Recent content by Firefight100

What you want is called a peristaltic pump. They are expensive but will do dosing like you want.

Does it have a front loader?

So to be accurate, here are the pressure specs for a 2203. For the Kubota V2203 diesel engine, the factory oil pressure specification is 7 psi (49 kPa) minimum at idle speed, and 43 to 64 psi (294 to 441 kPa) at rated full speed. The absolute minimum allowable limit at rated speed before...

use an electric linear actuator instead of hydraulics. Easier and cheaper

here's what I found on them....." The primary difference between the Kubota LA1301 and LA1301S (often referred to casually as the "S loader") is the bucket mounting system. The "S" designation stands for a skid-steer quick-attach (SSQA) style system, whereas the base model typically uses...

I had a 2650 that looks like yours. If you remove the loader and find the 3 point doesn't work, that screw with the snap ring in your 1st pic has to be turned when the loader is on or off the tractor.

you'll just have to take it off the old and mark the holes for the new tractor and drill them. As for the hydraulic block, try it first. you may get lucky and it fit. Everything thing will fit if you own a drill and a welder.

do you mean you reversed the neg and positive charger leads?

The engine control units are mounted on the vehicle, tractor, bobcat, ect. The engine would be good to go if you are replacing an engine in one of those. But to use as a standalone engine? You will be missing a ton of electronics and they are very expensive. You need to fine an engine that...

you will need all the ecu's and harnesses that go with it to run. Try to find an older engine wo electronic fuel injection. Normally less than 30 hp does not have emissions electronics. Also keep an eye out for a rv generator. They are usually cheap and the come in diesel versions also.

could be the operator present seat switch might have got bent, Check under your seat

check voltage at the starter while trying to engage the starter. Then work back towards the battery to find the bad connection. On both the positive and negative paths.

Cut your own out of a tire sidewall.

Oil level sufficient?

It sounds like you have a bearing bad on one of the transmission shafts internally. Hard to say which one. This would require splitting the tractor and disassembly of the trans to find the bad bearing. Will it grenade and take out the whole thing? Probably not. But it may get louder as time...