Recent content by Russell King

The deck on my Cub Cadet (MTD) has some wash out system on the deck. It looks a lot like the quick connect water hose ends that you can buy. The male side of the disconnect is mounted through the top of the deck around mid blade length. There are three blades but only two of the wash out...

I don’t see that the filter screen has been cleaned (assuming that it has one). If it does have a screen (or some other filter) I would be sure they are clean or new.

As far as the gauges go, see if you can get to the wiring and connections behind the dash. I recall seeing threads about bad ground connections (probably a wire connection between panel and ground point) and bad corrosion between the panel and wire harness. You might search for dash corrosion...

Does he need the sensor serial number programmed into the ECU (or whatever the computer is called on the excavator)?

There is currently not a Kubota UDT2 fluid, it was replaced by the fully synthetic SUDT2. I believe that UDT is “crude oil“ base, SUDT was blend of crude/synthetic and SUDT2 is fully synthetic. So currently the Voraga UDT2 will (probably) not be the same as Kubota SUDT2 since Kubota UDT2 was...

It sounds like the problem is something in the wiring. So I would just see if you could isolate the glow plugs so they are disconnected after it starts or add some type of indicator light in that wiring so you would know if the glow plugs circuit is actually active when it should not be active...

Looking at the illustrated parts list at Kubota USA it shows two different part numbers depending upon the serial number of the tractor. See below. Then looking at Messick’s they show the TA040-30850 being obsolete and superseded by HTA00-30850 which shows a 6 pin connection.

Why don’t you just log in on the iPad? That is what I use every day and just stay logged in to OTT.

You can probably buy the wheel and its axle/adjustable rod. Take the deck and wheel assembly to a weld/fabrication shop and get them to fabricate and weld on the bracket to the deck. They will probably use the other side as a guide for the missing bracket.

On the ignition being locked… The times I have not been able to get the ignition key to turn on, it was due to the steering system putting too much pressure on the ignition switch for it to turn. I had to forcibly turn the steering wheel and get the key to move out of the lock position then...

@MN-B7100 since you are new here to send a PM (Private Message) you can click on the poster’s name (left side in orange text) and select “start conversation” at the bottom of a pop up window.

As I understand it you can NOT change the timing of the engine except by changing the position of gears under the front cover of the engine. That timing right or wrong by where the gears are placed when the chain is installed. Then you can change the timing of the injection pump (mechanical...

That is NOT the seal (as far as I know!). See post #4 that is probably closer to what it is. It looks like someone has taken the drive apart and put it together incorrectly. @North Idaho Wolfman will probably be along and give you a more definitive answer.

Could be a leaky fuel injector??? Leaks fuel as it sits so on start up there is excess fuel in the cylinder. That then burn off and clears up as it warms up and burns up the excess fuel. Then may cause misfires as it injects badly while running. But I would expect that to be black smoke.

Your local dealer can probably provide the correct hose by the foot.