Recent content by jyoutz

Until you drive over a branch and break the BX cooling fan. That design isn’t intended for woods work.

I would not want to do woods work with anything less than a L series

For your uses, I would strongly recommend at least an L series machine.

I I’ve been doing it this way for over 25 years. it works fine.

No need to modify anything. Use a rear blade and spin the moldboard around so the cutting edge faces the rear. Then drive forward and float the blade to move snow. The blade will glide over the gravel while moving snow.

Snow geese and cranes wintering in the Rio Grande valley in central New Mexico.

After summer rains

I have had excellent results with Harbor Freight Hercules tools. A five year warranty and they don’t give you the run around. If you say the tool does work, they look up your purchase date and tell you to go get another one off the shelf if less than 5 years. But I’ve seldom had anything fail.

Independent shops, no authorized dealers will work on equipment with altered emissions systems. This means no warranty service.

As much as your 3ph can lift. LOL. Heavier is always better when it comes to blades. Concrete blocks are way too light.

Most forests in the west are way overstocked with trees, small trees with little commercial value, so it costs a considerable amount to thin them. This has occurred due to late 1800/early 1900s heavy logging and suppression of the historical natural frequent fires that kept forests more open...

At that price, I suspect a scam.

I’m wondering why the front mounts are necessary. All of the canopies I’m familiar with just mount to the ROPS.

No it’s not. And resale value is also a factor that is often overlooked.

MPGs isn’t a personal opinion.