L275DT - Turn key, nothing

[timsch]

After indications that not all is well with the ignition system, for lack of better words, the tractor finally did nothing today when I turned the key.

Previously, there'd be a dead second or so when turning the key and then it'd turn over as expected. It's got a relatively new battery (load tests good) and a new ground cable. After that didn't take care of it, I pulled the starter and cleaned the terminals and wire connections, checked the brushes (good), and cleaned the commutator. Fired up great immediately after that, which was just a few weeks ago.

After sitting a few days, it was back to its old stuff. And now...nothing at all. I do need to move it to be able to work on it. The bucket is down, so no easy pulling it. I'd imagine it would start if I jumped the starter, but haven't tried that yet.

Recommendations on getting this resolved?

 

[Russell King]

You said nothing about the positive cable. Is it clean/good/well attached at both ends?

Do you have the starter switch on your tractor after the key switch?

I have a L185 smaller but similar and it will not always crank on the first time I use the starter switch. I have replaced the starter/switches/wiring and that resolved it for some time but it came back. I have a new starter (not rebuilt like last time) but just haven’t had time to put it in yet.

I think you can get a newer style gear reduction type starter that will fit and that would probably resolve the issue.

 

[timsch]

No, I didn't replace the positive cable, but IIRC it looked fine. I'll double check in the morning. No starter switch, just the key.

 

[#40Fan]

Check battery voltage first.

 

[timsch]

I did. Load tested it too.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, you should replace the +ve battery cable. Think of it this way... EVERY electron has to flow from the battery to the starter and return to the battery. This 'circle of power' has to be perfect. +ve cables corrode from the inside out, you can't see that happening ,though a good clue is ANY discoloration at either end.

As for moving the tractor.. Have a helper (or bungee) hold the loader lever 'up' and use a comealong to raise the bucket say a foot off the ground. Use a 2nd comealong or rope or blocks on the lift cylinders as a safety. Now you CAN tow the tractor to the drive shed.

 

[Tractor Gal]

Back to the battery...I had a battery load tested at a place that sells batteries. They said it was good. After trying many other things, I took the same battery back and had a different person load test it. It was dead.

So, be sure that you know the battery is good. And, maybe you already are sure. Just sayin'.

Tractor Gal

 

[#40Fan]

I did. Load tested it too.

You've done this since this last time it won't start?

What it sounds like to me is the battery isn't being charged. After you installed the new battery, it has had enough reserve power to work a few times. After sitting a while, the normal parasitic draws have drained the battery enough to keep it from working.

Grab a volt meter and check what the battery voltage is now. It should be very close to 12.6 volts.

 

[timsch]

Yes, I did it after the no-start yesterday and it passed with flying colors. The battery is being charged. I measured it the last time it was run. Charging system was putting out 13.6V IIRC. Battery voltage was 12.58.

 

[Russell King]

Try to bypass the wiring and key switch by jumping from a positive voltage point to the spade on the solenoid.

Be careful since the tractor engine could start. It could then kill you if it ran you over.

The starter should crank the engine if there is no problem with the starter or battery. The positive point can be where the battery cable attaches to the starter and would also verify the cable is good.

If it doesn’t crank, it is the solenoid, starter or positive cable. Move to the battery positive post and test again.

If it does crank, then there is a wiring problem or key switch or safety switch problem.

 

[rbargeron]

This may not be relevant - but I've noticed my rigs that there's a NEGATIVE wire that grounds the key-start area of the dash - and is known to corrode and stop doing the job.

A quick test is to hook up a jumper cable from the negative battery post to the dash near the key switch. Maybe just inadequate grounding?

 

[timsch]

This may not be relevant - but I've noticed my rigs that there's a NEGATIVE wire that grounds the key-start area of the dash - and is known to corrode and stop doing the job.

A quick test is to hook up a jumper cable from the negative battery post to the dash near the key switch. Maybe just inadequate grounding?

It may be very relevant. I very recently had the dash apart, so may have compromised something that allowed it to start right after that, but failed shortly thereafter. I'll be pulling it apart to check.

I was able to start it up by jumping across the solenoid.

As always, thanks everyone for the help.