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While it may be a 'PITA', I'd remove the tank and properly clean it. That way you KNOW there's NOTHING in the tank ! In my case a tiny sliver of black plastic found it's way into the exit 'spigot'. NO $$$ camera would have seen that, and 'back blowing' would only TEMPORARILY 'fixed' the problem.

It seems to be a 1/2" x 77" vbeltakak A75A or A75K, so any made with Aramid or Kevlar should be fine. One place has them for $10 US$ !!

curious... since they offer a cabbed version, I would think there's a power feed under the dash ? If so ,it'll have BLUE electrical around it ??

couple of huge 'red flags' to look out for 1) size and weight of trailer/load ! Your tractor only has 16HP (according to tractordata). so can't pull a lot of weight 2) MINIMAL brakes on your tractor, so basically NO BRAKES. That is a HUGE safety factor. 3 ) tipping ( 'dump' on this side of...

FYI.... BEFORE you 'cut and weld'.... measure the 'eye to eye' dimension ! While not 'mission critical', always best to weld new ones on as close as possible. Not all 'ends' are the same length.......

really 'old school', used in vineyards, is to direct steam to the bottom of the fencing. Guys mount a 'steam genny' onto tractor,point steam nozzle to the ground, then run the fence line. kills the weeds. since it's only water...NO 'poison' chemicals are used !

That groove is the 'weak' point of the 'shear bolt' and usually it'll be aligned with where the 'shaft' and 'coulping' meet. Suppose it makes it easier to replace, as one or both busted pieces will 'magically disappear'. All 'shear bolts' are regular bolts WITH the groove. You can make your...

simply cut off the old, weld on the new the be sure to grease them OFTEN.

possible option... once driveway is 'restored'... .... The late farmer across from me only ever used a steel bar with chains behind it, every Sunday after church and before brunch. it was the BEST gravel driveway in the county. It was 12-14' wide,so one pass house to road, then road to house...

1st issue the 'battery cables' . Both of those need to be replaced with nice,new molded ended ones. A LOT of 'electrical issues' magically disappear when the proper wiring is in place.... 2nd ,the 'box'. Yes for about $20 you can buy a PIC (I never got into Ardunios...), some 78L05s, LEDs...

Odds are good your F-150( > 1996) is already prewired for a brake controller. Look under the dash wher ethe OBD-II connector is, should be a black 4 pronged connector(red,whit,blue, ?? ) . Have you a 7 pronged trailer connector out back ? if not 'they' make a 'T-adapter', that connects to the...

no Hall sensor, just 1/2wave DC signal from alternator. All the 'signal conditioning' is done in the 'dash computer'. 'They' obviously know the pulley ratio and program the computer as required.

'close but no cigar' Tach is usually 'RPM' a number of Revolutions per Minute, wheras 'Frequency' is the number of transitions or 'cycles per second'. Some DMM will have FREQ , but to have 'TACH' they also have to have number of cylinders switch as well as 2S or 4 stroke switch and a 'divider'...

curious so checked, yes cable driven, so odds are cable is 'damaged', maybe from being kinked or bent too sharp. best to remove from tractor, remove 'core', inspect for ANY 'damage'.... If none, add a 'dry lube' to the core and reinstall.

don't have one but think mower number -bx23 or similar should be on the tag ? since you're in the USA, try to 'build a BX' and look at the deck options, should give you the deck models that'll fit.

I use red spraybombs of 'Rustcheck' for things that need sliding, like pallet forks and PTO shafts. It's not 'thick' like grrrrease but sure makes things move very well.

yes, sure sounds like the alternator is NOT sending the pulses to the cluster. If you have a DMM with 'tach' option, probe the 'tach' wire from the alternator.

re: There is no schematic for the controller. That is annoying. It would be nice to know exactly what's happening in there. It would also be nice if dealers could bench-test a $340 proprietary part, but people on the web say they can't. It'd be nice if 'someone' opened up the controller case...

1st thing I saw was that some lazy SOB needs to snag HIS palm on one of those cotter pins and NOT have a box of bandaids real handy !!! 2nd was a mighty 'cheap' design/build to NOT have greasable pivity things ! Gee, if 'they' cheaped out there , what does that say about the entire unit ? 3rd...

I've got 2 or 3 'tubes' of them here, industrial temp range.... still made, though cheaper to buy a PIC microcontroller !