Recent content by whitetiger

Exactly, it pays off quite often, takes 20 seconds, and you do not have to pick up a wrench before you have a sign of what is causing the erratic operation.

Immensely.....

The tractor serial number has nothing to do with the loader. There should be a cylinder part number stamped on the cylinder barrel.

When the lever is to the left of the steering wheel, it is a hydraulic shuttle. When the lever is on the left fender, it is a mechanical shuttle. What happens if you turn the steering wheel or raise the loader when the tractor stops moving?

It's an essential!!!!!

He was looking for the WSM 5 years ago; he probably has found one by now.

There is a tachometer drive cable (#30) going from the front of the engine to the instrument cluster that has probably failed. Unscrew the cable from the tach drive on the front of the engine and spin the inner cable while watching the tach needle. It should jump up some. If it doesn't...

They are interchangeable.

A hydrostat is a closed loop; it will not speed up heating the oil. If an unoccupied remote is available, 1 short hose with coupler tips can be plugged into the couplers, and the lever tied back to circulate oil and warm it. This has been done in the ag industry for over 50 years, that I know of.

No, your tractor has no screen or strainer, just the spin-on filter. Is the Forward & Reverse shuttle on the LH fender or on the dash, left of the steering wheel?

Must be an option available in Slovenia but not in the USA.

If you do not have a loader but have the front hydraulic couplers, is the hose looped back down and plugged into one of the couplers?

Does your steering and loader operate OK?

Before you just bolt it to a ground, what color is the wire that the ring is crimped onto? It may very well be for an option that is not installed.

Check the Mode I and see that it is set to "G", not "M". T8 is probably a factory only Mode.