Recent content by GreensvilleJay

Some just HAVE to have OEM parts for their rides, so THEY are willing to pay the 'price'. I prefer to shop around and get a deal. I have an $$$$ gas stovetop, 25 years old and the rubber 'feet' for the grilles are gone. OEM replacements are $6.45 EACH, need 8, about the size of the eraser on a...

junk in tanks.... it is 12 years old.... parking brake kinda on

I no longer give ANY info over the phone,too easy for the pro scammers to steal your identity. If anyone wants 'information' , I say 'Can meet at the local police station ?' In the op's case , everything IS on record somewhere, so get THEM to tell you WHAT record 'form' they're looking at. A lot...

re: fuel line removal.... I use a 'bent, forked screwdriver' used to remove plastic 'trim' plugs. You get behind the hose and PUSH it off the spigot. Some lefty-righty action helps.

8' section of heavy C-channel with tractor chains behind does a GREAT job for 'touch up' levelling. Late farmer did that to his 800' driveway for decades, never added any gravel.Only took a few passes every 2 weeks after church, for brunch......man it was a site to behold ! I get the impression...

yeah ,like a 50s' sicklebar cutter. big pulley on PTO, smaller on the 'head'. simpler, 'low tech' solution.....

adding to potree's post... use a 'mower deck right angled gear box 'whatever they're called. to connect to PTO shaft and another for the 'wippersnipper head'. Very SIMPLE, reliable, EASY . bodge in a 6:1 reducer 'backwards' and you get the 3000+- RPM you're looking for. PTO shaft-->1:6...

'buzzing pf the starter relay' indicates NOT a 'safety switch' problem. As TXJim points out,remove all battery cables,clean them very well, reattach, try again. a 'buzzing' relay indicates insufficent voltage getting to the coil. tries but fails,over and over again.

yuck...typical CAN of worms... according to the diagram the warning lights are controlled by a 'computer' that gets it's information from the dash panel computer that talks/listens to TWO other computers, the main and the engine. With CANbus there is no 'master' and 'slaves'. Any device can be...

WOW ! You get 2nd place though. MY A-C D-14 bell housing was JAMMED full of 'mouse house'. I'll try to find pictures of it but NOT for the faint of heart !!! FYI when splitting do NOT use cinder blocks !!! ONLY use solid wood. If you have an overhead I-beam, 2 trolleys and chain hoists make...

IF the LCD was working and displaying codes, at least it'd give the owner a 'hint' as to what might be wrong. From what's been posted on this forum, Kubota scanners are the ONLY ones that properly interface to Kubota ECUs, so paying 1-2-5K for an 'aftermarket' unit isn't a good idea. As NIW...

We've have lost 3-4 farmers from 'running sideways on 'little' hills' around here.

looks like 10(?) 'idiot' lights, direct drive from 'sensors' and an LCD for the 'hour' meter. I assume they use the hour meter display to show the error codes...???

have to ask WHY you want the rear blade on while mowing ? Also, check the front axle for oil ! yellow plug by left wheel...Most seem to find the axle LOW on oil.

I have to wonder how hot the oil is, as normally 'oil pan' heat released into the air but in the belly of a boat, it can't escape nearly as fast ? I'd expect to have 1 or 2 powerful fans to blow a LOT of air at the oil pan ?? An oil cooler would help both to cool and possibly reduce foaming.