Recent content by GreensvilleJay

NIW is right , you need BOTH new hub and brake backing plate. probably '2000# axle' hubs. Easy tell, remove the hub and if the spindle ( axle...) is straight shaft (NOT tapered), it'll be 2000#. Look at the hub 'axle seal' for a part number, use google to see 'what it fits'. You'll have to fab...

curious, no battery warming blanket ??

I just use a properly sized bolt, drill 3/16" hole down the bolt head 'deep enough', 2 wires to DS unit,epoxy it in.wait a day to install.Never got into Arduinos...went with PICs during the 68HC11 debacle 4 decades ago. I like the KISS approach though I'd have to dig to find my stash of 741...

re: Part of me wants to change oil and filter prior to winter an then in spring This make no sense or cents to me. With maybe 30hrs on the current oil and filter , you want to replace them now AND again in Spring, when it's had ZERO hours of use ? Maybe I read the post worng so can someone...

I'll play the 'devil'... WHY did the deck 'rust out' ? Were you cutting wet grass and never cleaned it after use ? I've got similar aged 'Cub Cadet'(MTD) , original deck, solid. I cut grass in mid/later afternoon when it's dry and service blades 2x season. Also have a similar aged Craftsman...

Any chance you've got natgas or propane in your house ? If so, spend the few bucks and run a line to garage then buy any 80KBTU 'house ' furnace. I did that 30 years ago,best money I spent. NO problems or concerns of dieing from CO fumes from 'portable heaters'. I put the furnace in the 'annex'...

ahh there's NO fun in that !!!I'd replace the Kubota sensor with a DS18B20 temp sensor, feed into a PIC microcontroller and uses a 4x20 LCD display to show the temperature. Cost is maybe $20, take an evening to make, 20 minutes to program.

not really possible, LEDS ,being diodes, don't take kindly to 'reverse voltage' and poof, let out the 'magic smoke'. good LED lights( those with 2 wires) will have a diode bridge in them to prevent that from happening. Since most LED 'offroad' lights are good for '12-24' volts, the PCB of parts...

looking at the 2 links, I'll assume the skids are the same, made of UHMW with the trade name of TIVAR. The 'kit' is about $75 more, probably as it is a kit, everything in one package ? Of so,it's a lot cheaper to just buy the 3 parts you need.

You could add 100-250mfd caps in parallel at the LEDs. 'Flickering' could be the alternator 'noise' as it's not pure DC.

hmm, did the needle go back to 'cold' with the power off ? If so,gauge is OK. A 'super hot' reading indicates the sensor wire is shorted to ground. According to the diagram I grabbed, it's the typical +12v-->meter-->sensor--> ground setup. The owner/service manual should have a chart of sensor...

curious I downloaded the specs+parts lists. As for brakes, they probably use an 'off the shelf' spindles and hubs. Once you know that, just find matching brakedrum/hub and E-brake backing plates. Tires will not stick out and of course you'll need to create mounting brackets for the brake plates.

single axle trailers can be 'tricky' when disconnecting from tractor,when not enough 'tongue weight' is there and can fling the tongue upright PDQ ! You need to put the tongue jack down BEFORE disconnecting the tractor to be safe. A tandem tends to be 'better behaved' or 'more stable'.

tandem axle unit !!! wins hands down . As BAP says more stable, can disconnect and it NOT tip back. Agree brakes would be nice, can be added later( electric is easy..)

hmm, possible options 1) rent a chipper for a day. has to be cheaper than buying a chipper,storing it, etc. 2) make friends with an arborist. trade a space for him to dump a truck load of mulch in exchange for chipping your brush. 3) find a local who WANTS your brush to make his chips/mulch