Recent content by MikeBerriman

  1. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    The block looks ok - but it looks like it's been on the way out for a while based on some of the wear. There is a lot of metal shavings all through the block. Which means that not only is the crankshaft busted, and the conrod bushings destroyed, but the cylinders, rings, pistons and crankshaft...
  2. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    Well, there's the problem...
  3. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    Finally (for today) here's a couple more pictures of the transmission and diff. Just because :)
  4. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    retiredlawnboy - that's a very generous offer and I may take you up on it. In the next little while (not sure how long due to Xmas) I'll be pulling the engine to inspect the bottom end to find out if the broken crankshaft has damaged other things. I will let you know how I get on.
  5. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    Well, we might be onto something here. My hood is 1140mm long (or ~45 inches). It's only a 5-6 inch difference from an L1501, but that's probably enough for one extra 3 inch cylinder. Doesn't look like there's much complicated about the front end attachment - looks kinda like 4-6 bolts and...
  6. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    Hi Alexisferos - or Daren Todd. If someone can measure the length of the hood on an L1501 we might be able to confirm Alexisferos' theory. It certainly sounds reasonable, particularly if everything back from the engine is the same
  7. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    Thats awesome, Wolfman. Can I ask how you determined the model number - I've been trying to determine a definitive answer for weeks now, but I couldn't figure out what numbers were definitive. I'll store that page up for when I split the tractor and get the motor out - then I can start...
  8. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    Ray - everyone hates a smartass :D No-one needed to hold a gun to my head - she was a beautiful little tractor, well looked after - much nicer than other similar ones I'd seen. Started and ran beautifully - right up until the day a few weeks ago that the crankshaft broke. I knew it was a bit...
  9. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    Thanks Daren, The serial number plate is really hard to read as it's been painted over with a thick paint, but I think I've chipped enough off to read that it's virtually identical to yours. L1501 12875 Z751 15 PSI 3000 rpm are the only English on the plate. The Japanese looks close to yours...
  10. M

    What do I need to know to repower my tractor

    I have a bit of a mongrel tractor. And it's got a broken crankshaft. Looks like my best option might be to repower with a new engine - problem is finding out what to use to fit it. The problem is 1) It's an L1501 from the transmission backwards (L1501 - S/N 12875) 2) The engine is a 3...
  11. M

    Engine problems - where to start looking

    Oh I wish, Shaun. I have so far been unable to source a crankshaft from anywhere in Australia. The $1400 I quoted was USD (from a parts store in the US), plus probably another $200 USD shipping over here. With exchange rates, that's about 2 grand in Aussie dollars. Then add another large...
  12. M

    Engine problems - where to start looking

    Sadly, dtbprc, a broken crankshaft is going to be neither quick nor cheap. Still trying to source a replacement part - they appear to be very scarce, particularly here in Australia.
  13. M

    Engine problems - where to start looking

    Ah crap. Apparently I have a broken crankshaft. The problem would seem to be finding a new one now. The engine has been replaced at some stage, from a 2 cylinder to a 3. There is a stamp on the side with 1115cc, which leads me to think it's a D1000, D1101 or D1102 variant. Many of the...
  14. M

    Engine problems - where to start looking

    Ok - been playing with it all day now. 1) Emptied coolant. Coolant is rusty, but otherwise good. I let it settle in a glass jar, and there is no oil. 2) Emptied oil. Oil is free of any coolant. Oil looks in good condition. However, there was a small piece of rubber, and a small piece of...
  15. M

    Engine problems - where to start looking

    I had the same thought, kubotasam. I have double checked the can it came out of, and it's definitely diesel. I'll double check when I get the fuel out of the tractor on the weekend