Recent content by MtnViewRanch

Pictures and whose cylinders do you have? Do the following tests, it is best to have a base line to work from. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/cylindertest.html

Check the level setting with ALL of your implements. I doubt that it is the same for everything. Then choose a compromise that works. I have found that an 18"-26" length typically works well, but that may not be the case for your applications. :unsure:

Regarding the Kubota rear remote valves. Not all of them are unacceptable. It is a hit and miss type of deal. :( There are people that have what I consider an acceptable leakage rate (less than 1/4" per hour rod extension) and then there are those who have the cylinder rod fully extend on its...

I'm not saying to purchase this unit, but you will not find a better one anywhere IMO. Just giving you something to compare to. ;) https://www.everythingattachments.com/Heavy-Duty-Landscape-Rake-With-Hydraulic-Options-p/hd-ls-lsr.htm

Looks good, maybe let some air out of those rears though.

2" cylinder with a 1 1/4" dia rod is all you need. I have found that a working length of 20"-29" is ideal. Look at the following link, get the asked for dimension and find a cat 1 toplink that is close to the asked for dimension at the mid stroke position. This will provide you with an equal...

I suppose if you feel no need to ever be able to tilt your nimplements forward from basically level, then you will be all set with a 25" collapsed top link. I can say that I doubt that there is ever a "good" reason to extend an implement angled back so far as that the quick hitch would bind on...

Look at the following link. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html Based on the asked for dimension, find a unit that has close to the same amount of adjustment in each direction. I have found that a 20"-29" works well for your tractor model with the std 3pt hitch. Do you have Pat's...

I believe that he has the factory Kubota T&T set for his L6060. Either way, I doubt that he is going to find any DPOCV kits for his cylinders.

Something like what is pictured from Fit Rite works very well and the lever positioning is also very ergonomic IMO. No, it is not as aesthetically pleasing as the factory valve set, but the valves are without a doubt, better quality than the OEM units.

I think that the biggest difference with mine is that they get 1 1/2" dia rods, & better ball swivels. The top link has a 9" stroke, having a 20 1/4"-29 1/4"working length. Not a big difference in total adjustment from what you have. My side link has a 6" stroke for the side link with the...

I know that you don't seem to have any negative issues for what you do with your tractors. Neither do I, the relatively small amount that my units leak down is irrelevant to what I do with my tractors. (mostly grading) What if your valves leaked so bad that your cylinders were fully extended in...

Please read this. This is why you get T&T for your tractor. So that you can make 3pt adjustments without stopping and/or getting off of your tractor. Let's be real about this. In the real world the majority of 3pt adjustments that need to or should be made simply are not made when they have to...

I'm assuming that you have or will be getting a 2" dia cylinder? 1/4" hose by itself will not slow the cylinder. An .030 orifice flow restrictor works perfect I recommend 2, one for each end of the cylinder.

Well, let's see how this goes for the small M series tractors. :unsure: Each complete kit is built using 3" dia cylinders with 1 1/2" dia rods. 3/8" hoses with 1/2" male AG-type couplers. Built-in flow restrictors. The following is what you get in a complete T&T set shipped to you in the...