L3130 Starts right up runs min. Some times two will shut off let sit 30 sec. or so will start right up (no black smoke) Have not had Problem while operating. Have let it run at idle & 1/2 throttle not moving & will shut off. Dose not happen all the time.
Tractor shutting off
- Thread starter ferguson
- Start date
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Does it slowly die (like running out of fuel) or quickly die (same as when the key is turned to off)?
I would investigate the solenoid that is on the injection pump that is used to shut off the fuel (or hold the fuel on when running) and see if it is operating correctly. I think you could remove it from the tractor and test it or see if the tractor runs properly without it. But you must know how to get it to stop running manually if you remove that solenoid and start the engine.
I would investigate the solenoid that is on the injection pump that is used to shut off the fuel (or hold the fuel on when running) and see if it is operating correctly. I think you could remove it from the tractor and test it or see if the tractor runs properly without it. But you must know how to get it to stop running manually if you remove that solenoid and start the engine.
shuts right off. If you just unplug the fuel shutoff will it start or do you start it then unplug?
Russell King
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Well Kubota has two schemes for that solenoid so the answer is “it depends on what kind you have”.
One style of solenoid is not active during start and running, but only pulls the fuel flow to zero when the key is turned off, it holds fuel off for a few seconds and then releases to be able to run if working properly.
The other style has two coils and is active during startup and during running so the tractor will die when there is no power applied to the solenoid.
I believe you can remove the solenoid in either case and manually move the levers that the solenoid controls to make the tractor start, run and shut off.
I think if there are three wires to the solenoid it is the second type. If one or two wires then it is the first style. Some use the case as a ground path.
But search for some threads about how to troubleshoot the system and you will find some intelligent people that tell you how to do it.
See this for example
www.orangetractortalks.com
One style of solenoid is not active during start and running, but only pulls the fuel flow to zero when the key is turned off, it holds fuel off for a few seconds and then releases to be able to run if working properly.
The other style has two coils and is active during startup and during running so the tractor will die when there is no power applied to the solenoid.
I believe you can remove the solenoid in either case and manually move the levers that the solenoid controls to make the tractor start, run and shut off.
I think if there are three wires to the solenoid it is the second type. If one or two wires then it is the first style. Some use the case as a ground path.
But search for some threads about how to troubleshoot the system and you will find some intelligent people that tell you how to do it.
See this for example
L3130 Stalls in cold weather
I bought a L3130/hst in 2005 new, which now has only 230 hrs on it. It has a engine block heater. I have no problem starting it, but as soon as i start moving (even after letting it run for a half hour) it sounds like a switch click and it shuts down. I makes the same switch sound as if i would...
www.orangetractortalks.com
Changed the solenoid the orinal one was clicking on & off ( you could hear it ) The new one is doing the same thing " but not all the time used the tractor for a hr plus yesterday no Problum .Today used it 10 min. earlyer today no Problum went to use it agen "Problum" solenoid clicking on & off . ThoughtsWell Kubota has two schemes for that solenoid so the answer is “it depends on what kind you have”.
One style of solenoid is not active during start and running, but only pulls the fuel flow to zero when the key is turned off, it holds fuel off for a few seconds and then releases to be able to run if working properly.
The other style has two coils and is active during startup and during running so the tractor will die when there is no power applied to the solenoid.
I believe you can remove the solenoid in either case and manually move the levers that the solenoid controls to make the tractor start, run and shut off.
I think if there are three wires to the solenoid it is the second type. If one or two wires then it is the first style. Some use the case as a ground path.
But search for some threads about how to troubleshoot the system and you will find some intelligent people that tell you how to do it.
See this for example
L3130 Stalls in cold weather
I bought a L3130/hst in 2005 new, which now has only 230 hrs on it. It has a engine block heater. I have no problem starting it, but as soon as i start moving (even after letting it run for a half hour) it sounds like a switch click and it shuts down. I makes the same switch sound as if i would...
Ok hot wired the solenoid works fine . Ignition switch . (Maybe) Wiring diagram power comes from ignition switch will get a new one & replace.
Hot wided the fuel solnoid started right up turned tractor off now will not even crankover HELPWell Kubota has two schemes for that solenoid so the answer is “it depends on what kind you have”.
One style of solenoid is not active during start and running, but only pulls the fuel flow to zero when the key is turned off, it holds fuel off for a few seconds and then releases to be able to run if working properly.
The other style has two coils and is active during startup and during running so the tractor will die when there is no power applied to the solenoid.
I believe you can remove the solenoid in either case and manually move the levers that the solenoid controls to make the tractor start, run and shut off.
I think if there are three wires to the solenoid it is the second type. If one or two wires then it is the first style. Some use the case as a ground path.
But search for some threads about how to troubleshoot the system and you will find some intelligent people that tell you how to do it.
See this for example
L3130 Stalls in cold weather
I bought a L3130/hst in 2005 new, which now has only 230 hrs on it. It has a engine block heater. I have no problem starting it, but as soon as i start moving (even after letting it run for a half hour) it sounds like a switch click and it shuts down. I makes the same switch sound as if i would...
armylifer
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Did you check the battery? It sounds like you may have a bad battery or the charging system is not working, or both.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
That sounds like the key switch is bad or dirty. You can try to take it out, make sure the connections to the switch are clean on both sides. Then clean the internal switch with contact cleaner if there is a drain port in the switch. (I have never done that personally so no clue how to do it.)
There may be a blown fuse from your hotwiring? (I would use an inline fuse holder for the hot wire)
You may be draining the battery down from the hotwire?
Is there a control system for the fuel solenoid through the tractor? Is it normally powered by the tractor ECU?
Does the tractor dash lights come on when the key is in the run position? What happens when you turn the key to run and start position? Any lights or noise?
There may be a blown fuse from your hotwiring? (I would use an inline fuse holder for the hot wire)
You may be draining the battery down from the hotwire?
Is there a control system for the fuel solenoid through the tractor? Is it normally powered by the tractor ECU?
Does the tractor dash lights come on when the key is in the run position? What happens when you turn the key to run and start position? Any lights or noise?
wired the solenoid back to OEM have dash lights power to solenoid (it cilkes when ig is turned on / have power on all 3 poles out of ig switch when switch is in start position / there is only wire to starter it hase no power when ig is turned to start position / how do you jump these starters just to check starter Thanks
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I assume you meant the following:
Stop solenoid is back to original wiring now.
The dash lights come on when key is in run position.
Stop solenoid is getting power in at least one key position but I assume that it is working correctly now.
Ignition switch has power out on three terminals. I assume that means it is working properly in both the RUN and START position.
When the key is in the START position, there is no power on the (black with white stripe) wire that connects to the spade terminal on the starter solenoid.
That all points to the safety circuit of the starter. There may be several safety switches involved (seat, PTO, HST forward/reverse pedal,?) that must be satisfied to allow the power to get to the starter solenoid.
To troubleshoot that system you can hold the key in the start position and then rock around in the seat, move the PTO lever, and rock the pedal forward and backwards (reverse). Do these one at a time and see if the starter engages. If it does then focus on that safety switch. You may have just not gotten the switch in the correct activation position.
You can also use an electrical meter to check each switch’s operation if you want to and can figure out what the proper operation is on the switch.
But with the key in the OFF position you can connect the positive battery post on starter to the spade terminal on the starter solenoid and the starter should crank the engine. If not, then take the battery out and the starter off and have them both tested at an appropriate automotive shop or parts store.
But be careful doing this since a diesel engine can run with no power to anything since it needs no ignition system. If the key is on and the tractor is in gear it could run you over and hurat you severely.
Thanks for the input & yes to all the above. Before this no cranking issue the fuel solenoid would shut the engine off with now one on it just sitting there idling. ( it is a new solenoid ) changed it when this first started FYI
Going of of memory here....
look at positive battery cable
follow it from the positive terminal, it splits off. One cable goes to the starter, other goes to the rest of the electrical system. There is usually a black plastic joint where they split off. Inside of that is a connector that sometimes rusts off, corrodes, etc. Pretty common. Turn the key on and headlights on, with the hood up and wiggle the cables and that connection. If stuff starts working and then shuts off while you're a wiggling the wiring, you have isolated the problem.
look at positive battery cable
follow it from the positive terminal, it splits off. One cable goes to the starter, other goes to the rest of the electrical system. There is usually a black plastic joint where they split off. Inside of that is a connector that sometimes rusts off, corrodes, etc. Pretty common. Turn the key on and headlights on, with the hood up and wiggle the cables and that connection. If stuff starts working and then shuts off while you're a wiggling the wiring, you have isolated the problem.
Put every thing back to OEM engine still no crank / jumped the starter tractor runs & operates as normal /turns on &off with switch. just will not crank with key switch. / starter relay ??
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Did you try the safety switches to see if it would try to crank?
I think it is the relay or a safety switch or something in the wiring between the key switch and the starter solenoid.
You can check if you are getting voltage to the end of the wire that connects to the solenoid. If you are you may just need to add another relay there that will trigger from the existing wire and provide power from the battery positive to the solenoid.
Good luck
I think it is the relay or a safety switch or something in the wiring between the key switch and the starter solenoid.
You can check if you are getting voltage to the end of the wire that connects to the solenoid. If you are you may just need to add another relay there that will trigger from the existing wire and provide power from the battery positive to the solenoid.
Good luck