery cable attaches to the starter and would also verify the cable is good.

If it doesn’t crank, it is the solenoid, starter or positive cable. Move to the battery positive post and test again.

If it does crank, then there is a wiring problem or key switch or safety switch problem.

 

[rbargeron]

This may not be relevant - but I've noticed my rigs that there's a NEGATIVE wire that grounds the key-start area of the dash - and is known to corrode and stop doing the job.

A quick test is to hook up a jumper cable from the negative battery post to the dash near the key switch. Maybe just inadequate grounding?

 

[timsch]

This may not be relevant - but I've noticed my rigs that there's a NEGATIVE wire that grounds the key-start area of the dash - and is known to corrode and stop doing the job.

A quick test is to hook up a jumper cable from the negative battery post to the dash near the key switch. Maybe just inadequate grounding?

It may be very relevant. I very recently had the dash apart, so may have compromised something that allowed it to start right after that, but failed shortly thereafter. I'll be pulling it apart to check.

I was able to start it up by jumping across the solenoid.

As always, thanks everyone for the help.

 

[Russell King]

I don’t recall any type of ground wire on my L185 dash. I think it was all grounded through the sheet metal and bolts, so @rbargeron may be onto something!

You should be able to add a ground wire from the battery negative frame point to the dash area. You might need to make a couple wires in series but I don’t know where you can attach at the dash.

 

[timsch]

Digging into this now. Any tips on how to remove the ignition switch? It's pretty tight working back there with it in. I've pried the cap with a flat-blade screwdriver as well as tried to rotate it - neither did anything. No telling how long since it's been off.

Behind it I didn't see any ground wire attached to the sheet metel.

 

[Russell King]

The key switch unscrews. The nut is the big round thing with a “groove” in it around where you put the key. It is normal thread so unscrews CCW.

I imagine it is corroded onto the key switch but I don’t think that you will be able to get any penetrating oil to the threads.

I don’t understand your picture but on my L185 to get to anything under the dash it is much easier to remove the steering wheel and then get the flat dash and cowl unbolted from the tractor and lifted over the steering column. Of course I have taken the steering wheel off recently so it is not stuck!

 

[timsch]

I've already removed the steering wheel and all bolts/screws holding the dash and cowl. The picture is from the top. There's not enough play in the wires/cables to allow me to move them that much though. Removing the screws holding in the glow plug indicator helped some to get access to the backside of the ignition switch, but I still want more.

I can tap on the screw-on cap with a hammer & punch, but holding it from the rear while I do that will be a trick.

Edit: I was able to wrangle the cowl around the steering column, so I have a bit more room to work with.

 

[Russell King]

There should be some harness connections for the wire down by your feet (if sitting on the tractor) on the left side. You may have to pull the wires from the rear of the tractor since they don’t put a connector on them.

Maybe use some locking pliers on the switch body to help hold it??

If worse comes to worse, you could cut the ring off with a Dremel tool and replace it or the whole switch. Look at the pricing for the individual parts or the whole assembly including keys, they have an interesting pricing system the last time I looked. Just be careful how you buy it!