Recent content by Russell King

That looks like a pretty straightforward hydraulic flow but a complex control system. Being a simple person I would start verifying where the pump actually creates a flow. So I would get to the delivery pipe end opposite the pump and see if you can get it disconnected and see if there is flow...

Uhhhh do you realize this is a zombie thread from 2017 that some “new member” dug up by commenting on it? The original poster hasn’t been seen here since late 2017.

I have to assume that the last statement should say you CAN’T get fluid out of the distribution block to the three point hitch. I know nothing about your tractor and only know that is large HP so looked at some illustrated parts lists. I could not locate a distribution block so please post...

The blade spindle assembly is a complete assembly that bolts to the mower deck. It contains the outer case, the shaft, bearings and seals and sometimes a pulley. They will remove the existing spindle assembly and replace it with a new assembly. You can ask them to provide you the old assembly...

I have one that went into the pour spout of the bucket. It screws onto the spout or into the spout opening. I can’t recall but it worked well and could be removed to reseal the bucket or left in but didn’t really seal the bucket. I haven’t used it much but it did pump fairly fast and cleanly...

The key needs to be in the ON position to supply voltage to the alternator for it to charge. I don’t know specifics on your tractor but that is the first CW position on my old L185 then the next positions are headlight on then bright. When in the on position, before the engine is running the...

You might look at the position of the three point hitch control. If it it trying to lift above the range of movement of three point arms then the pressure relief may be dumping all the fluid. I assume you would hear a squealing sound but that tractor may have a different type of valve and...

I would not drive a vehicle that has a gas leak. It is not really safe. I guess if I was desperate to get it home I might get a good CO2 fire extinguisher and know how to use it and then take that in the vehicle and drive it but that is not even safe. The pictures show that the sensor (oil...

Sounds like you have a problem with the charging and/or wiring. Was the battery dead when it wouldn’t crank? I would disconnect the headlight wiring at the switch and see if that helps the battery stay charged. I guess you could also just disconnect the negative battery cable to see if that...

Take these two parts to a machine shop and have them repair the hole diameter to match the pin size. You could also get a bushing to install into the handle hole.

In post #8 lower picture see part #10. It should be mounted onto a round shaft that sticks out of the tractor case. Spray that area where the shaft enters the case with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster or whatever you like but WD-40 is not the best option. Then try to wiggle the lever...

Your local dealer should be able to order them or order online from Messicks and pay a lot for shipping. I assume you mean these parts.

Is this the model where they extended the warranty for the emissions?

There is probably a bleed valve on the injection pump to get air out of the lines from the tank to the injection pump. It will probably look like a bolt screwed into a larger nut. Hold large nut and open bolt a couple of turns. There will be a hole in the side of the bolt that will let air...

Yes it sounds like a battery cable issue to me also. The starting place for that is to remove the ground cable at the battery, then the positive cable. Clean both the battery posts and the inside of the cable terminals. I would also try to find where the ground cable attaches to the truck...