Recent content by lynnmor

Turn the engine till a valve is fully open and mark the crank pulley, then turn it one full turn and adjust that valve. Repeat for each one. I have seen too many mistakes by using manuals that describe adjusting several valves at one time, that instruction is to save time only.

It might be possible to open the crimps holding the top tank and then replace it. Talk to a radiator shop.

I think that you understand things quite well. The only thing I would add is to put in some kind of rust preventive.

But the union thugs kept their pension while the GM stock in my personal retirement account was lost.

If it was marketed as a gasoline container it would need to have the spill prone spout and no vent to make the goobermint happy.

You still have the cutting tool wrong, drop it down to the other angle.

Mount the cutting tool on the bottom angle of the holder. Set the compound to 29 or 29.5 degrees. Always return to the zero on the cross slide and advance the cuts on the compound. Until we know the TPI, engage the half nuts at the same number. Take light cuts, especially near the finish size.

You appear to be having too many problems lately, perhaps there is something going on with your health. Just throwing it out there and not trying to be a wise guy, I am simply concerned.

It has been quite quiet, my thought is that the boom time for the smaller tractors has cooled quite a bit. I don't know if folks are running low on money or if we have reached the saturation point.

Is it number 80 on this drawing: https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/kubota/bx2360/pump-motor-system/j31000-hydraulic-piston-lift-arm

The only trailer tire that I would buy is Goodyear Endurance. On those trailers that I can fit a truck tire, I use Goodyear Wrangler HT tires. Stay away from any and all China Bombs.

Looks like there are two 120's, one gets a knob with a washer and the other a bolt with a washer.

Drain the fuel and then try fresh gasoline from a clean can. Previous operator may have given you a problem.