Recent content by GreensvilleJay

ignition switch or what ever's between the 'start' stud of the switch and the starter 'start' lug. On the BX23s there's a 'starter relay' that the switch controls. need to see your wiring diagram...might be different.

Not OCD, just 'cautious'. Yes, purge the cylinders and hoses. It's 'a few years old'...could be 'something' in the lines or cylinder, so better same than sorry. I'd remove the pin connecting ram to grapple BEFORE you 'purge'.

Maybe tie a small rope to it so you can use the rope to 'fish' or 'guide' the new one back ? Also tape up the ends so 'stuff' doesn't get in during the trip.

that's what I did, had 4 1957 Allis0Chalmers D-14s, made life easy. Also had a Gleaner A combine. Only had 1 acre at time ...sigh.....WHERE did 20 years go ???

curious... if #040, seal IS the weepy one, it's less than $10 CDN have to wonder why such a pricey repair.

agree, fuses blow ,when 'something' causes a short....so 1st step, get the WorkShop Manul (WSM) and study the electrical wiring diagram. 2nd, find out just what that fuse, 2nd one down on the left' supplies power to ! Can you recall when it happened, say bouncing up-down on the seat ? Maybe...

I looked at parts to see the style of tank... you might have something lodged in the exit spigot ?? happened to my BX23S @+-200 hrs. sliver of plastic lodged in the spigot. Removed tank ,remove the sliver, been fine for 1500+ hrs. Also added 'coffee filter' to neck of fuel tank.

could be 'junk' in the tank. ? when you replaced the 'tank' filter , did the diesel pour out of the tank ? ? is it ALL fresh fuel ?

fingers crossed, hopefully you're good. Add a mason jar coffee filter tot he tank filler neck. Best $10 addon you can buy !

I've no problem getting them 2F, 3F plows, subsoiler, rear blades. converted my 3PH to S as well, making life a LOT simpler and EASIER

used it yesterday for the 1st time, did in one hour, what took 3 of us ALL day , last year. waited until leaves dry and crispy. dang thing sure is noisy. might take 4 hours to finish,then have to put it away for a year.

Always nice to see a solution that works to make life easier !

3rd option, s to buy an older Allis-Chalmers tractor with 'Snap=Coupler' setup, that way all implements ARE 100% compatible and don't need 'top link' adjustments, even swapping between different tractors.

my guess, is that th egrub screw would lock the coupling onto the shaft at a 'specific in/ot' spot to align it with 'something, say 'flush' withe the blue piece ?

My BX23s had a similar 'rough running' problem around 200 hrs. Turned out a small, crescent shaped piece of black plastic lodged itself into the exit 'spigot of the tank. There was NO way to actually SEE it ( black plastic, in a small black plastic tube. No I didn't 'cheat' and blow air...