Recent content by PoTreeBoy

I like your method. You got the right answer, but don't show multiplying 250' by 12 to get inches. Consistent units, you know :).

I'm not sure what the -D means. Be aware that these came with hydraulic shuttle and synchro shuttle transmissions. The hydraulic would be more desirable, but either would probably meet your needs. I'll be surprised if you get a good one with 2000 hours for $15k, but good luck.

That looks like a good combination. The MX series has always seemed like a good utility class tractor. There are lighter and cheaper implements available, but those seem reasonable for that machine. I bought an SGC1060 two years ago, paid $4,000. I've put it to good use lately, it would be a...

Thanks. I have at least one side stream coming in where that would be useful. I see a lot of rock work in my future. Unfortunately, rock is pretty expensive here.

Unless that Kawasaki is a diesel, two people on here have given you wrong advice. Sx for spark-ignition engines, gas Cx for compression-ignition engines, diesel The rest is your choice.

If you re-buy, in case the event is cancelled, you could lose a bundle on lost refunds.

Update: the county board of supervisors met Monday May 18. I attended, but discussion and approval of thie subdivision had been removed from the agenda, so I'll try to attend the June 1 meeting. I did go by the Natural Resource Conservation Service office and scheduled a site visit to address...

Assuming you meant the clutch won't disengage . . ., and assuming it has a conventional type clutch (these machines aren't very common around here) . . . The disk is probably rust-stuck to the plate or flywheel. 1. Figure out a way to hold the clutch pedal down (disengaged), 2. With the...

I understand on some models there's a place to stow them, but not on the L35. The BH makes good ballast though.

You may need to tighten or replace the belt. I wouldn't try turning that front pump, there are 2 fiber disc couplings that seem kind of fragile. You could remove the starter and pry the flywheel teeth, it'll be a slow go. If you're changing the belt anyway, you'll have to unbolt the couplings...

If you have the glow plugs or injectors out, it should turn over pretty easily. Maybe turn the fan, clockwise looking at it from the front.

You want it down, otherwise whatever's on the 3ph will rise as soon as you start the engine, creating a possible safety issue. When you park your tractor, you should lower all implements, front and back, so they don't drop due to inadvertently moving a control or due to normal settling.

Off the top of my head, those voltages sound a little low to me. The important thing, does it spin over or sound like it's struggling? Maybe you could record it cranking and post on youtube with a link?

Based on my cheap MTD experience * Run the engine/PTO at full rpm * Run high lift type blades. You need maximum air flow. Anything else that reduces airflow harms performance. * Control your travel speed so that the blades don't appreciably slow, due either to engine load or belt slippage. So...

I've used a LandPride 1884 (7') on an M7040 on mostly level ground. Unless the extra length of the 7' over the 6' is a problem, I agree with SDT. With the 7' you can run the rear wheels wider for better stability and still cut to the outside of the tire width.